Cutlass bearing replacement on 31 TE single

[Old School]

This is the same question I have on a 28TE. Can I get enough play in the rudder and shaft after the tiller arm and packing are removed to slip the cutlass bearing housing off of the shaft? If not the boat is going to have to be lifted or a nice deep hole dug in the sand.

[RobS]

This is the same question I have on a 28TE. Can I get enough play in the rudder and shaft after the tiller arm and packing are removed to slip the cutlass bearing housing off of the shaft? If not the boat is going to have to be lifted or a nice deep hole dug in the sand.

No, you will have to seperate the tranny coupler and pull the shaft into the boat until you get enough clearance to remove the bearing housing.

[Pitou]

This is the same question I have on a 28TE. Can I get enough play in the rudder and shaft after the tiller arm and packing are removed to slip the cutlass bearing housing off of the shaft? If not the boat is going to have to be lifted or a nice deep hole dug in the sand.

No, you will have to seperate the tranny coupler and pull the shaft into the boat until you get enough clearance to remove the bearing housing.

Or drop the rudder and no need to seperate the tranny coupler. And while you're at it if you have any play ... replace the bearing in the shoe and repack the gland for the rudder post.

[RobS]

That is certainly another option but the engine aligment should be checked at the coupler periodically as well as the coupler bolts need to be kept serviceable..

Conclusion: I guess it depends what else needs more attention, your engine alignmment/coupler bolts or your rudder packing and shoe bearing

[Old School]

With the position the boat is in, dropping the rudder is the problem. Engine alignment was done recently but no one addressed the cutless bearing. DUH!!

I figure like this, lossen trans coupling, loosen cutlass bearing housing, remove housing, pull bolts from coupling, pull shaft forward, remove cutlass housing from shaft.

Though I will check coupling alignment I don't see any reason why it should be out of allignment.

Thoughts?

[RobS]

Sounds right on. As long as whoever did the alignment did it right and properly tightened the engine mount nuts and lock nuts it should still be within spec. Just have a couple feeler gauges on hand when you bolt the coupler back together and be sure it's less than 5 thousandths out, .003 is a good target. You will need to have the bearing pressed out and don't forget to drill out the water passages once the new one is pressed in.

[Old School]

Thanks Rob. Now the only question is... Do it in the cold in the fall or do it in the cold in the spring? Probably fall, because the prop shop has more time in the fall/winter.

[RobS]

Whenever possible I do all work sooner rather than later. It leaves a time cushion for the unknowns..

[Old School]

I removed the cutlass bearing and housing today. SURPRIZE!!!! Pulled the two bolts that hold the housing, removed the housing from the skeg,slid it down the shaft and off. Never had to move the shaft forward. I felt like I hit Lotto!!! The thing that I was sweating was the dripless packing which contans a "lip seal" and I wasn't to anxious to move that on the shaft. But as it worked out, I'm a happy camper.

Edit: BTW I'm working on a 2000 28TE