My 1977 Albin 25 Deluxe rebuild thread

[hetek]

I liked the original install but was second guessing the capacity of the water lock muffler. When I revisited the Vetus catalog I found one that looked like a drop in fit that had 50% more capacity than my Centek unit.

Better, right? Not quite.

First, the Vetus one didn’t fit as well as I had hoped (one of the drain plugs was waaay too close to the prop shaft) and it was nearly physically impossible for it to hold the amount of water advertised (It would have to be 100% full of water). The Centek’s advertised numbers were much more real-world accurate.

The Centek is back in. The Vetus is on its way back to Defender. I’m happy.

True about the gooseneck design, Ulf… Duly noted.

On to installing the vented loop…

[WillieC]

Keep the pics coming, Jon. For going on 50 years the original exhaust system has worked flawlessly. The only change being the swap for the original Blastomuffler to a Centek fiberglass can with an internal baffle. I also swapped out the thru-hull that looked nasty but still functioned for a shiny vetus unit with a flimsy flapper valve that I presumed would blow out the first time I lit the engine. Five years later that flimsy plastic flapper is still flapping and looks pretty much like the day I installed it.

All that said, there is nothing in the original installation that looks remotely like the installation instructions commonly found showing the vented loop. We also have the stories of catastrophic failure of river current overcoming exhaust pressure in a running engine! We do a fair bit of our running in the straits surfing following seas. Big enough that I don't bother looking over my shoulder because I am concentrating on not turning sideways in the trough as the waves pass under us. Of course I am running around 1700 rpm, not idling. I figure the exhaust manifold/bottom of the exhaust elbow is maybe 6-8 inches above the waterline, if that. The thru-hull of the exhaust is just below WL. Hard to spend all that effort and lose such valuable real estate in the boat for something that keeps on ticking. Maybe that few inches above WL of the exhaust elbow is what has saved our bacon. Any engine installation that lowers that gap would definitely concern me.

[hetek]

Agreed, Willie C. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

But my Albin’s engine was broke (years before I got it) and the repower is rather unique.

Think: Sailboat installation.

The Vetus 25hp 3 cylinder diesel I’ve installed sits waaaay low in the boat. I’ve had to address the uniqueness of the install and followed, what else, the Vetus “bible” of exhaust systems. Hence, the vented loop and the exhaust riser.

Here’s a pic (as requested) of the Vetus sitting inside the engine box…

Vetus installed.JPG

Gives new meaning to the saying “low and slow”!

A far cry from the original Albin or Volvo power of old, I’m sure.

The blue stripe hoses on the left now lead to the vented loop I mounted inside the port seat locker.

Just realized I have a “self portrait” reflection in the varnish.

[WillieC]

Yup, with the manifold at or about WL you better do something.

You need to do something about that reflection, too. I am using that area for mounting my echo charge, the Balmar regulator, a fire extinguisher, to say nothing about how I expanded the channel that contains the control cables for my electrical distribution, engine alarms, and battery switches, and more. OK, I could up my game by spending a bit more energy on wood finishing, but, nah...

[tribologist]

Remarkable low engine! The water is about 1.5” under the top of the floor boards in our boat

[WillieC]

I agree with tribologist on the waterline. Sounds very close to the WillieC.

[hetek]

About what I figured… waterline 1” below floorboards. Give or take.

You can see the water injection fitting on the exhaust elbow is only about 3” above the floorboard. That puts the waterline about 4” lower. Vetus says if it’s less than 6”… it’s vented loop installation time.

Done deal. No need to twist my arm. Better safe than sorry. I don’t want sea water siphoning into my engine anytime soon!

Still making progress. Just installed a new VHF radio with a dedicated GPS module. No need to turn the GPS or chart plotter on when sending a distress call. The radio has its own GPS receiver.

Chipping away at my punch list.

[hetek]

Forgot to add that I also filled in the soccer ball sized cutout in the engine cover’s starboard side.

Not sure if this was an Albin thing or a previous owner hack job. It did have a 50 hp Westerbeke stuffed in it before I bought it. They probably had to cut to make it fit.

I bought a 3/16” thick FRP panel, cut it to fit and ground an 8:1 taper at the mating edges. Then laid in 5 layers of fiberglass mat in epoxy.

Here’s some pics. The red is the epoxy. West System says it turns color with age (I used last year’s hardener) but it doesn’t hurt the strength. It’s inside an engine box. I’m ok with the red.

Repair panel trimmed to fit.jpeg

Fiberglassed seam.jpeg

Finished repair from the outside. Just needs minor filling and paint or gelcoat.jpeg

[WillieC]

With that experienced repair, you are ready to punch a hole in the hull! Don't.

Looking good!

[tribologist]

Is the engine box open in the front on the Deluxe or is there a separate panel that goes there? Labor day is getting close... Let me know if you need a bottom plug. I got a lathe..

[tribologist]

About what I figured… waterline 1” below floorboards. Give or take.

You can see the water injection fitting on the exhaust elbow is only about 3” above the floorboard. That puts the waterline about 4” lower. Vetus says if it’s less than 6”… it’s vented loop installation time.

Done deal. No need to twist my arm. Better safe than sorry. I don’t want sea water siphoning into my engine anytime soon!

Still making progress. Just installed a new VHF radio with a dedicated GPS module. No need to turn the GPS or chart plotter on when sending a distress call. The radio has its own GPS receiver.

Chipping away at my punch list.

One thing I learned this summer.. the water stay in the exhaust even when pulling up on the ramp. It kept spilling water for a long time when driving behind. Now I always start the engine after I get it out of the water to blow the exhaust somewhat dry. the Impeller is wet at that point so I don't think there is any issue. Going downhill and hitting the brakes could easily drive water into the manifold...

[hetek]

The engine box is open at the front as shown but there is a 3/4” space between it and the bulkhead. I fastened a frame of 2x2 Ipe to the bulkhead to fill the space and it also gives support to the box. Solid as a rock!

Good point about the cooling water in the exhaust… The water lock is at the lowest point of my exhaust system. I’m replacing its drain plug with a small stainless steel ball valve so I can drain it easily. I’ll let the keel bilge pump pump the drainage overboard.

My dad just turned 90 yesterday. He and my mom (86 years young) are both eager to see me launch the Albin. I can’t disappoint!

Bonus is that I can enjoy the reduced dockage rates after Labor Day. Gotta look at the bright side.

[hetek]

And thanks for the offer about the plug, Ulf.

I do have the Garboard plug but need the assistance of my son to hold the fasteners inside the boat while I install it. The “assisting son” is the hard part!

[tribologist]

If I took mine out, the original M15x1 plug would not go back in…. Did you paint the outside by the way? The Admiral have expressed desire of hull and topside paint…. Im resisting.. its easy to make it look worse

[tribologist]

Its a ” Dyvika” if its M15x1.. that is as odd of a thread you ever will find. Its as common as a #11-32 or 19/32-26….