Windlass for 28 TE

[Bigsteve51]

After having my Albin 28TE for the past 2 years it is time to install a Windlass so anchoring when fishing alone is not so hard anymore.

I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation on a Windlass that will not be a major installation project and is reliable for ever day use.

[loubennett]

I put a windlass on Quest shortly after buying her 2 years ago. I opted for the Lewmar V700. It's a verticle windlass with a low profile. They also have horizontal models in the same size range and one of them has a free fall capability to get the anchor down fast. That may be desirable for you for fishing. I'm not sure you can call the installation of any windlass a minor job. It requires significant holes cut in the deck and wiring for power and controls. For the power wiring, my installer tapped off the bow thruster power saving an additional run of large gauge wire from the battery to the bow. This seems reasonable since I can't see any reason to use the bow thruster and windlass at the same time. The power goes to a solenoid that controls the windlass and low current wiring goes back to the helm for the control. I also had a wired remote included so I had the ability to control the windlass from the foredeck. It plugs into a receptacle in the chain locker and has a bracket to leave it stowed there. The whole arrangement works well and avoids the foot switches that many have installed in the deck, which seem to be a common problem. I do most of my boating alone so control on the foredeck was important. It allows you to more easily clear any fouling that happens during operation without the need for a second person. The other thing to realize is that the gypsy must match the rope and chain in your anchor rode. The rope also must be spliced to the last link in the chain (no shackles). If you have to replace your rode, you may want to consider using one of the multi-brait lines designed specifically for use with a windlass. All the major rope manufacturers have a version. When it is fed to the chain locker it behaves more like chain resulting in less fouling problems. I have been using the three strand nylon plus chain anchor rode that was on the boat. The only problem I had was the first time I used it. I happened to anchor in fairly deep water (for the Chesapeake) and on retrieval it didn't feed smoothly into the chain locker. It seems the full length of the rode had never been used and until it has been stretched and wetted the three strand doesn't feed smoothly off the windlass into the chain locker, but I haven't had a problem since.

[OldDemps]

I just installed a Lewmar Horizon pro sport 550 where the previous windlass was stripped prior to me buying my 28TE. It was pretty easy. Lewmar give you the mounting template and my Albin, as I believe most Albins are already wired for the windlass even if you have no windlass from the factory.
Look near your water heater under the helm and if you see a medium size bundle of wires just terminated there, (Yellow, purple, green, a few others about 12 gauge) and again terminated on the Starboard side of your chain locker then those are them.

I chose the prosport 550 because is was the most economical option and if it dies in a few years which it seems most do regardless of price, then I'll just get another. It's fast enough for me but if you’re going to spends a LOT of time anchoring or need to be precisely over you secret fishing hole then go for the more expensive "free fall" models PF700 or PF1000.
http://www.lewmar.com/product-listing.a ... h&type=110

PS, make sure you wire in the included break and leave it open when not using the anchor. Don’t want to accidently way anchor under way or injury someone near the windlass. Photo attached but I had to custom make a larger keeper after switching to Delta Vs. claw anchor

[Capt Ron]

I gave up on using the windlass. When it was working someone had to babysit it as there was always a problem. I.E., rode coiling and jamming going out, rode coiling and jamming coming in, chain jamming coming in. I didn't have a plow anchor so someone had to kick the danforth off the pulpit. The windlass itself would slow down and stop working occasionally. I now either use muscles or an anchor ball.
The previous owner didn't secure the rode to a cleat when at anchor. He just relied on the friction of the gyspy and the motor gearing itself to hold the boat. I believe this contributed to the failure.
I would suggest two things if you do add the windlass. Add a cleat to tie the rode off when at anchor and add the deck switches forward. I am confident you'll have to attend to some problem forward eventually.

[craw_daddy]

OldDemps, it looks like you may need to increase the size of your anchor 'keeper' on your bow roller so your anchor will seat against the roller better..

[DougSea]

OldDemps, it looks like you may need to increase the size of your anchor 'keeper' on your bow roller so your anchor will seat against the roller better..

That looks to me like a 35lb. Bet she self-launches with no issues!

[OldDemps]

OldDemps, it looks like you may need to increase the size of your anchor 'keeper' on your bow roller so your anchor will seat against the roller better..

Yes I did switch to a larger keeper after this photo was taken. It was a custom fabrication piece after switching to the Delta style anchor with it's thicker shank.