So this is my first post on the board, although I think I have read just about every post on it so far over the past 6 months Everything has been very helpful and much thanks go out to all of you.
I bought a 97 TE with the peninsular engine this past summer and have been working through a checklist of things from my inspections, the survey report and many of the posts from the board. The boat I purchased was kept in a fresh water river just up from the ocean for most of her life. As a result the mechanicals are in exceptionally good condition for their age. The trip home was about 17 hours and things ran reasonably well along the way. I have been through some of the usual things like patchy bottom paint stripping, wetsand/compound/polishing of the hull and general cleanup maintenance tasks since the fall. During the trip home, I noticed temps getting a little warm (and climbing above 160-170) after more than 1/2 hour at higher engine loads (75-80% wot) Slightly lower loads (65-70%) made this go away and temps stayed normal. The first 10 hours everything was fine at 65-70% wot in the gulf of maine and cape cod bay. As soon as I got about 1 mile from the northern entrance to the cape cod canal, the temp began to climb again so I had to back down to 50-60% wot to keep her cool. Just the water temp difference from north shore to south was able to cause this. The obvious here is that there was reduced cooling flow for some reason. I cleaned out the strainer which was a little clogged with barnacle shells and things improved slightly, but there is definitely more to the issue. Over the remainder of the season things slowly got worse again but I was always able to maintain 50-60% wot without warming up. I also noticed an increased amount of exhaust vapor from what is expected. (my best friend has had the same boat/year/engine since 2002 so I am more than familiar with things.) The two obvious problems are the heat exchanger, cooling lines (salt water side) and water pump impeller. Impeller will be changed in the spring and the heat exchanger will be taken off and cleaned. There is very reduced water flow now that she is on the hard which is probably the biggest cause of the issues with cooling. I can't even get antifreeze to pump up from the strainer right now. Quite likely impeller parts are all over the system. I have had to resort to pumping antifreeze into the salt water side of the cooling system. Will feeding this into the heat exchanger output (side by pencil zinc) be sufficient to get all lines treated? I have gotten enough in to go all the way back to the strainer and forward to the exhaust, but want to be sure. I am taking all lines apart to clean/check them but need to have the boat winterized and covered asap until the spring. Water pump, impeller, lines, exchanger are all on my early spring to do list but I need to get things protected for the next ~4 months of winter.
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28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
- redsky
- Swabby
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:33 am
- Home Port: Somerset MA
28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
1997 Albin TE Engine Box Peninsular
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
Change impeller first. I change mine every other season. I've been told to never start it on the hard (dry) as that will destroy an impeller in seconds.
Also, look around for a post from Katmak.
Here is a post I made when using Salt Away and vinegar.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4711&p=27888&hilit=salt+away#p27888
Here is more information from Matt at Peninsular when I questioned about high temps.
Also, look around for a post from Katmak.
Here is a post I made when using Salt Away and vinegar.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4711&p=27888&hilit=salt+away#p27888
Here is more information from Matt at Peninsular when I questioned about high temps.
The heat exchangers were and are oversized to take care of some eel grass some silica fouling etc.
The green anti-freeze with silicate really caused many engines to over heat and if the owner did not watch it the
engine would overheat and fail.Silicate would come out of suspension and attach to the inside tubes of the exchanger in a thin film and not allow good heat transfer to the sea water. Antifreeze replaced with silicate free "RED" Texaco long life.
Pentox a phosphoric acid will cut silicate' fall out' Muriatic acid does not touch silicate.
Sea water pump impeller what does it look like
Any blockage on the thru hull or sea cock or the sea strainer.
Any blockage on the exhaust elbow where the sea water dumps into the exhaust.
The sea water flow is close to 31 gallons per minute can be tested in 10 to 20 second flow rate with a large plastic drum.
Look at 2500 3000 and 3400 rpm for the flow rate. record .
If Pentox or another Phosphoric acid is use to clean the heat exchanger and or the the engine, The white remaining powder must be flushed at least three times with fresh water.
USE a infrared gun but be careful the readings will cause confusion as the castings are 10 degrees ?? cooler than the liquid and confusion with castings varying temperatures.
