2000 Albin 28 TE - Refrigerator

[DJFARREN]

Hello,

In jUne I bought a 28 TE which has a Norcold Refrigerator which runs only on DC. I am told the ISOTHERM has a model that is duel AC/DC powered and will fit into the hole occupied by my Norcold.

Does anyone have info on this model or any other model which will fit?

[joe.baar]

Just be ABsolutely sure the new unit will fit through the companionway hatch BEFORE you buy it. The old one can be sawzalled in the saloon but the new one needs to get there first. Sorry, I haven't replaced my Norcold yet so have no advice about brands or models. Cheers.

[Joncat]

Dan
I replaced mine this summer, the old unit was the same as yours and finally died. I chosse a Norcold AC/Dc unit of the same size fuguring it would fit right in.....not so!
The design has changed over the years along with the shape of the unit, the new Norcold fits the opening but is slightly deeper and hits the inside bow curvature. I was able to cutout the opening approx 1.5" inches higher and mount the new unit a little higher on top of a 2x4 pressure treated frame. I bought a plastic vent at West Marine to fill in the bottom of the opening and provide more air flow.
I drilled a hole up through the compartments above the opening and fed the 110v cord up behind the microvave and used the recptacle for power.
The job took about 2 hours total time, let me know if you need anything else!
Good Luck,
John Mac
"Joncat"
1994 28 TE
Old Saybrook CT.

[jcollins]

Dan
I replaced mine this summer, the old unit was the same as yours and finally died. I chosse a Norcold AC/Dc unit of the same size fuguring it would fit right in.....not so!
The design has changed over the years along with the shape of the unit, the new Norcold fits the opening but is slightly deeper and hits the inside bow curvature. I was able to cutout the opening approx 1.5" inches higher and mount the new unit a little higher on top of a 2x4 pressure treated frame. I bought a plastic vent at West Marine to fill in the bottom of the opening and provide more air flow.
I drilled a hole up through the compartments above the opening and fed the 110v cord up behind the microvave and used the recptacle for power.
The job took about 2 hours total time, let me know if you need anything else!
Good Luck,
John Mac
"Joncat"
1994 28 TE
Old Saybrook CT.

I went through the same scenario. I tried another type of refrigerator that just didn't work out. I then called Domentic and ordered the replacement. It took us about 2 hours as well. Cutting the top of the opening was the only way to make it fit.

John

[Pitou]

I've been toying with replacing my Norcold DC only fridge with an AC/DC unit, but have been apprehensive of the swap. Glad to hear it is doable / getting the old out and new in through the companionway. With a strictly DC unit my house batteries cook on the charger 24/7 for six straight months, the duration of my short season. I sure would like to stop that practice.

Joncat .... wiring to the microwave outlet sounds like the way to go. Do you now just leave the DC fridge breaker on all the time and does the unit automatically switch over to AC when you are plugged in and the microwave breaker is on ? I'm just trying to understand how the AC/DC operates as you have it wired. Thanks in advance for any insight

[Pitou]

I've been toying with replacing my Norcold DC only fridge with an AC/DC unit, but have been apprehensive of the swap. Glad to hear it is doable / getting the old out and new in through the companionway. With a strictly DC unit my house batteries cook on the charger 24/7 for six straight months, the duration of my short season. I sure would like to stop that practice.

Joncat .... wiring to the microwave outlet sounds like the way to go. Do you now just leave the DC fridge breaker on all the time and does the unit automatically switch over to AC when you are plugged in and the microwave breaker is on ? I'm just trying to understand how the AC/DC operates as you have it wired. Thanks in advance for any insight

[Joncat]

Kevin,
I leave the breaker for the A/C plugs on and only turn on the D/C breaker for the refrigerator on when I unplug to get underway, just habit I guess. You could leave the D/C on, the unit should change over when you plug in.
John Mac
"Joncat"

[jcollins]

When I couldn't find an exact replacement I used one of the Avanti refrigerators as a temporary measure. http://www.avantiproducts.com/products/id/367
For the price it's a great product. Silent, cold, lightweight. No freezer, which I didn't want anyway. I probably could have made it fit but the installation would look kludgy at best. I was concerned about resale. Now it's in my office. Cold beer...I mean soda whenever I want it.

The replacement Dometic is DC0740. You will have to cut about 1-1/2 at the top. I also trimed about 1/8" on the side. It is nice not having the drain on the battery all week when I'm not there. I can now leave the charger off.

[DougSea]

I've been toying with replacing my Norcold DC only fridge with an AC/DC unit, but have been apprehensive of the swap. Glad to hear it is doable / getting the old out and new in through the companionway. With a strictly DC unit my house batteries cook on the charger 24/7 for six straight months, the duration of my short season. I sure would like to stop that practice.

This was my first season in a slip and I noticed my batteries seemed to have quite a bit less "kick" at the end of the season. I'm thinking you've just given me the reason. In my prior life of living on a mooring I got in the habit of leaving all my batteries on whenever I was in a slip to make sure they were all topped off. I didn't change that when I moved into one full time. Time to reevaluate that!

[Pitou]

I've been toying with replacing my Norcold DC only fridge with an AC/DC unit, but have been apprehensive of the swap. Glad to hear it is doable / getting the old out and new in through the companionway. With a strictly DC unit my house batteries cook on the charger 24/7 for six straight months, the duration of my short season. I sure would like to stop that practice.

This was my first season in a slip and I noticed my batteries seemed to have quite a bit less "kick" at the end of the season. I'm thinking you've just given me the reason. In my prior life of living on a mooring I got in the habit of leaving all my batteries on whenever I was in a slip to make sure they were all topped off. I didn't change that when I moved into one full time. Time to reevaluate that!

When connected to shore powere with a DC only fridge the battery charger is always kicking on to top off the batteries. You must be diligent in checking the water in your batteries / once a month should do. When I bought my boat at 2 seasons old I replaced the original house battery, a Group 27, which was very inadequate with a 4D Rolls battery that came with a pro-rating 7 year warranty. With the way that battery was worked I only got 4 good years and limped through a 5th. After the second season with the rolls I needed to add distilled water once per month. This past season I replaced the Rolls with 2 / 6 volt golf cart batteries and a new battery box. This new configuration actually gave me 20% more amp hours. I had a great worry free year and no water loss, but I'm sure as the batteries age that will change. In all honesty I will probably run my DC fridge until the day it dies. It's the yankee in me!

Here is a link to the Dyno battery box which have tighter outside dimensions than most boxes which made the use of boxes feasable in the small spaces available in the bilge my hull.
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productg ... s=&km=&sb=