Removing Teak decks- Experiences?

[Despacio]

I asked myself how much of my future I want to spend removing screws looking for that darn deck leak. I'd like to remove the teak.

I'm looking for anyone who has removed them from MOLDED FIBERGLASS decks. What did you find under them? Was it necessary to add fiberglass for strength?
I know there's already a thread on this subject, but the reply from someone who actually has done this couldn't be found there.

Thanks!

[jmatlaga]

Hi,I removed 90% of the deck on my 36 with a couple of flatbars.the core was so rotted most screws just pulled out or pulled through the teak (wich was thin and somewhat brittle).Under the teak was about 1/8 inch of glass.The core was over an inch of plywood with another layer of glass underneath.The deck would have been fine if they didn't screw the teak through the glass into the core.I replaced the ply core along with many supporting framework.I plan to finish the deck off with TEKDEK.Hope this helped.

[Despacio]

Yes, very helpful. That is just about what I'd expected to find. I have tested a few places it seems like my decks are 3/8 glass, then core, which is all teak plywood, then the closeout sheet(s) on the bottom.

I don't believe that all teak plywood is capable of rotting. I cut some 3" round plugs from the bottom and the plywood is good even where it was wet. I'm thinking of injecting as much west epoxy as needed after removing the wood.

Are you adding glass to the deck? Is it solid enough as is?

I am getting a quote on Tek Dec, but also am reading up on applying epoxy non skid on the Gougeon Brother's web site.

[Despacio]

What is supporting framework? Does your boat have deck beams?

[jmatlaga]

I used 3/4 exterior ply with 1/2 ply over that.That was cose to the thickness I removed.I glassed over that with 9oz cloth and West System.The ply is supported with beams about 20 inches on center radiating from the cabin to the hull.I couldn't believe how the deck "wicked" the moisture throughout,90% of the old deck was literally dripping wet when I ripped it out.

[Despacio]

I used 3/4 exterior ply with 1/2 ply over that.That was cose to the thickness I removed.I glassed over that with 9oz cloth and West System.The ply is supported with beams about 20 inches on center radiating from the cabin to the hull.I couldn't believe how the deck "wicked" the moisture throughout,90% of the old deck was literally dripping wet when I ripped it out.

You know that these boats started out with a fiberglass hull, with a deck and cabin built using wooden boat construction methods. They started out with a fiberglass hull, then wood deck beams, the deck covered in plywood, wood cabin structure, then some sort of finish, then the teak decks.

Later, they added layers of glass (late 70's?), then finally they went to a molded fiberglass deck and cabin.

"Plywood supported on 20 inch centers," is far different than what I have, which is molded fiberglass construction. No deck beams. First a fiberglass layup, then a wood core, then a close out sheet of glass under the deck. The core appears to be an all teak plywood. The teak should never rot, but the glue washes out. I'm thinking it can be re-glued with west epoxy where necessary.

I'm looking for what someone found when removing teak decks from a molded fiberglass deck.

There is a discussion in another place where they say added layers of glass are necessary, but this is probably different with the types of construction. I want to know before I start this project.

Thanks

[jakevr]

ive started removing mine this past weekend. my boat is a 1981 and I am not going to add any adtional layers of fiberglass. people argue back and forth on this subject and there is no structrual integerity with the teak planks on my boat.

[Despacio]

>>> I am not going to add any adtional layers of fiberglass. people argue back and forth on this subject and there is no structrual integerity with the teak planks on my boat.

If you look at the underside of the decks, do you have deck beams? I'd bet you don't. People argue back and forth because, from what I've seen, they are arguing apples and oranges. A molded fiberglass deck is far different from a wooden deck house mounted on a wood beam and plywood deck. Those boats have a lot of problems we shouldn't have.

I believe the molded fiberglass decks don't need additional glass for strength. I will be watching for new photos if you would be kind enough to post them.

I plan to finish mine off following the Gougeon Brothers (West epoxy) advice. Tape off areas, apply epoxy, cabosil, and color mixture with a notched trowel (1/4 thick) and roll it out with a stippled roller. Cheap, quick, and easy. Thought about that fake teak, Tek Dek, but I doubt I'll go that route.

Generic epoxy (same stuff, different name) can be purchased from Chrystaliner in Costa Mesa, California. A great place to buy all that stuff.

Every screw I've tried to remove came out fairly easy because my boat has stainless screws. My neighbor, who has a CHB 34, has bronze screws, and he just breaks the heads off. He has a wooden deck and a wooden cabin, and a lot of leaks.

I don't plan to leave any screws (and thus holes) in my decks if I decide to remove the teak. I'll be watching to see how you do before I make my decision.

Thanks!

[Despacio]

[quote="jakevr"]ive started removing mine this past weekend. my boat is a 1981 and I am not going to add any adtional layers of fiberglass. people argue back and forth on this subject and there is no structrual integerity with the teak planks on my boat.

On closer inspection of your photo, I can tell you have a one piece, molded fiberglass deck and cabin. How can I tell?

When they build a boat with the wood deck beam and plywood construction, the deck has a quarter round piece of trim, which fiberglass construction does not have. First photo is my boat, no quarter round, second is a neighbor's boat, notice the quarter round trim where the deck meets the cabin.

[jakevr]

i have a plywood core but no deck beams...

[jakevr]

Despacio, what size albin do you have? post photos of her

[jleonard]

Tape off areas, apply epoxy, cabosil, and color mixture with a notched trowel (1/4 thick) and roll it out with a stippled roller. Cheap, quick, and easy

So basically your plan is to roll on one coat of thickened epoxy as a "non skid" (like you would paint) and call it a day?

On a previous boat that had fiberglass decks I rolled on vinylester gelcoat with non skid and it was extremely durable...lasted 11 years. Then I re did the whole thing because I repaired a different section and the color had faded.
Epoxy should last at least that long maybe longer. Watch out for chips when you drop stuff, esp around the anchor area. That got mine a bit but it was easy to patch.

[jakevr]

jleonard, do you have any plans of removing the teak decks on you a40?

[jleonard]

jleonard, do you have any plans of removing the teak decks on you a40?

No. So far they do not leak, or if they do it's minimal. I did some re-caulking last summer. I'll finish this spring/summer. If the job lasts like it should I will leave the teak. I like them a lot and they are the best decks to walk on that I have experienced. They are rarely slippery, easy to keep clean, soft to walk on, etc.

[Despacio]

Despacio, what size albin do you have? post photos of her

Hi:
I have a 1978 Albin 33. All molded fiberglass with the teak plywood cored decks.