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
as far as winterizing via pumping I would pull the hoses off both sides of the raw water pump and pump the antifreeze with an external pump. At the outlet side of the raw water pump, pump the antifreeze unit it is ruining out of the exhaust. At the inlet side of the raw water pump, pump the antifreeze until it fills the strainer and runs out the through hull. Before winterizing I always pull the basket and wet vac out the strainer housing to get any sand etc out and then I wipe down the glass so it's nice and pretty pink when full of antifreeze.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- redsky
- Swabby
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:33 am
- Home Port: Somerset MA
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
So I spent a few hundred hours on redsky over the winter, but it appears to have solved all of my problems. No more heating issues. Likely the impeller was the biggest problem, then the cooling system flush, strainer basket and intake scoop which all contributed. Bad fuel filters may also have been restricting fuel and played a role in my speed numbers. Certainly the bottom condition did as well.
The previous owner had indicated that the impeller had been replaced last year but that was clearly not the case as it was missing 4 vanes. Fuel filters were also a disaster. I changed the primary and secondary fuel filters, water pump impeller, oil, and filter. In addition to that, I also :
stripped the bottom
put 4 coats of interlux 2000/2e
2+ coats of micron 66
completely stripped trim tabs, and all underwater bronze (intake scoop was particularly bad)
painted with zinc anti-fouling on all bronze, trilux on aluminum.
fixed strap on swim ladder (was probably hanging too low at some speeds)
serviced bow thruster and cleaned impeller to new condition.
wet sanded hull, compounded, polished waxed.
sanded off old name and put new decals on.
cleaned inside
added bluetooth capable radio.
cleaned and polished all fenders.
new pin striping
added glow plug timer upgrade. (tip: solder in connectors)
flushed cooling system. (found missing impeller vanes)
cleaned and sanitized all bilge and cabin compartments
washed and cleaned all inside cushions and rugs.
replaced sea strainer basket.
new stainless vents (actually connected them to the engine vent hoses this time)
Now I'm getting 20+ knots at cruise and 24-25 wide open into wind in 3 foot chop.
Some of the pictures are here and would be glad to make suggestions to others attempting a larger project like this to bring their boat back to life.
http://photobucket.com/albinredsky
The previous owner had indicated that the impeller had been replaced last year but that was clearly not the case as it was missing 4 vanes. Fuel filters were also a disaster. I changed the primary and secondary fuel filters, water pump impeller, oil, and filter. In addition to that, I also :
stripped the bottom
put 4 coats of interlux 2000/2e
2+ coats of micron 66
completely stripped trim tabs, and all underwater bronze (intake scoop was particularly bad)
painted with zinc anti-fouling on all bronze, trilux on aluminum.
fixed strap on swim ladder (was probably hanging too low at some speeds)
serviced bow thruster and cleaned impeller to new condition.
wet sanded hull, compounded, polished waxed.
sanded off old name and put new decals on.
cleaned inside
added bluetooth capable radio.
cleaned and polished all fenders.
new pin striping
added glow plug timer upgrade. (tip: solder in connectors)
flushed cooling system. (found missing impeller vanes)
cleaned and sanitized all bilge and cabin compartments
washed and cleaned all inside cushions and rugs.
replaced sea strainer basket.
new stainless vents (actually connected them to the engine vent hoses this time)
Now I'm getting 20+ knots at cruise and 24-25 wide open into wind in 3 foot chop.
Some of the pictures are here and would be glad to make suggestions to others attempting a larger project like this to bring their boat back to life.
http://photobucket.com/albinredsky
1997 Albin TE Engine Box Peninsular
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
Wet sanding made a big difference. You have been a busy man.
Looks great!
Looks great!
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:45 pm
- Home Port: Staten Island NY
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
If you experience more overheating issues Rydlyme might be a solution. She looks Beautiful you should be proud of your hard work. Enjoy. Bob
Bob 2001 28 TE box with 370 Cummins Alimarie3
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
Very nice story and pictures. Had me missing my 28!
Good luck with her.
Good luck with her.
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: 28 TE Peninsular - Cooling system
Nicely done. That looks like a fabulous piece of property where she sat while you worked on her..
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.