How to remove doors?

[bccanucker]

We spent this past weekend out on the boat (Our thanksgiving weekend) and it was a blustery, rainy, rainy weekend. Lots of time to write up the winter to do list as we will now put the boat to bed for the winter.
I started doing a major revarnishing project in September and will continue it over the winter taking home as many pieces as I can.
Can anyone tell me how to remove the port and starboard doors? They dont seem to lift up and out and there is molding all the way around

[Despacio]

I have not done this yet, but need to because the rollers (if there were any) need replacing. I use a wax block to wax up the track to make my doors work smoothly.

I hope someone has the answer because I can't figure it out.

I have been able to do all the varnish without removing the doors.

[jleonard]

You have to remove the brass center track, then the outer teak track. Then the door will lift up and come out.

[jakevr]

on my 43 if i slide the doors all the way aft and lift up on the door the bottom can be pulled out and removed that way.

[bccanucker]

Jakevr-- Thought you had the answer but alas no. Doesn't work on my 36.
jleonard: The only metal I see is about a 1" wide silver runner in the bottom track. Door runs on it. Is that what you mean?

[jleonard]

The only metal I see is about a 1" wide silver runner in the bottom track. Door runs on it. Is that what you mean?

Mine is brass and 1/4 wide.
Might be the same function.

[westrivertrawler]

On the 36', the doors should lift up and pull out at the bottom. The door frame runners are usually a solid piece that have recesses cut in them for the track and just slide on a thin piece of 1" stainless. The top runner is recessed deeper, hence allowing you to lift up to clear the bottom edge. Over time, the wood "moves" slightly. What I have done in the past is to rig up a makeshift "spreader" using a small jack and a long sturdy piece of wood, cut to fit between top and bottom trim with jack in place, usually near the aft end of the door track. "Gently" stretch the outer edge of the opening enough to lift door up and pull out at the bottom. Reverse the proceedure to replace when ready. I was tempted to shave a little off the door, but decided I didn't want to tempt fate and and have the door come off too easy. They need to stay put in rough seas.
Hope this helps!

[bccanucker]

Here's some pictures. I kind of hope you're not right Tom. I can see me cracking the frame.

Blue Heron 032.jpg

Blue Heron 033.jpg

Blue Heron 034.jpg

[westrivertrawler]

Don't try my method on your port door. You probably will crack the frame. My method worked on the starboard door. I my port door popped right out. I no longer own my boat so I can't go investigate. Have you tried removing the stailness runner from underneath the door. Maybe it will drop enough to clear the top.

[Boatmon]

Probably too late to be of any help;

But we opened both doors to about the mid-way point and marked the lip on the bottom track. Then we took a router with a bottom bearing flush cut bit and cut a notch out of the track, this allows the doors to be removed by swinging the bottom out through this notch. You can then use a small pc or brass or stainelss with round head screws to fill in the removed area. This looks good and allows of easy removal in the future.

The Lass 1039.jpg

The Lass 1042.jpg

Sorry, these are unfortunately the only pics I have of this area right now.

[bccanucker]

No, haven't remove them yet. All the time has been taken refinishing the hatches, steering wheel, bridge stairs and 17 other projects.
You also got me started on this;-

http://www.blueheron-albin.blogspot.com/
which has taken some time
You mentioned this method to me in a PM and I'm having trouble envisioning the replacement of the teak you routered out.
I have decided to use my fein multimaster to cut out a piece of that trim so that there's very little damage to the piece and then screw it back on.

[bccanucker]

Just to update;- I did the above, worked great. Doors are now in Apache Junction, Arizona. Have stripped them both, new glass and tint, done coats of SeaFin Ship N Shore and SeaFin Teak Oil and today started doing a barrier coat of west System Epoxy. Plan to do 2 -3 coats of epoxy and then multiple coats of varnish

[Captn_Dwt]

Hi Folks,
Well, I'll chaulk this goof up to not knowing the list etiquete well enough.
I just posted my comments on door removal in the thread I started on leaking windshields. (someone asked about the doors...so I just...)

Having read this thread, I can tell you my doors did NOT lift-up...not any appreciable amount, and certainly not enough to enable the door to be removed. You can read my post in the other thread for the rest.

Sorry for the mis-placed comment...I'll do better!

[bccanucker]

For those that have been following my door removal and varnish stuff; I have updated the blog on
http://blueheron-albin.blogspot.com/201 ... heron.html
Go down to "SIDE DOORS 2010" and follow to now. Also go down to ANCHOR PULPIT to see its progression. We leave Arizona in 4 days heading home to install these items on the boat

IMG_2692.jpg

[mudskipper]

I was very pleased to see your blog of the varnishing, and caulking you did. I have the same basic boat. 1988 sundeck 40 trawler and the boats are very much similar. I currently have the port door in the basement . I am stripping it now. I have been advised to epoxy first then varnish. Do you thin the west epoxy or not? By the way the fore and aft hatches and picture are so close to mine it could have been the pictures we took in my basement 2 years ago! Good job I have used Epifanes varnish for years so I will probably stick with it. Do you have teak decks too? Jay Aquarius