Dead engine too - Solved!

[jcollins]

Memorial day weekend has never been great for us but this one is killing me!

Friday - Removed the old secondary fuel filter, (Fram) poured diesel into the new filter and installed. Engine started right up. I let it run for about 10-15 minutes. Friday evening Sharon and I went out for about one hour. Engine ran fine.
Did not go out Saturday.

Sunday. Started and quit. Started and quit. After several times it started and ran rough for about 2 minutes then smoothed out. Fuel was at 1/2 and was last years so I decided to top off at Baltimore Yacht Club. Ran fine all the way over. About a 20 minute run at 2500 RPM. As I was coming up to the fuel pier it was idling rough. Took 61 gallons. Would not start after that. I tried several times, then called Boat U.S. for a tow.

Monday - I drained about one quart of fuel from the old primary (Racor) filter. There was no water, but there was a little black gunk that came out at first. Then it was clean. I removed the element, filled a new one with diesel and installed. There is also a priming button on the Racor. I pumped that a few times. No start.
The diesel I used for the filters was from the local gas station. (yellow) I assumed it wouldn't make any difference...correct?

Should I have replaced the primary filter first? It could be something else entirely.

Anyone have thoughts?

[Carl]

It sounds like you might have some air in the system.Yellow fuel is no different, just no die in it. Now that you have a new filter in the primary, I would go back and check/or replace the secondary. There should also be a primer/pump lever near your secondary filter or on your injector pump. I have the Yanmar, so I am not familiar with your set up. You might need to loosen a line or two to purge the air if there is any in the system. I would eliminate this possibility before calling in the experts. You might also try replacing that refridgerator!

[Denis]

It sounds like air in the system. You can replace the primary filter and use the primer pump to fill it and move the air along, but when you change the secondary filter, even if you fill it first the air is harder to remove. The manual says to loosen the fuel line coming out of the secondary and prime it that way. I found that I needed to do that procedure several times to get enough air out so the engine would run. Also, did you ever put in the glow plug timer by-pass? Once the engine is warmed up you need to manually turn on the glow plugs to start the engine.
Don't you just hate it that the engine was probably running just fine before you changed the filters, now after making it better and performing preventive maintenance the engine will not run. Just keep priming and running and the air will move on out. Make sure that you removed the gasket on the secondary filter before you spun on the new one. Just like an oil filter, sometimes the old gasket stays behind and messes things up. Denis

[RobS]

Agreed, sounds like air in the system as it sounds like no bleeding was completed. She was running fine before you did the filter swapping and, although possible, it is extremely unlikely that you have another problem that occurred at the same time. it's important to due the primary (Racor) first and then the secondary on the engine. This way anything that gets passed the Racor during the filter swap will not get into the new secondary filter. Most simple setups like the 28's have a 30 micron primary and a 2 micron secondary.

Is this your first time doing both filters yourself?

[jcollins]

Thanks for all the replies.

Is this your first time doing both filters yourself?

Yes, and most likely the last. I felt I should have the experience if I ever need to change while out of town.

I'll figure it out eventually.

Denis - Yes, I installed the new glow plug timer last year. Works great.

[jcollins]

You might also try replacing that refridgerator!

That's on the "list". At least I'll have cold beer when trying to start the engine!

[RobS]

and she's shiny too so you'll look good drinking your beer

[Denis]

It seems to me like you could put a bleeder like the one on the break system of a car just after the secondary filter and just purge the air out using the priming pump, but that sounds too logical. I actually avoided putting in a new secondary filter last year because of the trouble I had getting all the air out the last time. I only put on 30 hours all last year so I justified it in my mind that I really didn't need to replace it.

[RobS]

.... I only put on 30 hours all last year so I justified it in my mind that I really didn't need to replace it.

I'm pushing 200hrs on my secondary filter between last season and what I have put on this season thus far. So you should be good for another 5 years

I have the new one on the boat and plan to change it out next week.

[jcollins]

At what point do you know your o.k.? I ran the boat about 15 minutes after the change. Then, it started (roughly) the next day. I then ran almost one hour before taking on fuel. That's when it would not start back up.

What about Denis' idea of installed a bleed valve just after the secondary filter? Would that work?

Thanks

[RobS]

At what point do you know your o.k.? I ran the boat about 15 minutes after the change. Then, it started (roughly) the next day. I then ran almost one hour before taking on fuel. That's when it would not start back up.

What about Denis' idea of installed a bleed valve just after the secondary filter? Would that work?

Thanks

Air in the system as a direct result of the filter change-out should have been noted within a minute. The fact that you ran for sometime and then the problem worsened makes me think you have a small leak and introduced air into the system while it was running after the change-out. I would remove and reinstall both filters, checking orings, gaskets, proper tightening/torque, etc. Perform a thorough bleeding of the fuel system.

On the Yanmar the fuel pipe connection bolt is loosened and acts as the bleeder.

[Russell]

Did you shut off the fuel at the tank before changing the filters? If not you may have introduced and air bubble in the fuel line before it reaches the Racor filter and it could take more than a minute to reach the injectors.

[jcollins]

Air in the system as a direct result of the filter change-out should have been noted within a minute. The fact that you ran for sometime and then the problem worsened makes me think you have a small leak and introduced air into the system while it was running after the change-out. I would remove and reinstall both filters, checking orings, gaskets, proper tightening/torque, etc. Perform a thorough bleeding of the fuel system.

This comment from Rob got me thinking. I mentioned it to the mechanic. It turns out the seal behind the priming bulb was leaking. It was probably ready to go. When I changed the primary filter I pushed it several times. That must have finished it. We (they) replaced the Racor assembly which included a new bulb and it started.

Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.

[RobS]

See - you did nothing wrong, just an old part, now YOU can change out your filters for years to come. Diagnostics always starts with the obvious - you just changed the filters so it must be something related thereto.

It actually worked out okay for you as it certainly could have failed at a worse time and you got it fixed without missing the following weekend. Enjoy!

[Carl]

Does the fridge work now too?!?!