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prop shaft drip
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:27 am
prop shaft drip
I noticed a slight liquid drip from the shaft on my 2006 28TE that is still on the hard. This boat has the Tides dripless shaftlog, so I did not expect fluid at the shaft itself. There was no noted color of the liquid but it had a slight lubricative feel. This was probably the non-toxic antifreeze (pink stuff) that I used for winterizing.
My question is whether I should have any liquid dripping from where I mentioned. This is not an active drip, and it only started when the prop was spun by hand. The prop turned easily. The boat is still shrink wrapped, so this could not be rain that drained into the bilge.
Any thoughts?
My question is whether I should have any liquid dripping from where I mentioned. This is not an active drip, and it only started when the prop was spun by hand. The prop turned easily. The boat is still shrink wrapped, so this could not be rain that drained into the bilge.
Any thoughts?
- Pitou
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2091
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:34 pm
- Home Port: Gloucester, MA
- Location: Essex, MA
Re: prop shaft drip
It sounds like you did a good job winterizing!
The way your dripless Tides shaft seal works is that it has a sea water pickup tube most likely comimg from the sea water side of your transmission cooler / this is where Albin often tied in for shaft cooling. The sea water enters the Tides shaft seal and cools the drive shaft / bearing in the stern tube and the sea water exits through a hole in the stern tube which is located on the starboard side .... right where you are seeing last falls decommissioning antifreeze dripping from. Nice to know a leak is not a leak.
The thing to be aware of is that if Albin grabbed a port from the transmission cooler ... they often took the anode out to steal sea water from the cooler for the shaft seal. Keep an eye on your transmission fluid to be sure it has not been compromised from corrossion, which at some point will occur if this is the case with your cooler. ...... another preventative PM project is to replace that cooler at some point.
The way your dripless Tides shaft seal works is that it has a sea water pickup tube most likely comimg from the sea water side of your transmission cooler / this is where Albin often tied in for shaft cooling. The sea water enters the Tides shaft seal and cools the drive shaft / bearing in the stern tube and the sea water exits through a hole in the stern tube which is located on the starboard side .... right where you are seeing last falls decommissioning antifreeze dripping from. Nice to know a leak is not a leak.
The thing to be aware of is that if Albin grabbed a port from the transmission cooler ... they often took the anode out to steal sea water from the cooler for the shaft seal. Keep an eye on your transmission fluid to be sure it has not been compromised from corrossion, which at some point will occur if this is the case with your cooler. ...... another preventative PM project is to replace that cooler at some point.
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: prop shaft drip
Kevin is right on regarding the drip source.
I started my boat on the hard a few weeks ago with a garden hose in the perko strainer and the person on the ground starting yelling to shut her down that I must have blew a hose as water was coming out of the bottom of the boat. It was just the water injection to the shaft seal running out of the cutlass bearing.
If you have the Yanmar the cooling water take-off point is most likely from a tee fitting installed between the heat exchanger and mixing elbow, not from the tranny cooler. Most yanmars were equipped with tranny coolers that had no zinc fitting so that was not an option as a connection point.
Here is the fitting: http://www.tidesmarine.com/fittings-t-fittings.shtml
Here is a picture of where it is located on my engine box model. This pic was taken during Rydlyme flush so some hoses are moved around..
I started my boat on the hard a few weeks ago with a garden hose in the perko strainer and the person on the ground starting yelling to shut her down that I must have blew a hose as water was coming out of the bottom of the boat. It was just the water injection to the shaft seal running out of the cutlass bearing.
If you have the Yanmar the cooling water take-off point is most likely from a tee fitting installed between the heat exchanger and mixing elbow, not from the tranny cooler. Most yanmars were equipped with tranny coolers that had no zinc fitting so that was not an option as a connection point.
Here is the fitting: http://www.tidesmarine.com/fittings-t-fittings.shtml
Here is a picture of where it is located on my engine box model. This pic was taken during Rydlyme flush so some hoses are moved around..
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:27 am
Re: prop shaft drip
Pitou and RobS: Thanks for the expert info re the drip from the shaft. It is good to know that there are owners such as you who know what makes our boats run right. I will check to see where the raw water comes from that flows thru the shaft seal. I will snug up hose clamps before launch time.
- Pitou
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2091
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:34 pm
- Home Port: Gloucester, MA
- Location: Essex, MA
Re: prop shaft drip
Thanks for jumping in on this Rob. The wheels are turning after going to the Tides Marine link for that T-fitting. I sure would like to put an anode in the tranny cooler as designed and pick the seawater up elsewhere for the cutlass bearing. I could do exactly as the Yanmar set-up, placing the "T" in between the heat exchanger and mixing elbow. Being a production boat, I guess it was cheaper for Albin to scab from the available port on my cooler than to use the "T".
I've been on this one since last summer when I met an Albin 28TE owner in Boothbay, Maine during our summer cruise. He had a Penninsular that had the same arrangement as my Cummins set-up and seawater eventually corroded his tranny cooler and seawater mixed with his tranny fluid. He was fortunate his tranny was not damaged and that things were caught early. He replaced his tranny cooler with one that had an extra port for his shaft seal while retaining a port for the anode.
How a thread can turn ... thanks for posting !
I've been on this one since last summer when I met an Albin 28TE owner in Boothbay, Maine during our summer cruise. He had a Penninsular that had the same arrangement as my Cummins set-up and seawater eventually corroded his tranny cooler and seawater mixed with his tranny fluid. He was fortunate his tranny was not damaged and that things were caught early. He replaced his tranny cooler with one that had an extra port for his shaft seal while retaining a port for the anode.
How a thread can turn ... thanks for posting !
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: prop shaft drip
If the cooler is rubber mounted and it's only "connections" being 4 rubber hoses (2 seawater and 2 hydraulic) will the zinc serve a purpose? My cooler is mounted via two metal bands that are rubber lined..
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- Pitou
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2091
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:34 pm
- Home Port: Gloucester, MA
- Location: Essex, MA
Re: prop shaft drip
The 4 hoses all have metal/brass maybe bronze threaded connectors attached that screw into the cooler. With dissimilar metals (hose connections & cooler) isn’t an anode designed to provide protection?RobS wrote:If the cooler is rubber mounted and it's only "connections" being 4 rubber hoses (2 seawater and 2 hydraulic) will the zinc serve a purpose? My cooler is mounted via two metal bands that are rubber lined..
Not sure if the metal bands are rubber lined or not.
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: prop shaft drip
Understood. My point was that it's not metallically connected to the electrical currents of the boat. It is, however, connected in some capacity via seawater that lays in the cooling loop. Here's a shot showing my rubber lined bands.
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- Pitou
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2091
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:34 pm
- Home Port: Gloucester, MA
- Location: Essex, MA
Re: prop shaft drip
My set-up looks similar, though I cannot remember the rubber lined bands. If that is the case ... I certainly have more comfort. Thanks for the clearer understanding.
Only being minimally connected through the seawater loop is exactly that, but he11 if I can add an anode ....
Only being minimally connected through the seawater loop is exactly that, but he11 if I can add an anode ....
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: prop shaft drip
Absolutely, there is certainly some galvanic/corrosive activity that would be combated.Pitou wrote:... but he11 if I can add an anode ....
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.