Oil Filters for Yanmar

[RicM]

Can someone give me an online source for official Yanmar oil filters for the 6LP?

[mhanna]

I ordered a few from bluewater, not sure if they were the cheapest but did get them inside a week.
I picked up fuel and air filters as well

http://www.bluewatershipsstore.com/Engi ... parts.aspx

[Capt Ron]

There's a thread on this site somewhere concerning a Toyota filter that would fit. I checked into it and could buy them by the case at approx. $11.00 each. I'm reluctant to try it. The $15 savings may end costing an engine repair. Has anyone actually used the toyota filter?
While on the subject of oil, my oil pressure is at the high end of the red zone at idle and 40 KP at 3,000 rpm. How's everyone else in this area?

[RicM]

The Toyota filter will fit and looks the same. I have read elsewhere (I think boatdiesel.com) that there is a pressure bypass valve in the filters. The car filters is set for 5 PSI and the boat filter is set for 15 PSI.

[Mariner]

I highly recommend using the manufacturer's oil filter whenever possible, but it isn't always possile. If you have the Yanmar part number, you'd be surprised how easy it is to cross-reference on the Fram, Wix, and Baldwin websites. Their databases are amazingly complete. Fram's seems to be the best.

I would be very surprised if an oil filter even had a pressure bypass valve as that would negate the purpose of the filter. And considering that most car engines run in the 40-60psi range, I would be very surprised if it was set to open at 5 or even 15psi. But I'm no expert and only a certified Yanmar mechanic could answer this with any authority. The question, of course, is would they do so truthfully?

[RicM]

This was from another forum about Yanmar 6LP motors.

Just got back from a 3 day Yanmar diesel engine class and I figured I’d pass some tidbits on to you all... Most of the specific info applies to the 6LP series.


· The 6LP series was built by Yanmar for Toyota to use in their Landrover vehicles in Australia, they were only used for a year (too expensive) so Yanmar got the rights back and marinized them for use in boats.
· Use only the Yanmar fuel/oil filters, the oil filter has a 15-PSI relief valve built into it, the automotive type only has a 5-PSI. The fuel filer has an additive in it to protect the fuel system that leaches overtime and must be replaced.
· Don’t adjust the idle lower than 725 RPM for you fisherman, if you adjust it lower than 725 the engine will not be properly lubricated and will be damaged internally, install a trolling valve on the transmission.
· Only idle/troll for an hour then run the engine to at least 2000 RPM and go for a short 10 minute run, diesels don’t like to idle, they want to run (this apples to all engines) they build up excess carbon that eventually cause all kinds of problems down the road
· Use only extended life antifreeze (the Texaco orange stuff) if you use the green stuff and the engine overheats the silicon will gel out and clog the exchangers and engine passages, usually the exchanges will have to be replaced, if the engine passages are blocked, time for new block as no one has been able to find any cleaning solution that will dissolve the silicon.
· Keep your fuel tanks full (keeps moisture/water accumulation down). And use diesel fuel NOT #2 heating oil. Use a Cetain booster; the engines were designed to run at 48. Make sure the Primary (Racor) filter has a 30-micron element in it. You will run into problems if it has a 10 or 2 micron. The secondary on the engine is a 10-micron; it needs to be replaced every year regardless as an additive in the filter is leached out to protect the fuel system, after a year the additive is exhausted.
· Use good engine lube oil (instructor liked Rotella T) (higher the price the better) and change it often. As the oil is used it becomes dirty and acidic, using synthetic is fine but the extended life you get is not really relevant since the oil still gets dirty and more importantly acidic, so you need to change it often. This is the single most important and simplest thing you can do to prolong the life of the engine.
· Keep the engine oil on the full mark, these engines are designed to “consume oil” it helps to cool them, when the oil level is allowed to fall until it is no longer consuming engine oil the engine will wear much more quickly. Yanmar’s rule is the engine may consume UP TO 3 quarts of engine oil for every 100 gal of fuel burned. Do not use engine oil additives.
· Change the antifreeze every 2nd season and the engine lube oil often. The additives are spec’ed out for automotive use which are on a 20% duty cycle, a marine engine is running on a 80% duty cycle so the additives are used up much quicker and need to be replenished more often to protect the engine
· The max RPM rating is only for a 1-hour running. The engine is not designed to run at the max RPM longer, otherwise serious internal wear will start occurring
· Propeller: the instructor said he loves people who like to tinker with the props; the prop tinkers create a lot of business for his repair shop. To briefly sum up what he said using my engine as an example (you can find your info in the engine spec page in your manual): 6LP-STE max RPM is 4200 no load, this verifies that the engine is in good order and adjusted properly, next WOT under load should be 3950. They like the boat slightly under propped so it can turn up, otherwise an engine that will not turn up is always overloaded even trolling in gear and as such significant wear will occur internally due to the strain on the unit (e.g.: oil film on cylinder walls is lacking and metal to metal contact is occurring) Note: Shamrock did an excellent job matching the prop and boat with my 27 MAC, the engine and prop combo does 3950 exactly. Check it with a digital tach, your analog tach can be as much as 300 RPM off.
· If maintained and serviced the Yanmar diesel engines will last minimum of 10,000 hours, number one cause of failure is improper/no maintenance and propeller tinkering.

Hope this is helpful, there was a lot more material covered however I tried to be as general as possible, if you have any specific questions send an email and I’ll reply if it was covered.

[RobS]

Thanks Ric, That has to be one of the single most informative posts I have ever read.

[RicM]

RobS:

I can't take credit, it was a quote from www.boatdiesel.com, an excellent site and well worth the subscription fee. As a new diesel owner I have found it very helpful. I am hoping to take the same course at Mac Boring this winter sometime.

Are you still picking up your boat tomorrow? Looks like you may want to consider long johns, but otherwise not TOO terrible a day for a journey to the isle of long.
from nooa:

ANZ237-242015-
/O.EXT.KBOX.SC.Y.0106.000000T0000Z-071124T1300Z/
BLOCK ISLAND SOUND-
313 AM EST SAT NOV 24 2007

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY NOW IN EFFECT UNTIL 8 AM EST THIS
MORNING...

.TODAY...NW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 25 KT...
DIMINISHING TO 5 TO 10 KT AROUND NOON...THEN BECOMING SW LATE.
SEAS 1 TO 2 FT.
.TONIGHT...SW WINDS 5 TO 10 KT...INCREASING TO 10 TO 15 KT LATE.
SEAS AROUND 2 FT.
.SUN...SW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 25 KT. SEAS 2 TO
4 FT.
.SUN NIGHT...SW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 20 KT...
DIMINISHING TO 5 TO 10 KT LATE. SEAS 2 TO 4 FT.

You do realize that the reverse cycle heat setup only works at the dock right?

Ric

[RobS]

You do realize that the reverse cycle heat setup only works at the dock right?
Ric

She's not equipped with the A/C / Rev Cycle Heat. Yes without a genset I am aware it's the frigde only when out at sea. No, the documentation was not able to get done in time due to the short week so we're looking at a day next week or next weekend at the latest.

I have been a member of boat diesel for several months, ever since I started my Albin quest. Awesome site for $10 or $25, I forgot what it was...

I have to look into that course at MB. I love going to classes on topics that are actually interesting and useful. Guess it's a result of taking so many that were uninteresting and useless in college!

I'll keep you posted on the p/u of the boat and I'll take photos and post them with details of the p/u and trip home. If it's cold with sun, not bad. If it's cold and cloudy that will be a bummer. I have a good assortmant of cold weather gear so it's just a matter of being prepared, as with anything else I guess.

Talk to you soon,
Rob