Mooring buoys...need advice and knowledge

[jcollins]

I'm the guy last month that said I have never tried a mooring buoy. Well it seems I may be tied up with permits for months for my pier at our new place. Maybe even 2009. The MDE doesn't want to give it up. We have also decided to give up the shore shack.

So, has anyone installed their own? Is this a DIY project? I briefly looked at the Helix system and have read a little about mushroom anchors.
What do you guys have/use?

After installation I'll be asking for snagging tips. There was a thread around here about that. I'll search it out. I plan on finishing this by July 1st.

[Veebyes2]

Different areas have different needs & different regulations to meet.

In Bermuda moorings are installed by a commercial company after the owner has obtained the required permit.

A weight, such as a cylinder sleeve from a generation plant, a railroad wheel a counterweight from a forklift or such is used. A length of ship chain, such as found on tug or other small ship is attatched to the weight. riding chain, most likely double the water depth is attatched to the ship chain & floated with a round mooring bouy/fender, as seen on commercial boats. A nylon bridle gets attatched to the end of the riding chain.

[irishwake]

I installed a helix anchor system in 1994. I have had my boats tied to it during 5 hurricanes. It is the only way to go. The installation was very easy for my area (sand). Since I installed my unit 4 of my neighbors have done the same.Highly recommend them!

[irishwake]

I installed a helix anchor system in 1994. I have had my boats tied to it during 5 hurricanes. It is the only way to go. The installation was very easy for my area (sand). Since I installed my unit 4 of my neighbors have done the same.Highly recommend them!

[jcollins]

Thanks for the advice. It seems that Helix is the way to go. My bottom is muck/silt.
Irishwake - I know it's been years ago, but do you remember your cost?

As far as regulations This is Maryland. Very typical answers.
I checked out the county website, which took me to the State website, which says "no permit required". I then called DNR in Annapolis and asked if anything has changed since that publication. I was told no changes, no permit required.
Then I called MDE (Maryland Dept. of Environment) and was told "honey, this is Maryland". "You need a permit for anything."
MDE sent the forms. Nothing in all of the forms that mention permits for mooring bouys. There are some regulations but nothing that would affect me.

Here is an excerpt for the Maryland DNR website...

Permits

The State does not require a permit for single recreational mooring buoys. The federal government requires no permit either, granting permission under the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. However, a mooring buoy may bear ownership identification. We suggest using the state registration number, documentation number or vessel name.

Placement Restrictions

While there are no permits required for mooring buoys, there are restrictions on where you may place them. You may not place one in such a position that the arc of swing extends into a marked or unmarked channel, including navigational main channels as designated by the U.S. Coast Guard. Moorings also may not be placed in a manner that interferes with the operation of an access through any bridge.

Mooring buoys may not be established in the following areas:

Public shellfish beds;
Private shellfish beds, unless permission is obtained from the leaseholder;
Cable crossing areas;
Designated beach and swim areas in the Severn River; or in
Controlled ski areas in the Severn River.

[Cape Codder]

Here on Cape Cod, moorings are HIGHLY regulated by each town harbormaster.
In my harbor, it is soft mud/muck, and averages about 6-8 feet.
In this particular area it is mandatory to use a Dor-Mor mooring anchor.

The Dor-Mor is shaped like an upside down pyramid, with a huge eye welded on the top flat surface. This mooring immediately settles in with the pointed end dropping deep into the mud. They hold beautifully.

We then can have chain twice the depth of high tide, and then a blue striped mooring ball and specific size pennant accoring to the length of the boat.

For the 28 TE, it required a 400# Dor-Mor, 1/2 inch galvinized chain, bottom swivel, and 5/8 inch pennant.

I own all this tackle equipment, and pay a fee to the town (about $100) per year. In all 14 harbors in the Town of Falmouth, there are waiting lists for these moorings spots. People NEVER give them up.

Before the economy crashed, many boating retailers would sell you a boat, but couldn't guarantee you had a place to put it. Three years ago, it was rare to find an open slip anwhere, and mooring were on a several year, sometimes as long as 20 years!!!

Now there are many slips advertized, but according to regulations, you CANNOT lease your mooring to another boater, or you could lose your mooring privilege.

BTW, as far as the floating mooring balls, I highly recommend the Taylor-made mooring with the hollow tube running through the middle. This allows your chain and shackles to remain dry, and above the water so they down't get growth or corrosion. Much easier to maintain.

