AC on a 28

[mhanna]

Rob I see your post a few minutes after mine, but with all the pics you must have been working on it at the same time

With Rob posting many of the pics I think I will hold off unless anything else is needed.
Rick does bring up a good point about "blowing into a coke bottle" with the head door closed as it is fairly tight and not much air will come out. BUT I did test that out and while in the head with the door closed cool air does come out of the 2 inch vent. Not much but for me I just want to dehumidify the bathroom...
There is also the potential of freezing up the condenser, if too much humidity and not enough airflow get together it could freeze up. I have never been under the impression that the ac is to cool the berth area and the pilot house during the day (I think that worked out to be 14-16BTU). But I would like it to keep the pilot area dry during the eve if possible so my plan for the 9000 btu seemed ok.
Doug I see your concern for wanting to be "upstairs" and get some of the cooling also. I am not so sure how that is going to work though but your idea of an inline fan to suck air may work.
I only have a few hours on the Webastco so I cant say if its a long term unit but the controls work, it has a remote and it works in dehumid, cool and heat mode.

If you need anything just ask.

Matt

[DougSea]

Thanks again Matt.

I do have one quick question. Which pump did you use? Is it 12 or 120 volts? I'm also wondering if the 120 was already wired to the v berth, I know there's an AC breaker already in my panel.

I'll be doinging some serious surveying and measuring this weekend...since my helm is still ripped apart I'd better get that project wrapped up first!!

[RobS]

Went with a March pump, not the cheapest but was highly recommended.

Bought the pump locally but here is a link to it. http://www.starmarinedepot.com/March+Pu ... 3CPMD.html

It is 120V and my boat was pre-wired with two runs, one home run from the breaker panel to the forward V and another run from the forward V to the pump location under the starboard helm.

Here is a shot of the wires that were coiled in the forward V from the factory

0213000644.jpg

Looking forward to seeing your new helm and your A/C installation at Essex!

[DougSea]

Well a quick survey revealed NO 120v wiring in the thruster area. So now I'm going to have to backtrack and see if it's just tucked away further back.

How tight a fit is the new AC unit in that bilge space? If I can come up with a reasonable way to get to the pilothouse i've been thinking of moving up to 12k BTUs as it's just an incremental price increase. Unit is just a little larger.

[RobS]

Doug,
It's time for an AC install status report from you

[DougSea]

Doug,
It's time form an AC install status report from you

Well you know you and Matt set the bar awfully high with the photo's and the write up!!

But yes, I do owe an update. So here's a quick status report:

Knew that I wanted the capacity to cool both the cabin and the pilothouse. So based on your (which means both Rob and Matt) comments I knew the 9,000BTU unit was my minimum. Did consider the 12k. Also knew I wanted it in before my trip to the Hudson with crazy hot weather forecast. So I call Defender, no 9,000 BTU in stock. 12,000 IS. I now have a 12,000 BTU unit!

The descriptions and photo's you provided were invaluable in helping move this along. As I type this (on my iPad!!) I'm sitting in my cabin, cool as a cucumber! I owe you a full write up, and I'll try and do that this week as well as complete the venting to the pilothouse but I've delayed to long in saying THANK YOU to Rob and Matt!!

So, thanks guys!!

Cooly yours,

Doug

[RobS]

Well you're welcome. The "Thank You" 's were not the reason for my follow-up but glad we were able to help.

Good for you - nice job moving so quickly on that one. I guess with summer here there is no better motive to get it done pronto.

BTW, Do you like the iPad?

[DougSea]

BTW, Do you like the iPad?

I LOVE the iPad!!! AC comfort, iPad and a cold beer at Riverview Marina in Newburgh NY...I'm having a great night!!

p.s. I know you weren't looking for the Thank You, you want the good stuff, pics and a description of the install! But I really don't think I could have pulled this off like I did without you guys. You rock!!

[furball]

I like the idea of the fresh water flush tee but I have a question. How can I tell if the pump for my A/C can handle the pressure from my fresh water system, let water pass through, without damaging the pump? Installing before my pump and strainer would be much more convenient. I don't have unpressurized lines anywhere near this connection and putting the tee after the pump will make it difficult to access.
Thanks,
John

[RobS]

There is no pressure to speak of. The a/c seawater loop is an open system, the discharge flows freely out the thru-hull in the side of the hull. Only if you plugged the thru-hull would pressure build. A/C pumps are centrifugal pumps so they let water flow through, unlike the rubber impeller engine cooling water pump. The fresh water "T" connection needs to be on the pressure side of your domestic water. You use your domestic fresh water pump (or dockside water connection) to flush the a/c loop, not the a/c pump.

[furball]

Perfect,thanks for the quick reply
John

[DougSea]

There is no pressure to speak of. The a/c seawater loop is an open system, the discharge flows freely out the thru-hull in the side of the hull. Only if you plugged the thru-hull would pressure build. A/C pumps are centrifugal pumps so they let water flow through, unlike the rubber impeller engine cooling water pump. The fresh water "T" connection needs to be on the pressure side of your domestic water. You use your domestic fresh water pump (or dockside water connection) to flush the a/c loop, not the a/c pump.

With my brand new installation combined with my trip up the Hudson I was having trouble with the AC shutting down due to low flow. My best guess as to the source of the problem was grasses and leaves running down the river. The first few times I disconnected the raw water hose from the strainer and back-flushed the inlet and then reprised the AC, both by the "squeeze the dock hose in the hand on the fitting" method. Which means I got wet!

Getting quickly tired of this I wanted a better way. While I really liked the idea of the freshwater flush I felt an easier source of unlimited flushing would be the salt water wash down. Took me about an hour to plumb in two tees and a shutoff valve. With the thru-hull shut off I get a good purge/prime of the AC and then I open the thru-hull and clean that out. So far it's working really well. I'll try and post a picture shortly.

[RobS]

.... the "squeeze the dock hose in the hand on the fitting" method. Which means I got wet!

Never leave port without one!

garden hose shutoff.jpg

[furball]

Add a couple of these with different hose barb sizes and you can connect to any hose you have.
To clear mine line last time it "vapor locked", I disconnected the hose from the outflow from the pump and blew threw it! WOW!
I thought I gave myself an aneurysm but it worked. I don't want to do that again so the fresh water tee idea could really be described as a life saver.
Thanks,

John

[DougSea]

Here are a few shots of my handy repriming and flushing system...

The setup before the addition of the new fittings. Repurposed the head thru-hull. Line goes to the sea-strainer from the thru-hull. Learned the hard way that this MUST be tight against the top of the stringer and hence below the waterline. ALL of the components prior to the AC pump, including the pump and all hoses must be below the waterline or problems ensue...

Line exits the aft side of the strainer and down to the pump inlet on the bottom of the pump.

P7160068.JPG

Different "before" shot showing the pump - the red square thing. This is a March 500gph pump and the motor and electrical connections are completely encased in epoxy. It uses metallic "heat pipes" to transfer motor heat to the water being pumped. It is rated to be totally waterproof and submersable. And yes, it's a 120v pump.

P7160069.JPG

New T and valve. Turn on raw water washdown, open valve, you're primed and backflushing the inlet. Close valve, turn off washdown, and we're good to go!

P7160070.JPG

Just need to button up the install with some clamps to keep the raw water washdown line under control.