Maintaining those Colored Hulls

[Cape Codder]

Salt,
How did you get the oxidation to go away?
Did you use a high speed buffer?
Did you let it completely dry before waxing?

After I used the 3M Super Duty Compound, I then used 3M Finesse-it II. Real funky stuff, but it took off all the residue from the compound, leaving a shiny "wet look". Then the 3M wax went on really nice and came off with little or no effort.

[saltshaker28]

I used a high speed buffer with variable speed adjustment on it tried the 3m super cut but ended up using turtle wax liquid rubbing coumpound also it has been under 60 degrees in NY so the compound never got to dry on the hull

[Mariner]

I just wanted to chime in. My one-speed 10,000rpm buffer bit the dust. Litterally. The dust that came off the buffing pad at high speed built up in the motor and overheated it and it konked out. My friend is rebuilding it, since upon inspection, I discovered that it was actually a very expensive unit (I bought it used for $50 at a liquidation sale). But one disadvantage was that it was not variable speed.

My friend recently bought a lower-but-still-high-speed angle grinder/buffer. It is variable-speed and he used it to polish up the interior of his 1986 Boston Whaler. I must say, the results were incredible. He said that the variable speed allowed him to start slow, and build up speed, which meant that he could first spread the wax evenly, then buff it at a slightly higher speed, and then really polish it up to a shine at the highest speed. His boat looks brand new, despite being 22 years old.

This is clearly the way to go.

[Cape Codder]

Salt,
I've found that the compound needs to be used with a high-speed buffer, wiped off, and then allowed to dry out completely. When it completely dries, THEN you know if you got all the oxidation.
If it re-appears, more compound and buffing is required.
After you've got it down so there's no more oxidation.
Then apply wax.
(I found out thru expirence too!!!)

[RicM]

Yes, there is a solvent in the compound that makes the gelcoat look real nice (wet) when you wipe off the compound and the surface is dry to the touch. I left it 24 hours before waxing and found, to my chagrin, lot's of oxidized areas remaining when I returned the next day. A second pass did the trick, although there are still some slightly hazy areas if you look real close in direct sunlight. In retrospect, I probably should have wet sanded first with 2000 grit, then compound, then Finnesse It, then finish.

[JoeH]

A job I dread every year was relatively easy today. I have a 2004 Albin 28 TE flush deck with light oxidation. This year I tried Meguiar's 49 marine Oxidation Remover/Heavy Duty Cleaner. Applied with an inexpensive $30 Sears orbital polisher. The Oxidation remover was applied with the orbital polisher, then after a short dry I hand removed it. (very easy). After that I applied the Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax. I applied it by hand and polished it by hand. It was easier to polish by hand than with the orbital polisher. The polish just wiped off without any applied pressure. Finished the job in 5 hours, keeping in mind I'm no youngster.

Scheduled to launch in another 1 1/2 weeks.

Hope to see some of you folks in Boston.

Joe H