Algae-X

Post by **StockHR** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 8:14 pm

I've started to have to change my racor fuel filters almost every couple of weeks. I must have picked up some bad fuel during this season. Today at the Annapolis boat show I got to talk to the guys who sell the "Algae-X" fuel polishing system. I 've been looking into this system for the last couple of years and I think I'm going to put one on my 34 Albin. My question is has anyone on this forum installed one or have any opinion about this type of diesel fuel polishing system?

Thanks, Mike

Post by **jleonard** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:22 am

Everything I have read about Algea X (except from them) says this device is snake oil...that it can't really do anything.
But a good friend who I respect and who does his homework, put one on his old Mainship and said it worked great.
So now I'm torn.
If you install an Algea X let us know how it works.

pbirman · Post by **pbirman** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:04 am

I've installed the Algae-X fuel polishing system on my twin engine 33+3 express trawler. Basically it is a fine-mesh filter with a 150 gph fuel pump connected to a timer. I run it once a month for 8 hours to circulate the diesel fuel through a filter that is NOT in line to either of my engines. It collects the crud and can be back flushed 4-5 times before having to be replaced. The system also includes the magnetic centrifugal device and a fuel-additive that is supposed to inhibit algae growth. I don't really know whether the magnetic device is snake oil or not, but the pump and filter does work.

I lay up the boat for the summer in Florida and was plagued with a build up of "gunk" in the fuel system that clogged the Racors and the secondary filters. One time it was so bad that the starboard engine would not run above idle speed. Since installation, the in-line filters remain clear.

Paul

Post by **StockHR** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:11 am

I think the problem for most of us that basically use the boat for short weekend trips, is that the diesel starts to break down and return to it's natural tar like state. The goo particles float to the botoom of the tank and are stirred up when the boat moves. My tank being 18 years old must have quite a build up on the bottom. I've considered just having a company "clean" the fuel and tank but than down the road you could get bad fuel and have the problem all over again. The Algae-X system is not cheap at about $2000 but it's replacing injecters can be very expensive also. At least with Alge-X I could constantly polish the fuel. I'll let you know what I decide and how I make out. Thanks for the input.

Mike

pbirman · Post by **pbirman** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 11:35 am

That's absolutely correct. I paid several times to have the fuel in my Albin polished by outside companies ... one of which commented that it was the second most "dirty" fuel he'd encountered." At $500 -$600 a pop, the idea of a permanently installed fuel polisher made sense.

Paul

Post by **jleonard** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:17 am

I installed an electric pump into my boat and plumbed it so I can bypass the engine and polish fuel should the need arise.
It will utilize the regular Racor fuel filters that are already in the boat, but won't have that magical magnetic devise.

Post by **Veebyes2** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am

I agree that one of the worst things you can do to a boat is to just let it sit still.

Some years ago somebody bought a Grand Banks 32 in Fl where it had been sitting for years at the end of some quiet canal. He brought it to Bermuda on it's own bottom. Fortunately he brought lots of fuel filters with him since during the 5 day or so crossing he had to replace filters everyday from all the gunk that had settled at the bottom of the tank being stirred up from the ocean crossing. He got within 25 miles of Bermuda & ran out of filter & the engine would run no more. Lucky he got a boat out to him with filters & got started again.

12 years ago I took on a batch of bad fuel in a brand new boat. Managed to burn that off by triple dosing the Biobor additive.

These days the Biobor goes in with every fueling.

jcollins · Post by **jcollins** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:08 am

>>>These days the Biobor goes in with every fueling.<<<

Veebyes,
Is that a microbiocide? Is Biobor a brand name? I've been using a auto parts store product (can't remember the name) since recommended here.
Do you order online?

Thanks,

John

Post by **jleonard** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:58 pm

Biobor is available at West etc. It is a biocide, but I don't think it has lubricants according to the write up in Defender's catalog.
I used to use it, but I haven't had algea issues so I started using an autoparts store additive and most recently Marvel Mystery Oil as it is recomended for the Ford Lehman.

Post by **Mariner** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:39 pm

If your engine has a recirculating fuel system (as most do these days), a seperate fuel "polishing" system is ludicrous. You don't need it, unless your boat sits for a very very long time (years) without being run. The magnetic thing is stupid as well. Totally unecessary. Can't possibly do ANYTHING.

A better solution is to simply go down to the boat and run it from time to time. If it's out of the water, set up a system by which you can run your fuel through your existing filters without starting the engine.

If you're changing out filters every few weeks, you're either running your boat a LOT of hours, have VERY rusty tanks, or something else is wrong that is causing you to THINK your filters are clogged when in fact they are not.

jcollins · Post by **jcollins** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:49 pm

jleonard wrote:Biobor is available at West etc. It is a biocide, but I don't think it has lubricants according to the write up in Defender's catalog.
I used to use it, but I haven't had algea issues so I started using an autoparts store additive and most recently Marvel Mystery Oil as it is recomended for the Ford Lehman.

The previous owner of my boat told me that he used MMO in the fuel and the owner previous to him did. I have also been using it since I purchased.
There is debate however whether or not to use it in the crankcase. My dad used to put it in his car right before an oil change.
I have put a biocide in the tank a couple of times as suggested here when I was having starting problems. The problem was not related to fuel.

As far as replacing filters I agree with Mariner. I had new filters in the spring but have not changed them in the last 100 hrs.

Post by **SpaceCoaster** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:55 pm

I subscribe to Passagemaker Magazine and within the past couple of issues there was a good article on diesel fuel and tank inspection/cleaning. Recommended reading.

A previous engine surveyor of mine also spoke highly of MMO.

Jorge

Post by **jleonard** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:23 pm

If your engine has a recirculating fuel system (as most do these days), a seperate fuel "polishing" system is ludicrous. You don't need it

I agree. I had bad fuel in my last boat (old 34 Mainship) and when I repowered with a Cummins that circulated 45 gph, my fuel went from crap to pristine in about 10 engine hours. It always stayed that way.
But with my Albin and the 120 Lehman that circulates maybe 3 or 4 gph it's a different story.

pbirman · Post by **pbirman** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:38 pm

If your engine has a recirculating fuel system (as most do these days), a seperate fuel "polishing" system is ludicrous. You don't need it

The point of a separate polishing system is twofold.

one: The filter is OUTSIDE the engine loop so, any filter clogging, diminished fuel flow etc. does not affect engine operations.

two: The circulating pump can be run for hours unattended without having to start the engine. In a boat in long-term wet storage, this keeps the fuel filtration going while the engine(s) are not operational (water intakes closed).

Paul

Post by **StockHR** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:49 pm

As always fuel can be a lively topic. Thanks again for all the input. I have to add that this season I've used the boat more than ever before and in some very rough water on the Chesapeake. So I've probably really stirred up the goo at the bottom of the tank. Here's my plan; I am going to purchase a 12 volt 3 GPM gear transfer pump from Northan Electric for $149.99 and a Water block 15 micron filter set up for $24.00. This way for a total of about $185.00 I will build small portable diesel fuel polishing system. The same system and the exact pump sold by Algae-X for $869.00. Since I have an 8" access plate on top of the fuel tank I plan to use a 3/4 piece of PVC to reace the bottom where the goo is, transfer it throught the pump and filter and return it hopefully clean through a clear hose to the tank at a rate of about 200 gals an hour. I figure if I do that a few times a year my fuel will stay clean as will the filters.

Mike

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