Winter Stuff

[jumpjet231]

I've read the section on winterizing which was very helpful however I have a couple questions. I tried to winterize the AC/Heat by removing the top of the strainer and pouring antifreeze in. However I got a little behind trying to keep it clean down there and lost the prime on the pump. Now it looks like I'll just use air when it goes on the hard. Will I lose the prime on the engine if I don't keep the strainer overflowing while I pour? Does anyone winterize the engine by another means?
I have a mixing elbow change/check to do this winter. What will be the $$damage?
Lastly, on my flush deck, I blew out an aft hatch lifter and wondered if anyone has replaced one. Albin installed them improperly by mounting the bases so close to the hinge. It is pushing more than lifting. Has anyone relocated their aft lifters away from the vertical plane of the hatch hinge?
Thanks,
Merry Xmas to all.

[zinbaad]

When I winterized the ac this year I filled the filter with anti freeze, removed the hose leading to pump and filled pump hose with ac running til it came out starboard thru hull.
Unfortunately had to cut off hose from filter. Plan on installing a "t" in the spring to make it easier to winterize without air locks

[Pitou]

I tried to winterize the AC/Heat by removing the top of the strainer and pouring antifreeze in. However I got a little behind trying to keep it clean down there and lost the prime on the pump. Now it looks like I'll just use air when it goes on the hard. Will I lose the prime on the engine if I don't keep the strainer overflowing while I pour? Does anyone winterize the engine by another means? I have a mixing elbow change/check to do this winter. What will be the $$damage?

The AC/Reverse cycle heat pump at times will lose it's prime. Just break the connection on the outflow side to get it back or the air hose will work. I'll offer another way to accomplish the task ... I purchased a ThoroFlush adapter that replaces the strainer cover with a cover that has a standard female hose connection on top. When winterizing the fresh or saltwater washdown connect a hose to the hosebib and the other end to the ThoroFlush and let the fresh or saltwater pump push the pink right through the AC/Reverse Cycle system .... voila 2 systems done with one action.

Not to worry about losing the prime on your engine, the impellar in the water pump is plenty strong to suck through the strainer and your thru-hull.

Sorry I can't lend any experience on the hatch lifters / I'm an engine box guy. From what I understand on the mixing elbow, don't reuse any gaskets where it attaches to the exhaust on the in-flow. Start fresh or things will most likely leak. I have only checked mine from the outflow side and so far so good ... 8 seasons.

[RobS]

Will I lose the prime on the engine if I don't keep the strainer overflowing while I pour? Does anyone winterize the engine by another means?

No worries there. Pouring it in is the way to ago. I recommend emptying out the strainer housing first as I noted in the thread titled Chiefs Winterization List. The other option is to remove the supply hose from the intake side of the cooling water pump and have a bucket of pink with a hose connected to the cooling water pump and suck the pink out of the bucket and through the engine. Then you must also empty the strainer housing.

I have a mixing elbow change/check to do this winter. What will be the $$damage?

You're looking at over $750 in parts: Mixing Elbow, V-Clamp & Crush Gasket. The gasket and clamp are no more than $50, the elbow is ridiculously expensive. I knew mine was due so I monitored eBay and found a new one I guy was selling since he was doing a 6LP repower and ended up having to get a mixing elbow custom fabricated. I ended up under $300 for the new elbow and the gasket and clamp.

[JackK]

I pulled tbe mixing elbow off mine this fall for inspection / replacement. It had a lot of surface rust on the outside but all of the jets looked like new so a quick sand blasting and a new coat of paint and back on she went. I spoke with Mack Boring just to be sure I wasn't missing something and was told if the jets weren't pitted and corroded it was good to go. I poked around with a pick to see if there were any weak areas and found none. The heat shield on the outside was pretty well corroded. I have a full machine shop at my disposal so we fabricated a new heat shield from Stainless steel to replace the rusted and pitted one.

I would suggest pulling the mixing valve and checking it out before ordering a new one. Like Rob said it's about a $750 job. I did buy new clamps to re-install the elbow and turbo because Albin had cut the screws too short to be re-used.

Jack

[jumpjet231]

I purchased a ThoroFlush adapter that replaces the strainer cover with a cover that has a standard female hose connection on top.

I read about those. Unfortunately I think they went out of business.

I poured it into the strainer with the engine running and it worked perfect. How do you all insure that the line from the thru hull to the strainer is empty? I would take that hose off but it's a bear since it's cold and inflexible. I blew out the AC/heater with my compressor and it seemed to empty a lot out of the thru hull. Hopefully the air method got it all.

[jcollins]

read about those. Unfortunately I think they went out of business.

Yes, they did. I have one on my strainer and it's great. I was looking around the web and came across Super Flush.
http://www.superflushsales.com/index.html

But, just opening the top of the strainer and pouring it in is really no big deal.

[RobS]

How do you all insure that the line from the thru hull to the strainer is empty?

I assume you pull(ed) the boat out of the water for the winter. Once she's out, open the seacock(s). Gravity should drain it out depending on your hose configuration. And a blow out with the air wouldn't hurt...

[Pitou]

John, you're right. Sorry about that. I just called the ThoroFlush phone number from my old receipt ..... "this number has been disconnected". The unit is is a bronze strainer cap with a threaded nipple screwed into it, a ball valve screwed to the nipple and a standard female hose end onto another nipple coming from the the the ball valve. I winterize in this manner to save a couple of gallons of winterizer.

As far as the engine intake hose to the strainer I do the same as Rob and just open the strainer when finished and lift the hose and let gravity do its work as best it can and leave the strainer open for the winter while on the hard. I also drain as much water as possible from all systems before adding the winterizer by drainig strainers (drain plug on the bottom), aftercooler, heat exchanger and muffler. This all helps to somewhat limit dilution of the winterizer ... (pink stuff).

[furball]

I have a small drill powered pump with 1/4" tube on intake side. Once the boats blocked and chocked, I slide the 1/4" tubing in the engine intake through-hull and pump the water out. I use the same pump to get the last of the water from the water tank.
The engine gets 6 gallons of -100 green antifreeze poured into the strainer. A/C and seawater wash down get the intake hoses removed and system pumps are used to pump through. I haven't drained the seawater strainers in the past but seems like a good idea. I'll add that to the list for the next trip down.
Good luck
John

[jumpjet231]

There is a low point from my thru hull to the strainer for the engine raw water. I went to the yard today and lifted the hose and a couple gallons came out. I used pressurized air to blow the rest out from the strainer to the thru hull. I'm putting in a "t" this winter at the thru hull to avoid this mess next year. Thanks for all the input.