[irishwake]

I purchased it from Mooring Master by Suncor in Pembroke MA. 617-829-8899. I don't even know if they are still in business.I purchased the 7' twin helix that will hold 20000 lbs. At the time it cost me $185.00 plus shipping. We put it in with 2 pipe wrenches and scuba gear. About 1 hour work. I then added 30 feet of chain and had a special bridal made and that was it. I have had a 29 Phoenix ride it out through Erin and Opel, Erin was a direct hit. Also had a 26 Albin Getaway and 2, 28 Albins TA's ride it out through,Dennis,George. And last but not least my friends sail boat through Ivan.

[jcollins]

From what I've been reading the Helix is rated #1 and the Pyrimid #2. The mushroom and slabs of concrete are at the bottom of the list. I have read that they can drag in a storm.

CapeCodder - Have you had any break loose up your way? The Pyrimid seems easier since I don't scuba.

[Don from Mystic]

"When in Rome....." Friends in Maine use granite blocks, cut specifically for use as moorings, also sold by the pound - thats all the Harbormaster will allow there - I use a 500' mushroom which served a commercial dragger before me. I am well protected - back bay - a few hurricanes and never a problem - 350 Chevy blocks were popular here for small vessels but those days are gone thank goodness - Ive helped a couple neighbors deploy mushroom moorings - floated them out on blue floatation foam kegs (used for dock floats) and "bombs away" when over the X. Piece of cake on calm water. Ive also pulled one using a large inflatable ball bouy - took a few tides but worked fine- There are generally mooring services with barge and crane that will gladly do it if you have a permitted and gps'd spot.

[Cape Codder]

As far as the Dor-Mor's breaking free, I've heard nothing. But in 1991 when Hurricane Bob came through, the mushrooms failed all over the place. The harbormaster then doubled the weight requirements for the mushrooms. Later upon inspections every 3 years, the Dor-Mor's were supposedly set deeper and better, and the larger eye never failed.
Now, in some shallower harbors there is no choice but the mandatory Dor-Mor's.

When we used to use 250# mushrooms, we just tied it to a 13' Whaler and when we got to the spot, cut the rope!
Easy!

[Mariner]

The norm here is to take a garbage can down to the beach at low tide and fill it with cement. Then imbed a length of stainless steel cable with several loops coming out of the top and some bundled up at the bottom of the can. That way, if one breaks, you can re-attach to another. It's best to attach the chain directly to the cable before you imbed it, so that there's no hardware to fail or break other than the cable and the chain itself.

Then, on the rising tide, you bring the boat in and attach the chain to your strongest cleat or windlass and let the tide lift it up off the bottom. Slowly maneauver into position and let 'er go. It'll take a while to settle into the mud, but once it does, it won't be going ANYWHERE.

It's best to time the pouring with the tide in mind. You want to pour as high on the beach as possible while the tide is on it's way out on the extreme low. Then it will get nearly a full 24 hours to cure since the next high won't come high enough to submerge it.

Of course, if you live somewhere that doesn't have 15' of tide change like us, you can just pour it on land and roll it down after it's cured. It's just less work to do it the other way.

For a small boat, the same thing can be done just using a car tire. You dig a hole on the beach and set the tire in it. Fill the interior of the tire with cement and voila! You've got an anchor.

[Bonden]

I had a mooring in Edgartown, MA which is strictly regulated by the Harbormaster. Moorings are installed and maintained by a local contractor and at last look, there was a 20 year waiting list.

At the moment, I don't have a boat but was able to get away with renting it during the summer months for a few years. The town tightened the regs so, recently, I gave it to my son - it was either that, give it to the town for the value of the tackle or buy a boat. I kept a Catalina 38 on it with no problems in pretty heavy winds.

This particular mooring consists of two 1 ton blocks, (most have 1 block) and appropriate chain. During the norther we had last fall, (approx 80 knot winds) there was a 45' Stolkraft (45 length x 16 beam - lots of windage, picture a motorhome) and everything stayed where it belonged. Pay close attention to your chafing gear - old fire hose works well.

The block/s will settle into the muck after time and the suction created is considerable - sorta like pulling a plug from a sink/tub.

Chafing gear - chafing gear - chafing gear, more boats get loose from inadequate gear than anything else..

Hope this helps

[Veebyes2]

I don't question the strength of various types of mooring anchors but, in extreme weather extreme things happen. True a mooring system which uses something like a crane counterweight can drag if it loses the suction (highly unlikely), but if it does start to drag, it takes alot more to drag 2 tons of weight across the bottom than a mooring anchor which has somehow been pulled out.