Mooring bit / bollard cleat installation on 28TE

[Pitou]

Has any one installed a mooing bit on bollard cleat or their 28TE? I am considering a mooring bit :

mooring bit.bmp

I would like to install this directly behind my windlass which would put the installation behind the anchor locker with a backing plate in the cabin up against the headliner. The concern is that the pressure of the backing plate pushing / stressing the headliner will rip the HL from the stress of the backing plate below. Any thoughts or has anyone done or considered this?

The other thought is to install the bit next to the windlass / slightly off centerline to port which given the amount of room on the pulpit this would position the arms of the bit running stem to stern as opposed to port to starboard.

The alternative to this is a cleat port side of the windlass which would alleviate the headliner issue as well:

bow cleat.jpg

I appreciate any thoughts, comments or hands on experience shared.

standing by ...

[jcollins]

Interesting picture.
Given the limited space we all have up there my thought is the cleat.

[RobS]

I have a sampson post but I do not have a windlass so its mounted right where the windlass would go. I do not think the headliner would be damaged. I recently fixed a few cabin leaks so I had my share of working with the headliner. It's tough stuff plus the pink insulation behind it is very then so there would only be minimal compression. It's nowhere near the cushiness of upholstery. A solid stainless plate with nice smooth edges would be fine..

[furball]

Kevin,
This is my setup. Windlass allows the sampson post to be mount just starboard of centerline which works well.

AOG-bridge.JPG

John

[Pitou]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I would like to keep the hardware up on the pulpit and will check out my available footprint once again. The picture of the Sampson post on Transition is a great help. My horizontal Horizon 500 by Lewmar takes up quite a bit of real estate ... sure do like the way your vertical really kicks off center ... I had no idea that set-up could work considering the shallow locker below.

The goal is to get the boat to track on the centerline when on the hook as opposed to tying the anchor rode off to the port or starboard cleat as I now do.

[RobS]

The goal is to get the boat to track on the centerline when on the hook as opposed to tying the anchor rode off to the port or starboard cleat as I now do.

Regardless of your tie off point, isn't the rode still out over the pulpit bow roller, aka center-line.

Here's my post, dead center, no windlass. I'm too young and strong to justify the expense

Here I was drying my anchor line and I lined the anchor locker with Dry Dek for better drainage..

[Pitou]

Regardless of your tie off point, isn't the rode still out over the pulpit bow roller, aka center-line.

Here's my post, dead center, no windlass. I'm too young and strong to justify the expense

... yes Rob, the rode/chain snubber does run over the pulpit roller & thru one chock, but still has a tendency to pull from the side with the rode often slipping up off the roller from the side pressure and then chafing on the stainless arms. Easy to keep an eye on during the day, but hard to do when down for the night. That is part of what is driving this project.

Young & strong, that you are. I prefer mechanical advantage.

... my rode consists of 100 ft. of 1/4" BBB chain and 180 ft. of 1/2" plait along with the chain snubber to take the pressure off the windlass when anchored only with chain.

For offshore fishing I use a seperate rope rode with a short length of chain & an anchor ball ... back to that mechanical advantage thing again.

[DougSea]

Sonny III had the cleat mounted on the pulpit as shown in your photo. If you're concerned with chaffing on the roller arms it should be easy to carry a section of canvas and some velcro straps to secure it.

You mentioned the vertical windlass - she also had one of these and I wouldn't fit another if I was replacing it. I often had issues with the short drop causing the rode to bind up. Others may have different experiences.

[RobS]

Wonder why the don't simply integrate a tie of point as part of the body of the windlass?

Maybe they want you to be lazy and leave the load on the windlass so that it fails prematurely and they get to sell you another one..

[Pitou]

Wonder why the don't simply integrate a tie of point as part of the body of the windlass?

Maybe they want you to be lazy and leave the load on the windlass so that it fails prematurely and they get to sell you another one..

I think you're right! I see most boaters just hanging off their windlass .... very few tying off ... a lot of stress on that gearing.

[RobS]

So many times I find myself having to re-engineer the obvious.

Well as a quick fix you can use the canvas like Doug mentioned above or a section of something like 1/2" rubber hose, without the wire reinforcement , sliced along it's length to slip over the line at the roller/bail.