A27- Head modification

[sail149]

Thank you for showing us all what's there.....
I thought you might leave the fwd part of the bench wall as a starting point for a wall but it's gone!
So are you still sure you want to put the head fwd?
The middle of the aft or engine bulkhead looks like a good spot, just extent the orriginal head shelf.
You did not mention bifold doors , that's been done in many sail boat quite well I think.

Don't forget the liner fix up before the reconstruction.
Warren

[sail149]

JT
Another thought , I was thinking the area under the old head sliding doors would be a good please to run a duct for AC to the fwd cabin from a unit under the cotpit stb side..... And a second duct to aft cabin as well .
Looks like there is plenty of room. Thanks again for showing.....
What's MGC warren

[JT48348]

"Muchos Grandes Cajones"

[JT48348]

Warren: Right, I originally planned to try and use the bench bulkhead as a place to tab in the new bulkhead, but it became obvious during demo that the pan liner was not supported across the span of the bilge. This means there's nothing under the liner where the buylkhead would have tabbed in. So I took it down further.

My plan is to put in some framing below the liner, connecting to the hull and build up the deck from there. I think it will be cleaner. Then install the bulkhead, which will act as additional support for the mast step at the deck just behind the fwd hatch.

Your idea about moving the head around is noted. It might indeed work better on the aft bulkhead. I will check. In general, I think the shower is better aft, since there slightly more headroom. As u go fwd, headroom decreases in the fwd cabin. The most headroom is at the aft most bulkhead. And a shower requires the most headroom possible so the shower head works properly.

I am currently trying to solve the shower pan problem. Where and what to make the pan out of, and confirming that a sump or a pump-out will fit below the pan/deck so no more draining into the bilge. I've located a small rv shower pan that might be adapted for my purpose. I plan to do another mock up this wkd.

RE: a/c ductwork. Do you have an a/c unit? I was looking at the same thing! an interior a/c unit, with duct work fore and aft cooling two cabins. Looking for suggestions.

BTW removed the entire hangling locker and d/c panel and wiring. There is great room without the hanging locker and access to the fwd bilge through the pan liner. Currently taking suggestions for where to relocate the d/c panel and maybe a/c panel also, under this thread The New Electrical Panel Location Thread

[JT48348]

Shower pan mock up. Looks like the shower pan will go along the aft most bulkhead. I have found a fiberglass shower pan 18x35".

shower pan 03-5203-web.jpg

The blue cardboard shows where the pan will go. Should be plenty of room to plumb in a sump pump, so nothing drains into the bilge. In addition, based on the space I have now, I think I have a location for a small sink, which will go next to the toilet in the opposite corner. Burned up my grinder while taking out the toilet step. FWI it's 2" thick plywood, glassed on the horizontal surface.

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[Jay Knoll]

JT

Where are all the wires? I had a ton of wires running inside my hanging locker, all the AC and DC feeds came back to that part of the boat! Have you pulled them aft to the engine room?

Jay

[JT48348]

Wires removed. Looking for a new location for the panel. I'm pretty much redoing the entire boat, switching to LEDs and all, and changing locations etc. So I'm running everything as a I go and making it exactly as I like it

[don123]

My '84 A-27 has the power panels mounted just above the icebox, on the other side of the companionway from the hanging locker. I *think* this was the stock location on the earlier boats. It's a tight squeeze, especially after I added a larger DC panel and all the cabling associated with the generator transfer panel. If I had been thinking correctly when I began my project, I should have transferred everything over to the opposite side and put it in the hanging locker, but it never occurred to me . . . . until now

Don

[Jay Knoll]

Just looked at your pics again, it looks like you might have some leaking at the rubrail. You might want to look into it before you do all the other interior work.

The PO on my boat took off the rubrail, CUT the old fasteners out, opened up the hull deck joint, removed the old bedding and redid it with 5200! He then refastened with new stainless bolts/screws and then, sadly, put the old rubrail back on! All that work, it would have been great if a new rubrail had been installed.

Nevertheless, no leaks now!

Jay

[JT48348]

Right-Unknown at this point if its the rub rail, but could be. Lots of moisture trapped inside headliner and running down bulkheads to liner and then onward. This is something I have to determine

[JFOkie]

Jay, are you talking about the marks/stains that are visible under the windows and toward the icebox? I have the same stains and will be removing and replacing my rub rail this spring. There seems to be a small leak in the rear berth and I think that it's because of the rub rail.

JT love your enthusiasm and jealous that you have the time to undertake such a project. Thanks for your posts, I'm taking notes and hope to get my head some what gutted and install a composting head in the spring.

John
M/V Nirvana

[Jay Knoll]

John

Yes, I was referring to the stains under the windows and toward the icebox. If you check my thread Better Days Refit you'll see that my galley counter was rotted out, I didn't have any problems under the ports.

Jay

[JT48348]

So anyone know what type of hull joint does the A27 have? Does it overlap, underlap, or boxed. And how is the joint put together: screwed or bolted. My guess is overlap, or #D, maybe with screws or rivets, and sealant. Maybe none of the above?

The water I am seeing appears to be coming from my ports, my fwd hatch (which is a piece of plywood right now), my stanchions, and various deck fittings. It seems the notion of thru-bolting anything with a proper backing plated on the A27 was dismissed by the entire Albin factory. I can't count the number of sheet metal screws used for mounting. As I secure these leaks, I can better examine the hull-deck joint.

I've decided to grind down the fiberglass on back of the deck fittings, hand holds, etc, so everything can be removed, properly sealed and backed. Anyone have any suggestions on this? It appears I just need to grind thru the fiberglass glob and the bolts and replace everything.

[tego]

JT, You are correct that it's "d". It has an overlaid extrusion that's pop riveted thru the joint. The extrusion is shaped to hold the rubber rub-rail on also. There are several references to it with pictures in previous posts somewhere here. The factory placed 3/4" marine ply in the glass sandwich(instead of balsa) on mine wherever a thru-deck fitting is located. Then used small flat washers under the nuts. I replaced the washers with proper backing plates where I could so far. I'm lucky I guess, I don't have any problems with leakage on mine. I only had to remove and re-bed my aft cabin fixed port, but didn't have any rot there. Ben

[JFOkie]

JT, on my previous boat (Grady White) I removed the rails, cleats, and other items and drilled out the holes approximately twice the size. If there was any rot, I removed it and then filled the holes with epoxy. Once hardened, I then drilled into the epoxy and reinstalled the rail and cleats and used bedding. Doing it this way protects the deck and hull if there is ever a leak. The water will not be able to get to the wood as the hardware is screwed in to the epoxy.

I also removed all my ports two years ago, cleaned and reinstalled them. No leaks since and it looks a lot better too. If I have the time when I'm done with the head modification I plan on replacing the forward hatch.

John
M/V Nirvana