Water Tanks!

[Despacio]

I have discovered that my starboard water tank has a very small leak.

I have seen a tiny bit of water in that area before, but thought it was from a deck or scupper leak, but after removing the teak decks and am sure I don't have any other source for that water, it's obvious where it's coming from.

I replaced the fuel tanks several years ago and made everything removable, so replacing the tank is possible, but I'm hoping that I can seal the tank from the inside and buy myself some time.

I read of using a product called "Microseal," which sounds like the right thing, but I'd like to hear from anyone who has tried any method or product.

Thanks
Marty

[jleonard]

Um what material is the tank?

[Despacio]

I thought they were steel as they cut fairly easy but they are stainless steel.

An email from the MicroSeal people:

Yes, they use Microseal sometimes for tanks(usually the welds) in boats that have developed leaks. It can be used on tanks for drinking water as the end product is non-toxic. You can find more information on http://www.microleak.com. The tank has to be reasonably clean but more important absolutely dry. Water will spoil the liquid sealant. Our product does not seal holes, but porosity. It would not bridge anything beyond a millimeter.

Microseal-AC and Microseal-MEK are basically the same thing, the solvents are respectively Acetone and Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Acetone is healthier to use so is the most popular. MEK dries a little slower but adds to smog and is not as healthy to use. You would need a painters mask When you pour some product into the tank you have to make sure you get some between the bevels. Maybe spraying with a long wand would be preferable. When using a compressor, make sure you have the compressor well away from the boat and don't have motors running or the like.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Hester

Since my tank only weeps very slightly when full, I would assume that the leak is as small as described in the email. Cleaning and drying it might change that.

The fuel tanks I removed didn't leak until I cleaned them.

Meanwhile I'll research all the options.

[Daryl]

I have seem problems with the welds on top of the tanks where the filler pipe connects. When the decks leak the welds corrode and the rest of the stainless tank is fine. Since you indicate your problems is only with full tanks I suspect you problem is up there. Not an easy place to inspect on some vessels.

[Despacio]

While you are correct, the usual problem with tanks is the top rusts for the reason you state, and I started my fuel tanks because the top of one rusted through, these tanks don't have that problem. The tops are fine.

I have no idea where the leak is, but I'm thinking it's at the bottom. The tank does not have to be full to leak, if it really has a leak.

I'm going to empty it, dry everything out and see if it stays dry, then refill it and see if the water returns.

If it does, the plan is either to cut an inspection opening in the top and see if I can see what's going on inside, or try sealing it first without cutting the top. Depends on what I learn before getting to that stage.

Anyone know if the water tanks have baffles?

[jleonard]

probably the same mild steel that the fuel tanks were made of. Probably the same material all of our original tanks were made from

No. Mine are stainless.

[lmustico]

Our 33 has bladder tanks on both sides. The port tank leaks when filled past half-way. Don't really use ships water that much anyhow. We have a filter at the dock for dock water and use mainly bottled water underway. Ships water only used for washing dishes and hands while out of port.
Providence
Albin 33
Georgetown, MD

[zinbaad]

You might just try simply using the tube of epoxy plumbing product you find in a local hardware store. Tube is about 8 " long and 1" round, 1/2 grey 1/2 white solid clay like material, knead as much as needed. . I have used it for everything from pools, kayaks, plumbing, reels drains & always keep a tube around like Duct tape, never leave home without it, lol. Some applications have held for decades,,, But of course some would say the right way was to cut out the take & replace it new.

[Despacio]

I cleaned both tanks with the bleach/vinegar treatment. There are things you don't want to know, and what's at the bottom of your water tanks is one of them. The good part is I have vastly increased water pressure.

The suspected starboard side leaker is empty and the port side is full. I pumped all the fuel to the starboard side but still am listing, so I'll buy 40 or so gallons of diesel tomorrow to level the boat. All the water on one side isn't going to work as a long term solution.

I found that the shut off valve at the bottom of the tank had been replaced, had no thread sealant on it and was only hand tight. I used some plumber's tape and replaced the valve, that might have been the leak, although it didn't look like it had been leaking. Then again it wasn't much of a leak. Maybe I got lucky.

I'm sticking to my plan to dry that area out, then fill the tank and see if it gets wet again. If it stays dry, end of project.

If not, in my near future is installing an access plate in the top of the tank. Cut out an area under the dinette, above the tank, in order to get a saber saw in there to cut an access hole in the top of the tank.

[Despacio]

Our 33 has bladder tanks on both sides. The port tank leaks when filled past half-way. Don't really use ships water that much anyhow. We have a filter at the dock for dock water and use mainly bottled water underway. Ships water only used for washing dishes and hands while out of port.
Providence
Albin 33
Georgetown, MD

Could you please provide me with any information on these bladders? How were they installed, how do they drain?

Thanks

[jleonard]

had no thread sealant on it and was only hand tight. I used some plumber's tape and replaced the valve, that might have been the leak, although it didn't look like it had been leaking. Then again it wasn't much of a leak. Maybe I got lucky.

We assemble thousands of pipe treads every day where I work. We make solenoid valves.
Loctite 242 will seal pipe threads even if they are barely hand tight. NEVER any leaks using 242.
We also use teflon tape and pre-sealed fittings per some customer demands. They often leak.

242 will not leak. Apply 1/2 way around the male thread acouple of threads above the start. Tighten to your liking. It will NOT leak.

[DougSea]

had no thread sealant on it and was only hand tight. I used some plumber's tape and replaced the valve, that might have been the leak, although it didn't look like it had been leaking. Then again it wasn't much of a leak. Maybe I got lucky.

We assemble thousands of pipe treads every day where I work. We make solenoid valves.
Loctite 242 will seal pipe threads even if they are barely hand tight. NEVER any leaks using 242.
We also use teflon tape and pre-sealed fittings per some customer demands. They often leak.

242 will not leak. Apply 1/2 way around the male thread acouple of threads above the start. Tighten to your liking. It will NOT leak.

Where does one find 242? I've had plenty of annoying leaks with Teflon tape.

[RobS]

Where does one find 242? I've had plenty of annoying leaks with Teflon tape.

Hardware stores, Walmart, auto parts stores. And you can probably get it at West for twice the price too

[jleonard]

You can also buy on the web at McMasterCarr.

[Despacio]

I found that someone had done a very poor repair by using a steel plate and Bondo. Didn't fix anything but directed the leaking water to where you couldn't see it. How much work was it to do that repair?

I have cut an access hole in the top of the tank, from under the dinette seat. The inside of the tank looks pretty good after cleaning. I believe Microseal will be a proper repair.

I'll make a steel plate to cover the hole.

Picture of plate someone had bonded to the corner, and the access hole.