Teak Deck Removal

[Despacio]

Hi;
Someone sent me a message a month ago about removing teak decks. I was traveling and could not respond, and cannot find the message.

I think they asked the usual questions, so here's some answers:
I glassed the decks only to make sure none of the epoxy plugs ever leak. Water pools aft, so it would have been nice to have added enough glass to raise the level a bit. They said cloth I believe, I used only mat and epoxy resin.

There were many things that leaked in the aft cabin, deck fasteners, windows, scuppers, hawse holes, cap rails, eye brow screws, some screws holding the interior woodwork were too long and went all the way through into the teak deck, screws holding ladder, and the hatch. The port side door base had a leak into the hanging locker. Now, no more leaks. But that is always subject to change.

I had the boat painted, even though I have always been against painting fiberglass boats. I painted mine because it had been painted badly before, and that was the recommendation of the guy who glassed the decks. I now am more firmly in the camp where I would use that labor to remove the old paint, and I would NEVER paint what I had painted. Except the newly glassed decks, of course.

I learned a lot about teak decks, now when I'm on friend's boats I see all the problems they have but are unaware of. And you can't fix most of it.

If I can answer any questions, please ask.

[Shalamar]

It was me Shalamar that was asking about the teak decks. Thanks for the reply. I am about to lift my decks within the next month or so. As for leaks there are none at the moment but one developed at the front mid summer which I was able to stop. W hen I recaulked the decks I realized it was only a temporary fix as a lot of the boards have very little depth between them. I expect that the fiberglass encasing the plywood will be full of water and I intend on drilling a hole at the low spot to drain it. Any comments on this scheme would be appreciate.
I also expect the scuppers to be at least three eights of an inch (if not more) above the underlying glass so I intend on building up the deck height using nida core ( half inch). Anyone used this stuff before. I have not seen the product yet but a company in Tornto carries it and I will get a test sample to see how it works. I spoke with the manufacturer and he suggested that it be vacuum bagged for installation. Layer of mat then the core material then another layer of mat. ( the layer of mat and core go down together). I am a newbie at this so don't hold back on criticism, I have a thick skin.

[mike66]

Great discussion, as there are probably alot of us on the fence about how to deal with this. We bought our boat with no water damage, but then over our first winter, the aft cabin veneer was ruined in the forward end near the hanging locker and the head. I think the boat was blocked so that water collected forward of the scuppers and then froze, lifting the teak and getting into the boat. Now its down to recaulking or removing. Part of me likes the look and feel of wood, but as the guy who has to do the work, fixing it once and for all is sure appealing. If anybody out there has had success recaulking and stopping the leaks, it would be great to hear from you. By the way, Shalamar, your idea sounds good. Would it be easier to enlarge the scuppers downward than to build up the deck?

[Chester B]

We have a 36 DC that we purchased several years ago and it had the usual leaking around the windows and fairly bad leaking in the aft cabin. Last winter in FL we completely removed the teak decks and then cut off the top layer of fiberglass on the side decks by the aft windows where the scuppers are. Once we exposed the core (which in our case was made of 3/4" marine plywood cut into 8" squares) it was apparent the scuppers where a major cause of the leaking - you could pour water right into the aft cabin. Once the core dried out, I mixed up a batch of thickened epoxy, and rebedded the old piece of fiberglass back onto the core (and filled up all the gaps in the core) and then ground the scuppers lower to match the deck and fiberglassed and epoxied a new scupper hole, the old inserts went into the garbage. Ground out and reglassed the cut marks where we had removed the glass and primed with Awlgrip. We actually removed the glass from the stern towards the bow on both sides for about 5', lowered all the scuppers, redid the entire aft deck (there must have been a factory screwup because a 24x40" hatch had been molded in and then poorly covered up) and removed the glass behind the Samson post which had been leaking also (someone really put a lot of faith in caulking). So far it looks good, no sign of leaks, need to put final coat of Awlgrip and non-skid on the deck and rebed all the hardware. Should have a nice clean, water-tight and "cool on the feet" finish. And yes, I have rocks in my head; this is the second boat I've done like this.

[Shalamar]

Lower the scuppers or raise the deck? Here are my thoughts. When the teak is applied it gives a stiffness to the deck, now the question is did the designer think it was necessary? Lowering the scuppers is the easier way but I intend on adding the stiffness with the nidacore. I guess I am trying err on the conservative side. Just how much work I am getting into concerns me but I will make the final decision when I have the teak up.

