windlass??

[special k]

prepping the boat for launch an i discover the windlass not working. i hit the switch and it moves fractionally
less than an inch or two. after that not at all. test for power at the switch and breaker and all seems well.

now today i try the switch again and it works only for a second or two then nothing. my windlass is powerwinch brand with only helm switch control.

should i disassemble and try to repair motor? brushes? or just go for a new unit. boat is a 2002 and i suspect the windlass the same vintage.
this unit also does not seem to have any manual overide for retrieval or deployment so also a safety issue.

any input appreciated.

[zinbaad]

Clean & brush all wire contacts , especially in the anchor box then move on to the next step

[Pitou]

I second Ed's 1st step ... been there. The windlass control box in the anchor locker is always subject to moisture. Clean all the connections and then give it try. Hopefully you will have some luck. If that doesn't do it, I would strongly suspect the control box is suspect.

[special k]

looked for that however there is no control box on this unit, just two wires to the internal electrics.
i'll try disassembly, maybe junk inside.

thanks mk

[Pitou]

No control box .... You'll need to stick you head inside the anchor locker upside down looking back toward the cabin ... tucked way up against the foredeck. Get ready for the blood to rush to your head. Not much fun to work on.

What is the make and model of your windlass?

[special k]

thanks, i'll look right now, however i found wiring diagram online (powerwinch 36)
and no control box between switch and unit.

[special k]

surprised my melon fit into the locker.....control box no, headrush yes!

just two 12ga (??) wires to unit. going to try disassembly without removing windlass from deck as it is surface mount horizontal.....after cleaning connections at switch

[tbnolin]

Mine just didn't work...it was the relay. Works like a charm.

Tom

[special k]

removed the windlass from the boat and bench tested it. guess what, it works!. next will shorten the wires where shrink wrapped were and test for voltage. seems likely the circut problems were at the connectors. at least saves me the grand$ for a new unit.
maybe the underwater lights are still in the picture

[Pitou]

seems likely the circut problems were at the connectors. at least saves me the grand$ for a new unit.

Best of luck! Those are the fixes that we all like.

[Fogg~Dogg]

I have my 2002 original equipment windlass for my Albin 28 for sale. If interested, send me a message.

[special k]

seemed the problem was at the heat shrunk butt connectors. cut them out, lengthened the wires with four more butt connectors, shrunk and siliconed. should be good for a while.
still don't know why no control box on this model or the lewmar 700 i was considering.

[loubennett]

With the smaller windlass models a control relay is not necessary if you have only one control. They use a control switch that can take the full motor current and is performing the same function as the relay in the control box. If you decide to add a second control at the bow a control box is the best way to go. With a control box the wire size from the switch to the control box can be smaller and easier to run since the high motor current is handled by the relay and the switch only has to handle the energizing current for the relay. When I added a Lewmar V700 to Quest the installer tapped the power from the bow thruster power wires providing a large gauge wire path. This goes to a control box for the windlass. There are two controls. One is a switch at the helm. The other is a wired remote that plugs into a jack in the chain locker. There is also a storage bracket for the remote in the chain locker. The arrangement works well giving control of the windlass from the helm and from the foredeck for those times that the operation doesn't go as smoothly as it should.