Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

[Norseman]

Ok, will look into Blue Seas panels, thx.

No rush, old panel is working fairly well, some of the diode lights are burned out, but if I look around hard enough, can probably find replacements.
Also discovered the bilge pumps are actually wired correctly to the batteries:
The helm panel bilge pumps switches have 3 positions: AUTO-OFF-ON.
I thought off means off, but I was wrong, OFF is also AUTO.
(As should be, the float switches are hot wired to the batteries regardless of helm panel switch positions)
What I would like to change is the ON positions to be continuous, not just Press to Test, or Press to Pump: If the boat is sinking and 1 or 2 float switches are jammed, I need all pumps to run continuously in the ON Manual position.

Hopefully I will get a full refund and can start over again.

[Norseman]

Had a inside leak from the hardtop the other day: A Starboard hand-rail fastener was dripping: Water droplets hit my right hand while operating in light rain: Made sure the Starboard side window was closed, but the drop (drip) came back. WTF..? Window IS closed...
Looked up and sure enough it came from the center grab rail bolt.

Ok, fairly low tech problem, remove grab rail, clean out old caulk and re-bed.
Removed the rail and the forward bolt broke off, looks like crevice corrosion.

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Found out the bolt was welded in place with a washer.
Dropped it off at a machine shop, they fixed it a few days later: $90 but if you pay cash, $80.
Paid cash and took it home.

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Been drying out the core for a week and today used a heat gun and acetone to get the holes ready for epoxy injection.
Took more epoxy than I thought, a second injection will be needed tomorrow.

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Lots of tape on the inside to keep the epoxy in place

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[Norseman]

Using this stuff for all my recent “Epoxy Projects”

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Highly recommended.

[Norseman]

Epoxy cured nicely.
Drilled new 3/8” holes today, but heads up: The rails are not 90 degrees to the hardtop, but rather 86.4 degrees for some reason, had to drill the holes using this angle: Got lucky and hit it real close, the rail fit right in, new bolt and all.
Used a thin 1” nylon washer with a 3/8” hole between the rail and the hard top and used 3M 4000 UV caulk on both sides of the nylon washer to make the installation water proof this time, hopefully.

(The factory uses no stinking washer on the outside, instead the metal dug into the fiberglass and after the caulk failed, every hole got a leak and rotted the core. )

Will do the Port grab rail in a few days, if the bolts don’t break it should an easy project, but need sunny and dry weather for the core to dry, then inject epoxy.

Using tape around the washer to minimize the caulking mess.

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Some epoxy residue visible, need to paint the hardtop anyways, the nonskid is chalking and needs to be renewed.

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[GSSeattle]

Ok, will look into Blue Seas panels, thx.

No rush, old panel is working fairly well, some of the diode lights are burned out, but if I look around hard enough, can probably find replacements.
Also discovered the bilge pumps are actually wired correctly to the batteries:
The helm panel bilge pumps switches have 3 positions: AUTO-OFF-ON.
I thought off means off, but I was wrong, OFF is also AUTO.
(As should be, the float switches are hot wired to the batteries regardless of helm panel switch positions)
What I would like to change is the ON positions to be continuous, not just Press to Test, or Press to Pump: If the boat is sinking and 1 or 2 float switches are jammed, I need all pumps to run continuously in the ON Manual position.

Hopefully I will get a full refund and can start over again.

You should be able to just swap out the switches on your current panel if you want AUTO-OFF-ON instead of AUTO-OFF-(ON) / momentary. Standard SPDT switch. Mine are also wired where off is actually auto as well, but easy fix if you wanted off to mean off. There has been a time when washing the bilge where I wanted off to really be off so I wouldn't pump overboard.

[Norseman]

. There has been a time when washing the bilge where I wanted off to really be off so I wouldn't pump overboard.

Good point on cleaning the bilge, but you can always pop the breaker or pull the fuse?

Not sure if I want it OFF permanently if case my detail guy bumps the switches, then with my luck, the tub sinks to the bottom..

[Norseman]

Tired of pilot house side windows being hard to open and close.
Tried silicone spray in the past and it worked, for a while, then the windows got almost stuck again.

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Trying White Lithium Grease now.
Works great so far, windows move like on roller bearings.

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[Norseman]

Old rear-view mirror had corroded beyond reasonable repair, only 3 years old:

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Bought a new one, same brand, don’t want to drill new holes

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This time I sprayed the mirror with heavy duty corrosion inhibitor.

