Best micron rating for my racor 900ma filter/seperator

[fuenstock]

Hello,
I curently run a 30 micron filter element in my Racor 900ma fuel/water seperator. I've been told by some I should run a 2 micron element and told buy others that the 30 micron is best. Just wanting to see whats the normally used micron rating by others here. I have a 2006 Albin 28 with the 315 yanmar. Also would like to know the gph rating of the 2 micron filter element used in the racor 900ma fuel/seprator.
thanks all.

[jleonard]

The 30 micron will give you more capacity for "stuff" before it clogs. The gph ratings should be the same but they are based on a clean element. The 2 micron will clog faster for sure.
I used to run 2 micron in my primaries but quickly learned to go with a 30 or at most a 10 micron. If you pick up a bad load of fuel or end up in a rough sea that stirs up the tank yuck you may regret using a 2 micron in your primary.

[Chuck Waygood]

It's the old six of one and half dozen of the other. I picked up a bad load of fuel once and coupled with a turbulent passage was thankful for my 2 micron primary (Racor) filters when my engines began to struggle for fuel and I was quickly able to identify the clogged filters and easily change them. On the other hand, most secondary (engine) filters are 5 micron so logic says why put 2 micron ahead of them? Bowing to that argument, Since running out of the box of 2 micron Racors that I had bought at a discount, I have run 10 micron filters in my primaries without any problem. Just try and avoid the "stuff" and use either.

[sharffj]

Been told that 10microns is what to use in your Racor. 2 microns is too restrictive, and 30 lets too much through. Can't remember exactly where I read this, but my Yanmar mechanic reaffirmed this
Jeff S

[bccanucker]

On 2 different boats over the last 13 years I have been using 2 micron in my Racor primary and the secondary filter. The more you read you will probably find out there is no best and ne wrong answer. The techies at Passagemaker Magazine are sold on the 2 micron primary. The main agrument being as Chuck said that you dont want to be changing a secondary filter when the boat is bouncing around and the engine is hot. I have always dreaded the changing of the secondary even at the dock because they are usually in a bad place and having to prime the engine to get it back going never sounded like a fun thing. I've never had to prime the engine when just changing the primary

[furball]

I have run both 10 and 30 micron filters. First couple of changes after I bought the boat were 30 micron. Switched to 10 micron on advise from a mechanic . I noticed the the normally very accurate readings on my FloScan were different than before, mainly at low RPM. Read on the FloScan site that they recommend 30 micron primary filter as finer filters may cause inaccurate readings. I've switched back and the meter seems back on target. I plan to stick with 30's for awhile and see what happens.
John

[RobS]

All good info here. With 300hrs on her have you ever had a problem? If not, then just keep doing what you are doing..

[fuenstock]

All very good info. I have not had any trouble with the 30 micron I have been using.

[joreyn]

I had 2 micron filters in place when I bought our 36ET. They did clog rather rapidly, and that may have something to do with the fact that the boat sat unused for quite a while before the previous owner put her up for sale. I've now switched to 10 Micron on the recommendation of my Caterpillar technician. No problems so far. The flo-scan reads are accurate as all get out after the switch.

I also added Racor guages to the 900MAs. They basically screw in in place of the T-handle. I plan to run the current 10 micron filters until I start getting the hesitation problem, and then set the index line on the guage. That way, for future reference, I can replace the filters as they approach the point where they are clogging, but before they are actually clogged.