Another Travelogue

[RicM]

Beaufort is a great little southern town with a lot of what a traveler needs. Last night we needed safety. The devastation caused by this storm front as it marched across Alabama and Mississippi should have earned it name status, akin to hurricanes and typhoons. We watched it for a day and half on the Sirrius weather service and on the various weather web sites without real appreciation of it's destructive legacy until we sat down in the Dock House bar last night to spend our "Wooden Nickels" and check up on Dianne Sawyer and the Royal Wedding on ABC. How do we live without these things? Easy I guess.

We got secure to the dock here Thursday about Noon as the wind continued to pick up. It was windy, 25-30 knts from the SSW all afternoon with lot's of threatening clouds but no rain other than occaisional spitting. We had a nice dinner at "Sharpies", a bistro styled place named after the Chesapeake sailboats used by the waterman to harvest oysters. Long, slim, flat bottom fore and aft rigs with sharp, plumb bows (Richard told me that). We seemed to be be blessed as the storm cells split into 2 groups and passed us, one to the SE and the other to the NW, but what a show! Continuous thunder and lightening that looked more like a pitched battle between artillery forces than a natural event!

This morning has dawned clear, calm and sunny, all traces of the violence of last night washed away. A short run of 40 miles today to just north of Oriental where we will anchor in front of the home of some old sailing friends of Richard's for a brief overnight visit and then the last push to Norfolk. Cousin Ron says this is the best part of the trip, I can't wait (call me back Ron).

One last word this morning about Captain Richard. Beyond his superb seamanship and manuvering skill, his hospitality, and all around good shipmateability is his tactical and strategic planning to time the weather and our location to be in the best possible position during what could have been a terrible storm last night. Discretion is the better part of valor. Richard has plenty of both.

[Tuxedo]

Last night was very peaceful for the most part. We spent the night in a cove just south of Fort LeJeunne .... That, and the anchoring dragging after the first set ....

That place is famous for bad holding, as well as deer flies, but is unfortunately about the only place to stop between Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort.

Your itinerary does not include a stop at Coinjock for prime rib? You might be missing a real opportunity for gluttony.

[RicM]

On a lighter note, we went back to the Dock House for breakfast on this beautiful, bright clear Friday morning

Beaufort Docks.jpg

and discovered "a bit of a royal wedding party" going on, complete with a real english lady! Yes! A bit of Merry Olde Englande" right here in Beaufort. In the picture you see the bartender, Don, trying to change the channel to the NASCAR standings on SpeedTV, but being overwhelmed by this classy dame and her 2 Aussie friends. He didn't have a chance.

RoyalWedding.jpg

My photo's of the bloodstained rug were seized by the local sheriff for evidence and will not be available until after the trial. Rest well Don, we barely knew ye.

[RicM]

A couple of posts, there is no ATT cell coverage in eastern NC to speak of.....
Friday
Medium trip from Beaufort to "Bonner Bay" at about mile marker 160, north of Oriental. Anchored up here in a very pleasant side channel-estuary to visit some old friends of Richard and Catherine from their cruising days. They met at the southern end of their sailing trip in Grenada. Lot's of catching up on the fate of other cruisers and an excellent meal on board as their beautiful new home is currently under renovation and without a kitchen.


Saturday, 3AM, a strange weather occurance. The night had been peaceful with barely a ripple when I was awakened by the sound of waves but no motion. A look out my porthole showed a rapidly reeling coastline with otherwise calm conditions. "No big deal" me thinks, "just a wind or tide shift." Then the wind started to pick up. The door of my stateroom opened by itself with a rather stately motion as if beckoning me to investigate, and clicked solidly into the doorstop as if by an unseen hand (cue creepy music). I decided to take a look up on deck and stepped into a wind that had to be 25-30knts! The water was still quite calm, but the wind was roaring! I stood there for no more than 2 minutes when the wind died suddenly, and all motion ceased! It was as if one small very angry gust of wind had been left behind by the storm Thursday night and was careening around the bay looking for it's brothers & sisters in a blind rage at being left out of the continuing party. I went back to my stateroom, closed and LATCHED the door and fell immediately back to sleep.

Our morning routine is comfortable and repeatable like all good things on a long voyage. Richard gets up and puts the coffee on and starts to prepare for engine start. This is my signal to get up and get busy and usually occurs about 7 AM. The engines are started and Richard runs the winch while I jog us forward and position the bow. With the anchor up, rinsed, and secured Richard takes over at the helm and I get us coffee. The first 45 minutes are devoted to a leisurely warming of the mighty 6/71's and the uptake of caffeine.
Below, the mighty 6/71's, AKA "The Hammers of Hell"

Hammers.jpg

With engines and brain cells up to speed, I go below and prepare breakfast.

The galley, complete with Viking Stove, dishwasher & granite counter tops.

Galley.jpg

Breakfast is eaten in the pilot house under full steam. Conversation and a review of the previous night's activities keeps us alert. Late morning I go aft and prepare my post for the day, today we are in the Alligator River Canal as I write this, around Mile 130, that's 130 NM from Norfolk. We are on track to make Norfolk in plenty of time for my flight, so all is pretty mellow. Weather is gorgeous today, cool and sunny. Eastern NC is a world forgotten by ATT wireless however, so no calls or posting until we get closer to civilization. It's Saturday though, so Nobody should be looking for me.

The master stateroom, and yes, Richard makes his bed like that every morning!

Master.jpg

There is danger on the Pungo River, and we have pictures to prove it!

Danger.jpg

Me at the helm Sunday afternoon, North Landing River, just south of the VA border. We should make Norfolk tonight....

Ric.jpg

[jcollins]

Ric,
As usual your commentary is excellant. I look forward to your updates and pictures of this beautiful boat. A Viking stove? Very classy. Keep me in the loop if the boat every comes north or if he needs another mate.

Thanks for posting,

John

[Legacy]

Looks like the engine room has the same space as the Albin! Hope you are dragging a line or two as you continue your journey.

[DougSea]

Check out those throttles and shifters! Very impressive! She must feel a bit like a ship. (And now I have to name my engines...they'll be jealous of the Hammers!)

I know you said you were departing at Norfolk, but is she staying there or transiting further north?

[kathylsails]

What a once in a lifetime experience! I wish we had been around when you docked in Beaufort.