Barrier coat

[amber jj]

We just had the bottom of our 31TE soda blasted.Now does anyone have any suggestions of what and how to for a barrier coat and the anti fouling?WE are in fresh water.What should you coat and not coat?We have only had boats with I/O's before? Any suggestions would be appreciated?
Thankyou Bob

[Pitou]

I went through the process last year and here is a link to my experience. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3987

I did use the barrier coat as a primer for all metals and all of the bronze through hulls are still intact as well as the rudder and shoe coming from the skeg. The stainless trim tabs peeled in sheets. I do remember they were the last metals coated and the Inter-Protect was very specific in regard to time from being scuffed to first coat for adhesion. It looks like I pushed the time table and I know that I did. Shame on me. Otherwise everything else is perfection. Give a read on my previous post and shoot back any questions and I'll do my best to answer. Best of luck!

[amber jj]

Well Kevin I ordered 5 gallons of interprotect and a bunch or rollers and 2 gallons of Aqua Guard bottom paint.Val and I will get started this weekend if the weather will cooperate.We bought 2 gallons of white and 3 gallons of grey so we can alternate and keep things uniform.Same as with the bottom paint, also to tell how fast the paint is wearing off .
Thanks for the help Bob & Val

[DougSea]

Well Kevin I ordered 5 gallons of interprotect and a bunch or rollers and 2 gallons of Aqua Guard bottom paint.Val and I will get started this weekend if the weather will cooperate.We bought 2 gallons of white and 3 gallons of grey so we can alternate and keep things uniform.Same as with the bottom paint, also to tell how fast the paint is wearing off .
Thanks for the help Bob & Val

How did it go? I went through much the same process with our prior Albin and was very happy with the results.

[amber jj]

Doug it was a flop.It rained off and on all weekend and the weather turned quite cool (42degrees).I did find 2 spots around a couple through hull fittings that the gel coat was fractured and repaired them with West System and collidical sylica.It will probably take a day or two to cure in this weather.I was able to get most things masked,so it will not take long to get started when the weather breaks.I'm still working so I only have the weekends now to do the major items.Too bad the bottom wasn't cleaned when we got her home this winter as I had it in a heated shop until March.I have to work this Saturday and I am not sure about Sunday, as the forecast says cool weather and possible snow again this weekend.Once the bottoms done and a few small items to finish up we should be ready for the water.It's looking like the middle to the end of May now.

[amber jj]

Seeing as how I have not yet started to apply the barrier coat due to weather,work schedule,and the flu,and having too much time to read,and finding out about applying this Epiglass product first before the barrier coat.Is this really necessary?When I talked to the rep about the barrier coat he only mentioned the 2000E as long as the hull was not riddled with osmosis.The hull was in good shape other than a few chipped damaged spots on the bottom of the keel and the edge of the trim tab pockets.I hope I am not just worrying over nothing or is this a extra step I should take.Maybe it is just overkill.Also would one mask off the the through hull fittings and trim tabs and coat them with something else or just coat everything other than the shafts and props with the barrier coat?

[DougSea]

When I went throught this process it was just the 2000E, after I wiped it down with acetone to get the dust/dirt off. I believe I rolled over the thru hulls as well. Not the shaft/prop.

[amber jj]

Finally on Sunday I got my 1st. of the 5 coat series of 2000E barrier coat on. All went well until I had about 4 feet on the starboard side to go and I ran out of material.I had to mix a partial part of another gallon to finish.I must have got the ratio off a bit because by the time I finished the starboard bottom and the transom it was starting to set up in the tray.I was told that 1 gallon would do each coat,but obviously they were wrong .Maybe because the bottom was freshly blasted it just absorbed more on the initial coat.One other thing I used the small foam rollers (about 4"x1")but was surprised to use 11 of them on the 1 coat.I would be working with them just fine then all of a sudden they would go like a over stretched sock and in a few minutes just fall of the roller.At this rate of going I will need another 4 or 5 dozen refills.I like these rollers because I feel I can get into the nooks and crannies easier.Hopefully next weekend I might finish the barrier coat.I will post some pics soon.

[DougSea]

Hmmm, I don't recall having any issues with it setting up so quickly. Maybe something with your rollers? One thing to do would be to talk someone into helping you so you can paint faster. I did mine in the evenings so it was a bit cooler, which slows down the reaction.

I do remember that one gallon would do one coat on our 28. So I'm not surprised it's not enough to do a 31.

I'm sure you know this, but in case you don't - the first coat of bottom paint should go on when the last barrier coat is just dry enough to not stick to your finger when you press on it. This creates a very strong bond for the bottom paint. Sometimes it's referred to as being applied "hot".

Another suggestion is to use a different color (I used black) for the first coat of bottom paint and then your preferred color on top. One, you're assured of two solid coats with no misses, and two, you get a built in wear indicator which can save you a lot of time in seasons to follow. Touch up where you see the "signal coat" and you're done.

[amber jj]

The1st.gallon I mixed was fine(1 full gallon of base coat to 1quart of the hardener)Just the way it came in the box..It lasted the couple of hours it took to use it up.It was the next batch I mixed because I needed only about 3 parts of a quart.The unmixed 2000E without the hardener was so thick it was hard to get a exact measurement for the ratio of the hardener to be used. Yes it will be the last coat that will be crucial for the set up time before the bottom paint goes on.I don't think there is a time frame before the 2nd. coat of bottom paint goes on.

[DougSea]

You're correct, it's just the first coat of bottom paint that matters from a timing perspective.

[amber jj]

Well I got 3 more coats of the 2000E on this weekend,so that is number 4.Now I just have the last number 5 to do.This seems to be the crucial one before the 1st.coat antifouling paint goes on.It seems by the time I finish coating(2 1/2 to 3 hrs.) the bottom, the barrier paint where I started seems too dry to start the antifouling paint.You're supposed to be able to leave a thumb print in it without getting any paint on your thumb.I'm wondering if this will have to be a 2 person operation now or maybe the paint is still not cured enough so that I can still apply the antifouling.I'm using a water based latex AquaGuard.

[Pitou]

At this point I would enlist a 2nd abled body. This next step is critical and you would hate for all your efforts and time to be wasted. Different temps. and humidity levels will affect the cure time. I enlisted a friend for the final 2000E and first coat of bottom paint and it sure did take some pressure off the process.

[DougSea]

I'm with Kevin on this one. You've just invested a huge amount of time and effort and you don't want to go wrong on the last step!

[amber jj]

Well I finally finished the last coat of paint,5 coats of barriercoat and 3 of the anti fouling.Also while I was under it I cleaned out the dried caulking from around the prop shaft struts and recaulked with 4200.Finally I can stand again.