[mike66]

Will you use the core to build up the height to roughly match the old teak? I could see that with the same configuration as the teak, ie; butted against the cabin and a channel on the outside about an inch or so wide. Or would you butt it against the outside edge along the bulwarks as well to make the deck completely flat? I've never fiberglassed, so don't know the pros and cons. Either way sounds better than deck leaks, although I am a sucker for the teak deck.

[jleonard]

A little off topic...but if someone is removing the teak decking, I would really appreciate some pieces of their decking that is still usable for patching should that be required.
Thanks in advance.

[Shalamar]

Will you use the core to build up the height to roughly match the old teak? I could see that with the same configuration as the teak, ie; butted against the cabin and a channel on the outside about an inch or so wide

Yes the core will replace the thickness of the teak and as for a channel on the outside, that would be a good idea under different circumstances but I need to raise the deck above the scuppers and a channel would hold up water. The teak and the scuppers are even right now.
I have had a few requests for the teak boards already but what ever is left over will be made available.

Maurice

[Captn_Dwt]

Hi Folks,
I've only been an owner for 1 year...but leaky teaky is already part of ownership. I feel that this topic should be rounded with the following thoughts (all based on the premise that the decks are in good condition and have enough thickness to warrant repair):
Teak decks and trim require re-sealing...just like any deck fitting needs re-bedding over the years. My 1980 has had the decks re-caulked once (about 2002) and that part is holding up fine. Now, with the wearing of the suface, the bungs are failing and the screws leak. It might be easy to think that re-bunging and sealing all those screws is not worth the trouble...but I found an article that convinced me to try this job. It's easy. I can do a couple dozen in just a bit over an hour. It's all about having the right tools. The biggest fault I'm finding is that the original screws were never installed with sealing compound. Therefore, leaky bungs = leaky screws. Seal both and the leaks stop. Really!
So what's my point?
removing the teak decks, to my view and some others, greatly de-values the boat. The myth that they will always leak is false...they just need the investment of good repair and proper care. Like all large projects, it looks daunting. Start at one end...work along...and quickly you will see it's very do-able. So what if it takes many small sessions to do it...when you're done, you've got lovely teak decks!

[Captn_Dwt]

Article attached on replacing bungs and screws.

[mike66]

Great post. I have been back and forth about which way to go. I think I'll try rehabbing what I have, and if it doesn't work out, no worse off than what I have now.

[jleonard]

Good article, nice detail.
I recaulked mine without a Fein tool. I have a Fein, but IMO it's easier with other tools.

[psneeld]

Hi Folks,
I've only been an owner for 1 year...but leaky teaky is already part of ownership. I feel that this topic should be rounded with the following thoughts (all based on the premise that the decks are in good condition and have enough thickness to warrant repair):
Teak decks and trim require re-sealing...just like any deck fitting needs re-bedding over the years. My 1980 has had the decks re-caulked once (about 2002) and that part is holding up fine. Now, with the wearing of the suface, the bungs are failing and the screws leak. It might be easy to think that re-bunging and sealing all those screws is not worth the trouble...but I found an article that convinced me to try this job. It's easy. I can do a couple dozen in just a bit over an hour. It's all about having the right tools. The biggest fault I'm finding is that the original screws were never installed with sealing compound. Therefore, leaky bungs = leaky screws. Seal both and the leaks stop. Really!
So what's my point?
removing the teak decks, to my view and some others, greatly de-values the boat. The myth that they will always leak is false...they just need the investment of good repair and proper care. Like all large projects, it looks daunting. Start at one end...work along...and quickly you will see it's very do-able. So what if it takes many small sessions to do it...when you're done, you've got lovely teak decks!

Some people think until the teak is gone the value of the boat continues to decrease...don't get me wrong...I love the look of a teak deck...but so many are so far gone...best if they are finally gone.

A new deck done right or an old deck maintained properly is a pretty sight...but again...so many are so far gone at least in spots...the cost of a redo is prohibitive in the big scheme of things.

[meridian]

When I bought mine this spring it already had Durabak applied over the teak. The teak shows through but it doesn't leak. I'm not concerned with looks, we are getting ready to do the Loop next year.

[mike66]

Okay,so what tools?