Pilot House Rot

[JT48348]

So I decided to use a little epoxy to glue the joints on the trim frames for the center pilot house window trim, the cockpit side locker frames, and the cockpit drawer trim frame. I figure they were glued originally so it was time for a redo.

I'm going to use Dow silicon on the window frames that have glass. And probably 3m 4200 when I reinstall the windows to the pilothouse.

[Jay Knoll]

if you could find someone who has one of these in your area to borrow

http://www.amazon.com/Festool-574432-Do ... ol+dominos

And use the small dominoes to create floating tenon joints you shouldn't have to worry about things pulling apart

I don't think that a biscuit joiner would work, biscuits might be too long, but the machine is certainly cheaper

[JT48348]

Hmmm a tool I don't have. Good suggestion

[JT48348]

Epoxy and pin nails woken well to hold the frames together.

[rnummi]

What material did you finish trim with?

[JT48348]

The trim is the original teak sanded bare then coated with about ten coats of Cetol Marine Gloss.

[rnummi]

I'm following your lead... I'll stick with wood for now.

[rnummi]

BTB I love Cetol. On my previous boat I used it on the companionway boards and all the exterior bright work. Man that stuff is miraculous. Better living through chemistry. My old salt friends were aghast that I wasn't coating w spar varnish. Two years after application they were redoing their bright work, I was drinking a beer watching. Cetol still in pristine condition.

[rnummi]

Someone mentioned the seal joint between cabin wall and the overhead. Void you have rot or delamination on the upper part of cabin sides? I pulled hand holds on pilot house roof. You guessed it, no bedding. Definitely water intrusion. Plan on the bent nail treatment and rebed. I've got delam on upper edges of cabin sides (window openings) and also the front window openings. So far we've been discussing gravity pours... How about the tops?

[Sprig1]

Go a website called compass marine the man knows his stuff. He does everything the right way. He gives great pictorials on how to do it. I use his information all the time can't say enough about him

[rnummi]

Good call on Compass Marine.

[rnummi]

So, I,be got all the trim off, suctioned out the rot, drilled the holes, almost ready to pour. Question: how did you secure the pilot house to the deck (before the pour in)? On the port side, I had to completely remove the core, the only thing left is the skins flapping in the breeze. Starboard has the holes drilled. However, again, if you pour it will theoretically adhere directly to the deck surface correct? It appeared to have screws securing it before. Apparently from the pilot house downwards into the deck. Slide wax paper under the lower edge? One pour, then drill? Then pour on top of the screws? At this point, but for the screws behind the liner, I could lift the whole thing off.

[rnummi]

This is becoming one thread slowly but surely. So.... anybody have any experience with Git-Rot? I've got access to the balsa core through delamination, core around pilothouse windows is now routed down about half an inch at base of each (to fill with epoxy). Remainder a little soft but not rotten. Before I seal this puppy up forever do I give it a spray, or pour, or whatever you do with Git-Rot?

[rnummi]

Question: Other woods to use for window frame and Pilot House trim

FYI for you Floridians, was over at Don's Marine Salvage (in Largo) yesterday, they have 4 travel trailers of teak stock to rebuild window frames. trim etc....you can literally replace all the teak trim on your boat/pilot house for 150 bucks. Also, they had a nice stock of "rosewood".. Heavier and denser than teak, I had never heard of it on boats before (Don's is a boat surplus yard for Catalina/Morgan/Island,Packet etc). Thinking I better stick with tried and true. Part 2: Also stopped by Clearwater Home Depot for some sandpaper... noticed a large supply of solid mahogany trim and lumber in varying lengths. Can mahogany be used for pilothouse trim as well?

FYI: I priced sufficient teak stock to replace the entire trim package on a A27: $150 at Dons.

[rnummi]

Ok, one for you guys the have been there done that... I've poured unthickened epoxy into the port side bulkhead void.... It's still drinking epoxy with no sign of the end. Question: Can you pour $35 per gallon polyester resin on top of West's fully cured epoxy? No structural issues, just need a cheap fill. As you recall, the portside of the pilothouse had lost its entire core and was replaced with pressure treated pickets. I've offed a whole gallon of West and am wondering if I've shot myself in the foot (i.e. You could have used polyester, but since you started w West, you are committed etc).