Albin 25 fuel vent hose replacement dilema

[Burton]

We recently purchased a 25. It had not been in the water for four years and the fuel tank contained water. It is now removed and I pressure washed it out. Thankfully, it was very clean.

I am replacing the fuel fill hose, raising the deck fill a bit with some King starboard, and installing a new "O" ring, using "T" clamps instead of hose clamps, etc..

The problem is the old fuel tank vent hose. The 90 degree vent outlet is not a hose barb fitting. It has what appears a metric straight pipe thread, and a fitting like a hydraulic hose. New code calls for a 5/8" vent hose, and by upgrading to 5/8" I can include a whistle full tank indicator. (Current outlet fitting's ID is 0.432 inches or 10.85 mm, OD is .654 in or 16.63 mm.)

Has anyone figured out how to upgrade this? Is it possible to drill out the tank flange to a larger size (it has a large enough diameter) and tap it to NPS thread without compromising the connection of the flange to the tank? (I do not know how the flanges are attached to the tank--they almost look pressed in, they are not welded on the exterior side.) If this would work, one could upgrade by installing a 5/8" hose barb connection.

Is this size vent hose adequate, and if so, is it best to just replace it? And how does one get a replacement? Does anyone have an easy solution to not dumping fuel in the water out the vent outlet and yet filling the tank, without the whistle installation? I do plan on filling the tank one gallon at a time and knowing the fuel gauge readings for each gallon.

Much appreciative of any help!

[nebulatech]

Hi Burton,

Congratulations on your A25 purchase!

I don't really have any answers for you, just an observation. When I removed my tank, I could hear a baffle knocking around inside it. Knowing that, at least on larger fuel tanks, those baffles are important, I paused to consider how to repair it. What I came up with was cutting an inspection port into the top of the tank, larger than the sending unit hole, big enough to get an arm inside. Of course, this would require picking up a piece of stainless sheet metal to make a cover for the new inspection port.

If you made an inspection port, you could easily upgrade the vent hose fitting on the tank to accommodate your desired 5/8" vent nose without having to visit a welder.

As an aside, when I removed my tank, there were some strips of wood on the hull underneath, with some long since decayed material on top of them, which I assume were to pad the tank and prevent abrasion from the hull. Do you by chance have any photos of what you found underneath your tank?

[WillieC]

Nebulatech, that describes almost to a tee my experience with the fuel tank. I went with a commercially made inspection port on top of the fuel tank. Details floating around here somewhere, they are in Tri-cities area of Washington, I think. I simply cut the rattling baffle in half and removed it. It's only a twenty gallon tank and I never see rough water. On purpose.

I found all kinds of detritus gnawing holes in the bottom of the tank, fortunately none serious. Anything dropped on the port side of the pilot house will end up under the tank, funny things these curved hulls.

I didn't do anything fancy with the vent hose, other than install a new one, same-ish size and make sure it doesn't get crushed or kinked by its installation. Also make sure the vent fitting is clear. I did install foam rubber fake diamond plate mats under the tank, making sure to dam up the port edge so no more crud works its way under it. I also re-jiggered the floorboard supports to not press on the tank. I also wedged the tank with wood blocks at each upper corner. I don't worry too much about sloshing fuel, but a slam banging tank is another story, but only on rough water, which we never see.

[Sunsetrider]

The rogue baffle in my tank was causing intermittent loss of fuel delivery mid-voyage. When I finally recognized the cause, I had the tank removed, flushed, and the baffles re-welded. I really regret not taking that extra step of installing an inspection port. This season I think I will find some cushioned matting to underlay the tank, bottom and hull side.

[nebulatech]

Sunsetrider, what material do you think you will use? I searched for padding for my water tank, and noone had any suggestions. I ended up using door/window flashing tape. It's just under 1/8" thick and basically rubber. I would have liked something thicker, but especially with the water tank being in the accommodation, I didn't want something that would trap water or promote mold/mildew growth.

I'm interested what you end up using.

[WillieC]

I did install foam rubber fake diamond plate mats under the tank, making sure to dam up the port edge.

[Sunsetrider]

I was thinking of cutting strips from one of the foam pads in my garage - the pads that connect together like a jigsaw.

[WillieC]

Those jigsaw foam pads are exactly what I used. Leftover chunks from my whole floor.

[nebulatech]

Those jigsaw foam pads are exactly what I used. Leftover chunks from my whole floor.

I was going to ask if there was any sign of mildew, but after thinking about it, I realized you've probably not crawled under the tank to take a look yet...

[WillieC]

Apparently you haven’t seen my posts about the two rotted tuna cans we found under the head sole.

We don’t let no stinkin’ stink bother us.

[nebulatech]

I do remember that actually. I will be rebuilding the wood platform in my head in mid June. Who knows, maybe there's a can of caviar?

[WillieC]

Amazingly we don't really have mildew issues here in, of all places wet and wonderful, the PNW. Either that or I am so conditioned to it that I don't notice it, except I am allergic to just about everything so mold and mildew should kill me. At least I used to be. Took shots as a kid and again in my forties, then we moved to actually waterfront property and my spring hayfever has been remarkably non-existent.

We do run an electric dehumidifier or two, the cheap ones, natch, over the winter. The boat is kept on the hard under the dkirsop should-be-patented tarp cover, and that helps a bunch. I find and fix leaks, keep the bilge clean and as empty as I can.

And when I get a hankering for canned tuna, you'll know where to find me....

[Burton]

Re the vent—
I could not find fittings to make a hose replacement. And, new code is for a five eights inside diameter hose, and the old one was 1/2 inch. The old one was clearly leaking, and there was so much diesel-soaked crud in the bilge it was amazing— an hour flushing it out.

I bought a new stainless 1/2” NPT weldment for a 5/8” hose barb attachment, removed the old one using a highspeed grinder, and silver brazed the new one on with the oxy acetylene torch, 1200 degree stuff. We put in a new 5/8” vent, and in the new 5/8” line installed a whistle inline near the tank. It works fantastic! (We’ll have no more fuel spilled out the vent as with our previous boat. Even filling with a fuel can and funnel makes it whistle. Haven’t filled it with the harbors pump yet.)

We did not deal with the loose baffle— now wishing I did.