Center Window Albin 27

[don123]

There are caulks and then there are adhesives. I think it depends on how permanent you want the repair to be - If you want a 'forever fix' then you cannot beat 5200. It will glue two dissimilar materials together and it doesn't need to be top-coated to last virtually for the life of the boat, plus it remains flexible enough to allow for some movement, which is a good thing for any joint like the pilothouse to deck on the 27

There may be other good adhesive caulks out there, maybe even some nearly as good as 5200, but I'm not aware of anything better - It is virtually the industry standard for marine adhesives

Don

[Vic K]

Mine was so bad I had to use a epoxy and silica mixture and in some places fiberglass.
Vic

[Sprig1]

Hi Vic I am doing mine right now. Mine looked identical to yours.The front was completely rotted out except for a few small pieces that I used as a reference. Did you do the sides to? Will have about 5 days in it when complete. Thanks for all the help. If anyone wants detailed directions I can give them. I learned a lot don't know if it's all right but it's coming along. Next project is the cock pit sole. Got an estimate of $3500 to $5000 for the sole the pilot house is probably a bigger job. Will try to take some pictures always forget

[Sprig1]

Hi Vic what type of paint did you use on the joint and what color shade? Thanks chris

[Vic K]

Chris,
I did the front and both sides. The teak was crappy so I didn't replace it. I think it looks better without it. I used EasyPoxy 3108 but I've moved to Rustoleum Marine " Oyster White" matches EasyPoxy 3108 perfectly.

[Sprig1]

Vic it looks great. I can only hope mine comes out as well. Did you paint the whole hull?

[Vic K]

Chris,
Yup. The whole thing was rolled and tipped. Not happy with the coverage of the Easypoxy. Also the 3108 is much harder to get clean. I'm now trying the Rustoleum marine paint. If I keep the boat for any time I will probably get the hull Awlgripped. The 3108 seems to be holding up better on the hull than the topsides.

I was shocked to see what was under the teak covering the pilot house/cabin joint on my boat. This was also the source point for a lot of leaks. Just be prepared to do a lot of sanding. If you don't mine working with fiberglass you'll get a much stronger joint.

Good luck,

Vic

[PonusNick]

Thanks for the detail and the photos, Captain Vic. We were at 90 plus degrees and high humidity this weekend in CT (kinds like Houston) and the pilot house could have used more air.

[Vic K]

PonusNick.

You guys aren't suppose to be that hot. I was planning to head to Mystic to get out of the heat we have here and now you're telling me it;s hot there also. Bummer. Guess it's Colorado.

Vic

[SkipRocks]

I'm just slightly behind you. I'm just pulling the three pilothouse windows on my '85 Albin A 27 in August when I pull the boat to paint it. The wood on my windows - especially the center opening window - has deteriorated. I intend to replace them with metal frames. Pricey, but as frugal as I am - did I mention that I'm WAY frugal - I'm more adamant about stemming all interior leaks. I also intend to keep the center window as an opening window - the right and left non-opening. The best prices on new metal framed windows seem to be with rounded corners (3" radius) rather than squared off openings. Several forums say that the rounded window corners are less likely to leak, but I haven't wrapped my brain around that concept just yet.

Based on discussions at the marina, other boaters, this and other boat forums, I've either requested pricing or sent a template (required for pricing) to two sources (no response yet).
1. Wynne Enterprises in Alabama, www.wynneinc.com/
2. Summerland Industries in Summerland, B.C. Canada, http://www.sunviewindustries.ca/

As always, looking for other opinions as well.

Thanks

Skip

[JT48348]

I'd like to hear an approximate cost when you get a quote. It's a great idea.

As a cheap alternative I planned on removing the wood, and cutting new window trim pieces from black hdpe (basically king starboard) which I sourced from Menards in a 3/8" thick 8x4' sheet. $55

New window trim can be cut with wood tools. And no more destroyed teak or maintenance.

[Sprig1]

Here's what it looks like when your windows leak I should taken a picture with everything cut out but didn't. Where ever you see a crack that had to have coring behind it.

[JT48348]

We should start a thread "A27s in Various States of Undress". . Mine looks worse than yours. You still have a fwd cabin!

The repair looks good! Send more pictures

[JT48348]

Based on discussions at the marina, other boaters, this and other boat forums, I've either requested pricing or sent a template (required for pricing) to two sources (no response yet).
Skip

Did you get a quote yet from Wynn windows?
What's your plan to address the 3" radius for the new windows?

[smacksman]

[quote="... The best prices on new metal framed windows seem to be with rounded corners (3" radius) rather than squared off openings. Several forums say that the rounded window corners are less likely to leak, but I haven't wrapped my brain around that concept just yet. ..

Skip[/quote]

Rounded corners can be rolled from a single length with only a joint at the top/middle.
Square corners require four mitred corners and four times the possibility of leaks.
Over in the UK we go for double glazed sealed units for the glass which stops condensation and misted up windows in the morning.