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Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 6:39 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
Has anyone else had this problem: When I wash the boat down or when spray is splashed in the water goes into the hatch channels, which although have drains seem to drain very slowly & as a result puts water in the bildge. Sometimes when we have several tuna flopping around the blood gets into the bildge as well (this is not a good thing).
Has anyone had any luck making those drains work better?
Thanks in advance for your help.
TS
Has anyone had any luck making those drains work better?
Thanks in advance for your help.
TS
><{{{*>
- JackK
- Gold Member
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 8:14 am
- Home Port: Portsmouth, Rhode Island
- Location: Plainville, MA
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
By far you are not alone. Ask any of the TE owners who have a dog onboard and you'll get the same response ... always clogged.
I turned down some pvc on a lathe to make a plug for one of the drain holes. I plug one of the two connected holes and place a hose directly in the open one. Then I turn on the water and let the pressure drive the ball of dog hair / bait / assorted yucky stuff out the thru hull. If you don't plug the second hole, the water is never forced out the thru hull. It simply backs up to the point of least resistance, the other connected drain hole. Doing this around once a month has prevented the major clogs that took quite a bit of pressure to releve.
With two hurricanes coming close the last two weeks, I've checked them twice just to make sure they were clear for the storms.
Jack
I turned down some pvc on a lathe to make a plug for one of the drain holes. I plug one of the two connected holes and place a hose directly in the open one. Then I turn on the water and let the pressure drive the ball of dog hair / bait / assorted yucky stuff out the thru hull. If you don't plug the second hole, the water is never forced out the thru hull. It simply backs up to the point of least resistance, the other connected drain hole. Doing this around once a month has prevented the major clogs that took quite a bit of pressure to releve.
With two hurricanes coming close the last two weeks, I've checked them twice just to make sure they were clear for the storms.
Jack
former boat .. 2003 28 TE Flushdeck Dogonit
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
Ah yes. Having two goldens, I flush weekly.
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 544
- Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:28 pm
- Location: Mystic, CT
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
I removed the hatch over my fuel tank a couple of years ago and saw that the drain lines were not supported anywhere along the way. I attached zip ties and hooks all along the way for all the drains, that seemed to make a big difference for me. I also needed to rebed all the fittings while I was at it, they all leaked.
Former Owner of
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
- Cape Codder
- Gold Member
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:59 pm
- Location: Falmouth, MA - Cape Cod
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
Boy, oh, boy......no dog.... but I was also frustrated with my hatch drains.
Here's a few key points:
1. Port and starboard sides have two drains connected. If there is a plug, then both may overflow.
2. There are no drain supports, and the long lengths can sag, collect water and debris, and in northern climates, freeze and crack.
3. Very close to the transom, there are check valves, (a safety feature) that can (and do) collect debris, and easily clog. These should NOT be removed.
4. Because there are 2 drains connected, you MUST block one, to push water past debris, and check valves to blow lines clean,
5. Often ther are extreme angles near the transom, which causes the drain tubes to crack and leak into the bilge. The cracked tubes must be replaced or the problem persists.
Here is the remedy that has worked for me. (the order of the below procedures may vary)
1. Check for cracked leaking tubes
2. Replace all leaking drain tubes.
3. Sit down, have a beer, you deserve it.
4. Critical: Place a powerful shop vacuum on the OUTSIDE of the transom (yes, I know, this is a lot easier when the boat is on the hard)
5. Hold the shop vac hose to the outside drain, and have someone pour some detergent solution into the drains, then, while still vacuuming, hose with clean water until it dumps into vacuum with NO restrictions. Repeat is necessary. (One drain may need to be blocked with a rubber stopper to assist in increasing the negative pressure) Those lines AND CHECK VALVES will be CLEAN!!
6. If in the north, pour in antifreeze, ( to settle into the sagging ares) and cover the entire boat for the winter.
7. Repeat vacuum technique again before launching.
If you have electical power at a dock, this procedure CAN be done while the boat is in the water, (with two people) and the willlingness to get a little wet.
This really works.
Sit down, have another beer.
Here's a few key points:
1. Port and starboard sides have two drains connected. If there is a plug, then both may overflow.
2. There are no drain supports, and the long lengths can sag, collect water and debris, and in northern climates, freeze and crack.
3. Very close to the transom, there are check valves, (a safety feature) that can (and do) collect debris, and easily clog. These should NOT be removed.
4. Because there are 2 drains connected, you MUST block one, to push water past debris, and check valves to blow lines clean,
5. Often ther are extreme angles near the transom, which causes the drain tubes to crack and leak into the bilge. The cracked tubes must be replaced or the problem persists.
Here is the remedy that has worked for me. (the order of the below procedures may vary)
1. Check for cracked leaking tubes
2. Replace all leaking drain tubes.
3. Sit down, have a beer, you deserve it.
4. Critical: Place a powerful shop vacuum on the OUTSIDE of the transom (yes, I know, this is a lot easier when the boat is on the hard)
5. Hold the shop vac hose to the outside drain, and have someone pour some detergent solution into the drains, then, while still vacuuming, hose with clean water until it dumps into vacuum with NO restrictions. Repeat is necessary. (One drain may need to be blocked with a rubber stopper to assist in increasing the negative pressure) Those lines AND CHECK VALVES will be CLEAN!!
6. If in the north, pour in antifreeze, ( to settle into the sagging ares) and cover the entire boat for the winter.
7. Repeat vacuum technique again before launching.
If you have electical power at a dock, this procedure CAN be done while the boat is in the water, (with two people) and the willlingness to get a little wet.
This really works.
Sit down, have another beer.
Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
CapeCodder,
Thanks. I'll put this on my winter list. Especially the sit down and drink a beer part.
Thanks. I'll put this on my winter list. Especially the sit down and drink a beer part.
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
On that note, Feel free to use my attached pre-printed "To Do" formjcollins wrote:CapeCodder,
Thanks. I'll put this on my winter list. Especially the sit down and drink a beer part.
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 4:50 pm
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
I think number 10 should reflect numbers 1 and 6
"AHLUVOIL"
2001 28TE
Westbrook.CT
2001 28TE
Westbrook.CT
-
- Mate
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:17 pm
- Location: East Greeenwich, RI
Re: Slow hatch drains on my 28 TE
The locker drains on the TE 28 are terrible!
Home Depot carries circular screens that fit perfectly. Go to the bath section and you should find them they have a metal ring around them.
First I take the hose with nozzle and pressure the drains to wash them out. Then clean all the dirt out of the channels and put in the screens (they just sit over the holes if you stick your finger in you can mold them to the hole.
Once I did this I find I have very little water in the bilge from washdown or rain.
Also the drains in the stern that drain when underway collect algae, a half a cup of bleech fixes this problem after cleaning.
If anyone can't find the screens let me know and I will pick up some and send them to you - I think they were $2.50 each plus $25 for postage and handling (LOL).
Regards,
Hank Jonas
On-Rush
Home Depot carries circular screens that fit perfectly. Go to the bath section and you should find them they have a metal ring around them.
First I take the hose with nozzle and pressure the drains to wash them out. Then clean all the dirt out of the channels and put in the screens (they just sit over the holes if you stick your finger in you can mold them to the hole.
Once I did this I find I have very little water in the bilge from washdown or rain.
Also the drains in the stern that drain when underway collect algae, a half a cup of bleech fixes this problem after cleaning.
If anyone can't find the screens let me know and I will pick up some and send them to you - I think they were $2.50 each plus $25 for postage and handling (LOL).
Regards,
Hank Jonas
On-Rush