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Installed with caulk around the spacer to keep salt spray away from the self tapping screws. (The old ones showed corrosion)

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]

Ready to roll.
Nice easy project, took only 3 hours including a trip to West Marine.

Found this note on the packaging:

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[Norseman]

A separate Flowscan thread, but will link it right here as it comes under the same umbrella:

“Modifications, Repairs and Improvements, 28TE”

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13242

Another thread I started that also belongs here, lots of good input and information about replacing the old fridge on the Albin 28TE with a modern version: Thanks to Nancy and others who had done this before me.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12277

[Norseman]

. Goodbye New Wire Marine and you can kiss the $1,552.31 I paid for the panel and shipping goodbye as well.

Got a refund check in the mail today, for almost the full amount, looks like I paid shipping, they paid the return shipping. Close enough, I guess.

Wish the panel could have worked out, now starting over again.

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[Norseman]

Noticed the old anchor roller had stopped rotating when I retrieved the anchor last week.
Probably too much squeeze from the sides as the bolt was a tad short.

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Old bolt was 3/8” X 3 1/4”, got a new bolt 3 1/2” long, now there is room for 2 lock nuts as well as more “elbow room” for the roller.
Got a new roller at West Marine, $13.00 made by Lewmar, 2.5” diameter.

Note the custom made U shaped boom bail, new anchor would not fit with the old one.
Anchor is a 33 lbs Rocna.

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Nice easy little project, except for the laying on my knees on the anchor platform trying to thread a newly greased slippery bolt through 5 holes and 2 washers without dropping parts or tools in the water.
The roller has a metal sleeve, between it and the nylon roller I used silicone grease, the metal to metal pieces got Salt Water Trailer Bearing Grease.
Works good, hopefully last a long time..

[Tree]

I’ll try to remember to get a picture of my setup. I made a custom stainless steel roller with aluminium bronze bushings at a fixed length. I also slung the U shaped boom bail out and made my own from stainless steel again that is much stronger with a bigger loop to contain my Bruce style anchor.

[Norseman]

I’ll try to remember to get a picture of my setup. I made a custom stainless steel roller with aluminium bronze bushings at a fixed length. I also slung the U shaped boom bail out and made my own from stainless steel again that is much stronger with a bigger loop to contain my Bruce style anchor.

Ok, Stainless Steel roller is great for a nylon rope for sure, but a galvanized chain on a steel roller may not be a good combo however.
(On my previous boat I had dual setup: A nylon roller for the chain and a polished SS roller for the nylon snubber line and for the emergency 250 feet of 3/4” three strand nylon behind the 215’ of 5/16” G4 chain.)

On this boat I use chain only: 1/4” Hight Test G4 chain and the snubber line goes to a cleat.

Hope the Bruce style Anchor work for you, but over here with shallow sand, the Bruce will set fast but have less holding power than a modern plow.

[Norseman]

Removed and replaced 4 pencil zincs on the Yanmar 6LP-STE today:

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From the left: Intercooler, about 50% life left.
The short one came from the oil cooler, about 75% life left: Note it is 1/2” shorter than the 2 to the right: You have to cut it shorter than standard, otherwise it will break off and get stuck in the oil cooler. (Been there, done that twice )

The remaining 2 have about 75% life left.
Time in service 10 months and 94 hours running time,
Boat is docked in brackish water most of the time, perhaps that increases the life of these anodes.
2 more to go and they are the hard to reach ones on the heat exchanger.

Edit 5 hours later.
The pencil zincs was further gone than they looked, flakes crumbled off all 4, at least 50% gone.

[Norseman]

The forward anode on the oil cooler came off today. It was swollen like the others and I had to wiggle it out carefully.
In the past I changed the anodes every 12 months, now every 10 months.
With the previous schedule the pencil zincs would swell so much that they broke off and got stuck in the heat exchangers. (Got to remove hoses and the end plate then try to fish out the pieces, with fingers or needle nose pliers.)
Looks like I hit the sweet spot at 10 months.
One to go and that is the hidden one at the forward end-plate to the primary heat exchanger on the Port side of the Yanmar.
It usually takes 2-3 hours as the cooling system has to be partially removed to gain access.
(I should try to rotate the end plate to get better access, anybody done that?)

Part of my operations and most of the docking is in brackish waters, wonder if this causes the swelling? Anybody see the same swelling on strictly salt water boats…

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