Oil Leak on 6LP

[Tree]

And finally we have a reply from Yanmar!

Hi Lee

Yanmar say it is not listed as a part number ,you will have to measure the old one , then we can match it to the list available below.





27243-120000 12mm

27243-160000 16mm

27243-200000 20mm

27243-220000 22mm

27243-250000 25mm

27243-280000 28mm

27243-300000 30mm

27243-400000 40mm



Pete

[RobS]

Are they threaded or are they pressed or tapped in like a freeze-out or welch plug?

[Tree]

I'm assuming they are just tapped in like any other core plug Rob, once I get a lead time back on delivery from the Stealership I shall remove the old one and let you know then.

One thing I think I may do once the new one goes in is pack the top with high temp grease. Hopefully that should stop any water settling in there again.

[Tree]

....and the saga continues


I need the 16mm one and there are none in the Yanmar EU network.

So I call Mack Boring - None in the States.

Worldwide, there are 4 in Japan. Good job I have an engineering workshop and will have to make the part now

[Tree]

Well, it carries on....

Closer investigation reveals that the fuel pump will need to be removed which almost certainly means engine out however....

What are the chances of a man walking into your workshop this morning wanting the sealing face of the timing gear for a Yanmar 6LP STE skimmed?

So I ask the chap what state the engine is in, he is currently rebuilding it and has it on a stand in his workshop less than a mile down the road - naturally I asked if I could pop in to have a look at it.

The result is, the fuel pump may not need to come off, but the raw water pump will and that will give about 1" of access to the plug

As you can see, this is the engine that was on the stand with the raw water pump removed, the plug sits over at about 10 degrees.

photo.JPG

Now back to finding the plug as access is limited and not very easy to get a bore gauge in to measure - I've just got off the phone to Toyota and it appears to be part number 11431B. It is fitted when the engine is manufactured, pre supply to Yanmar hence why Yanmar only have 4 worldwide.

So in a nutshell, hopefully by next weekend, Hurricane force winds permitting (its lousy over here) We might be able to go a blow the cobwebs away and give the boat a run out!

[Tree]

Well its arrived - all fitted by just removing the raw water pump in the end, though that may not have needed doing as I'd shown the engineer an easy access route via the fish hold!

Only downside, when it was fitted it didn't go in straight first time, as a result when we started the engine up the new plug moved by about 10 thou (.25mm) and started spewing oil. The engineer wasn't happy with trying to fit it again and asked me to order another couple so we can be sure its spot on tight.

Once the old one was removed, as suspected there was a pin hole in it but thankfully the previous owner instead of doing a proper job of repairing it decided to repair it with chemical metal

Of course once that failed it was game over.

Until thursday, fingers crossed....

[Tree]

Well another go was had at fitting a new one again today - everything seemed perfect, ran the engine for a few minutes then it started to leak again!!!

So once again that one was removed and the bore was cleaned up and a new one fitted with sealant. I shall start the engine up tomorrow morning to see if this one has worked but if I am honest, i'm not confident that it will and the bullet is going to have to be bitten and the engine removed to do the job properly.

If the plug wasn't on an angle of about 10 degrees then it would be an easy fix, just that 10 degrees stops the tool we've made up to fit it foul the fuel pump.

I suppose I've got to look at this with an every cloud has a silver lining attitude and it means that any corrosion issues on the engine can be addressed and a fresh coat of paint can be applied all over should it need to be pulled - something I wasn't planning on this year.

[Tree]

Any tips on removing a Yanmar from an Albin 28?

You can guess that the third attempt didn't work.

[jleonard]

I would like to be able to offer a solution, but I really do not understand where this plug goes.
But I will take a stab at it...
Can you simply (drill and) tap the plug hole and use a screw to seal it? I have drilled and tapped into an engine on several occasions and chips CAN be controlled so they don't go inside. You do this by pressurizing the engine inside with approx 5 psi and the chips blow out.

[Tree]

I would like to be able to offer a solution, but I really do not understand where this plug goes.
But I will take a stab at it...
Can you simply (drill and) tap the plug hole and use a screw to seal it? I have drilled and tapped into an engine on several occasions and chips CAN be controlled so they don't go inside. You do this by pressurizing the engine inside with approx 5 psi and the chips blow out.

I've even considered this option myself - sadly due to the location being behind the fuel pump there is no way of getting in there with anything large.

Also with this being on an oil gallery, pressurising the system would be messy and ultimately easier to remove the engine.

[jleonard]

[quote="TreeI've even considered this option myself - sadly due to the location being behind the fuel pump there is no way of getting in there with anything large.

Also with this being on an oil gallery, pressurising the system would be messy and ultimately easier to remove the engine.[/quote]

The times I have drilled into engines have been into oil galleries. Pressurize the engine thru the crancase vent system, grease the tools heavily, it will work.
As far as being behind the pump...that is why they make long drills. Make yours by wleding the drill to a rod, make the tap like that too.

Sell them as a "tool kit" for reapiring the Yanmar engines.

[Tree]

I know exactly where you are coming from and appreciate the ideas, being a precision engineer I really have scratched my head on this one to come up with a solution that is a permanent fix and one I can rely on when I am 40 miles out in the English Channel.

I've bitten the bullet and assuming they can fit me in, the boat is being hauled on saturday morning and the engine coming out on Monday - it also gives a chance to also go over the engine with a needle gun and get rid of any nasty corrosion areas that there might be. With any luck the engine will go back in looking brand new.

Annoyingly the weather for this weekend looks good and i've just had the autopilot wired up today ready to try it out!

Suppose having the boat out gives me a chance also to fit the Raymarine Dragonfly thats been sitting on my desk for months!

[tdsull]

I found a pin hole oil leak through a bolt last weekend. Not in the same location as you are describing in this post. Reviewing the service manual this looks like the oil cooler cover plate.???

Location of the picture is down and to the left of the oil filter.

You can see the bolt in the lower right hand corner of picture, it's shinny and drippy.

Is this a similar issue?

[Tree]

Mine was the core plug behind the fuel pump that had a pin hole in it. Another member on here recently was able to replace his without need to pull the engine.

[tdsull]

I have found an oil leak on the cooler. Looks like its coming through a the oiler cooler cover bolt.
Any thoughts on this one? I am set up to meet the mechanic in the next day or so.
Reading through the service manual they are saying the timing belt and fuel injector need to be removed.
Is this a job that requires the engine to be pulled?