Barrier Coating and Rub Rail

[Jack28]

Has anyone barrier coated there bottom and do you think it is nessessary? I am going to paint the hull sides as the Jade Green gelcoat is chalking like most dark colors do, so I have removed the rub rail (it was leaking into the quater berth). Has anyone replaced the rub rail with a hard pvc? Also Albin calked the livin sh.... out of it and still it leaked.

[Jeff Lavallee]

Jack,
Keep us posted about the rub rail replacement. I may end up doing that to my 27 AC this summer. I was told it is kind of tough- need a warm day and alot of strength. Will you re- caulk as well??

[katmak]

Jack....the leaking into the qtr berth was prevalent in all Albins in Spore that ventured out into open water and had been traced to the following:

Water gets in from the following likely possibilities (not exhaustive)
1) Rub Rail
2) SS Guard rails self tapping screws, where they attach to the deck
3) 2 front drainage holes with their cowls, located on the bow, draining the anchor compartment. (Here i found water leaking into the front bilge collecting jus behind the courtesy light in the galley. The problem was traced to the port side anchor drainage hole where some delamination had allowed water to get in , travelling along the interior hull/deck joint before streaming into the bilge.

Wen Albin built the hulls in the late 1990's, we discovered that the joining of the deck to the Hull was done by using self taping screws. Albin did not appear to use any sealant wen taping these screws. Hence any water than managed to by pass the rub rail anywhere along its length, found its way into the bilge or quarter berth and behind the microwave galley compartment.

Solution which i applied:
1) Remove Rub Rail and reseal both top and bottom
2) Apply 5200 3M Sealant to all self tapping screws where possible. I had my interior paneling removed at the port qtr to apply these to all self tapping screws at the hull and deck joints from the bow to the port abeam.

hope this helps. Alot of work but it solved the irritating problem of a wet qtr berth in the corners!!

[Jack28]

As a stop gap mesure I calked the top of the rub rail this summer and it stoped the leak so I know that was the problem. Now that I have the rub rail off I can see where the leak occured. I'll post pictures. I replaced the rub rail on the 42' Bertram that I had, that was a job, as the rub rail was thru bolted to hold the shoebox joint of the hull to deck together. That rub rail was allumminum with a stainless band that was bleeding black all over the hull. I replaced it with pvc and stainless. I asked the guy out in CA that I bought the material from how he does the job and he said he pryed it out and cut the bolts with a sawzall, let the bolts fall where thay may and screw and 5200 the new one on. Did not seem like the way I wanted to do it, so I took the interior apart and thru bolted with 5200. Much better, I see there may be bolts under the rub rail on the Albin, so self tapers and 5200 may be fine. I would like to use pvc and stainless as it looks better than the rubber. Just need to experiment with bending around the transom. Any thoughts or sugestions would be great. JACK

[rt11002003]

Jeff,

Rub rail replacement for the Albin 27 AC was a hot topic not too long ago on the yahoo Albin site. Members provided a lot of good info and tips. You should check the archives there for details.

Barrier coats: over the past 20 years, or so, I've barrier coated at least six of my sailboats. Lake Lanier, in GA, seems to provide an excellent set of conditions for the growth (formation?) of osmosis blisters. My J Boats and my Lindenbergs never needed barrier coats, everything else did. With good preparation and application of the barrier coat (I used Interlux) I could go two years with no blisters and after the third year I would experience a small number of blisters about 1/4 inch in diameter.

I kept my Albin 27 AC on the TN River for a couple of years. When I bought the boat it had a few bubbles in the bottom paint, the result of way too many coats of paint. The hull didn't have any blisters. I had it repainted (after scraping the old paint off) with new bottom paint. I had no blister problems in the two years without any barrier coat.

I think osmosis blistering is a function of glass layup, materials used and the water/weather where a boat is kept.

Gene

[Bob Enzor]

Excuse this late reply but I'm happy to relate my experience regarding both A27 rub rail leaks and barrier coating as I undertook a major restoration of my '88 27FC last spring.

I elected to barrier coat my hull after a soda blasting removal of 20 years of accumulated anti-fouling bottom paint. (The old non-ablative epoxy-based type.) It must have reduced the boats weight by 200 lbs. When I got down to the gelcoat, I found it to be very porous (no blisters) but was the justification for the barrier coat. I think I used Pettit 2000 two-part epoxy mix. Suggest you mix small (quart) batches in warmer weather as it starts to set up quick. After multiple coats, you have a rock hard waterproof surface that takes paint very well.

Regarding the continuing saga of leaky A27 rub rails, I offer (without warranty) my ultimate
cure. (Anything suggesting another layer of sealant applied to only the surface of the hull-deck joint is only a Tempory remedy.) After removing the entire rub rail and plastic retainer channel, I proceeded to drill out all of the hull to deck flange joint rivets. (Drill off the rivet heats and drive the remainder of the rivet out with a drift pin. Proceed with this process in ten foot sections only for reasons I'll explain later.

Now, with no fasteners between the hull and deck joint, use a painters chisel scraper to dig out as much of the old caulk as possible. Then drive a 14" wonder bar" (a flat crow bar) to fully separate the hull/deck flange joint. Using the pry bar end as a lever, lift the deck flange upward to where you can then insert the tip of a large tube of 3M 5200. Apply the 5200 liberally between the now "separated" joint. NOTE: A CONTINIOUS BEAD IS IMPERATIVE!
After completing about a 10 ft section, re-align the joint, clamp with C-clamps 4'-0" O.C.
Drill new pilot holes to receive new rivets. I used 1/4" S/Steel and bought the best rivet gun I could find. (forget Lowes or Home Depot Types if using S/S rivets. Aluminium Is much easier to rivet but nothing beats S/Steel.

Next, cap/cover your latest accomplishment with the proper (NEW) plastic retainer u-channel that retains your rub rail. I ran a liberal bead of 3M 4200 down the inside of the u-channel and then pressed the channel w/(rubber mallet) over the hull to deck joint. Using 8 X 32/1 s/s round head screws with nylock nuts, I thru-bolted the plastic u channel 12"o.c.
Finally, pick a HOT day to let the sun heat your rub rail for much easier handling. Then secure new rub rail starting at a stern corner stretching as you go, and using rubber mallet to gently seat the rub rail into the channel. Apply C-Clamp about every 15 feet of installed rub rail or it will contract as it cools. (Visualize the rub rail as a huge rubber band.)
As you draw the remaining rub rail around to where you started, secure the running end with a temporary screw. Cut off remaining unused rub rail and then re-install the black fiberglass cover caps using proper length and diameter screws.

Important Note: This is a serious, time-consuming undertaking and is not recommended for the faint of heart or novices!

Good Luck and enjoy your dry interiors.

Bob Enzor
'''88-'08 27FC
Doreen Marie
St. Michaels, MD