Broken driveshaft does anyone have the dimensions?

[Jeremyvmd]

use a real tach first! harbor freight has a decent photo tach for cheap...I would get one and use it.

Yes the holes in the bearing get drilled through the two holes already in the housing - 1/2" IIRC

My seal (norscot) was very easy to get to with the motor there. how easy it is to replace depends on the shaft and seal - but you will have to pull the shaft so now is the time.

you need IIRC a 1.5" id, 2" od 6" long cutless bearing. i got mine from deep blue yacht sales, made by duramaxx marine (80-90 bux)

Dripless shaft seals are serviceable - mine would have been about 75 bux to service, but we decided to just replace the whole system (350ish) as it was original to the boat...cheap insurance.

My cutless housing has been out several times. both by me and the marina, and has been fine. However the last time I checked with BA there was a bit of a wait on them.

[RobS]

No problem accessing the shaft seal by taking out the drop in deck boxes and laying down in there. Just have a helper there if possible to pass things up and down and grab you by your feet to pull you out when needed.

99% you have the Tides Strong Seal. $40 for the replacement lip seal. Your not doing the assembly, just the rubber lip seal. It's held in the housing with a retaining ring. Once the shaft is out just mark the fiberglass shaft log with a marker and remove the two clamps holding the boot on the log and remove the seal assembly. A few minutes to swap out the seal and reinstall the assembly back on the log. It comes with the "hat" tool that gets seated in the new seal so when you slide the slotted end of the shaft through you don't nick the seal. The seal should be part number LIP SEAL 1500. "1500" represents 1.5" shaft. You can search it on their website.

https://www.tidesmarine.com/

The coupler is known as the 500A split coupler by Buck Algonquin.

As to the prop.... not an ideal time to phototach the engine. My recommendation would be to go with a 19x18 with medium cup. You cannot under-prop these engines, you can only over-prop them...

[socalmike]

You will probably be removing the stern tube and if that is the original you may be looking at a replacement from Buck Algonquin. It is not protected by a zinc and the inside lip which centers it undergoes galvanic deterioration. If it is you should contact them immediately. I have been waiting 3 months for the bearing holder that goes on the skeg bar as they do not keep them in stock and it has to be cast.

They have them stocked. I just got one 2 weeks ago.

[socalmike]

I just did all this. Call me wed am. I am in ca. So not your early am!! 858 220 8947. Mike.

[socalmike]

I just did all this. Call me wed am. I am in ca. So not your early am!! 858 220 8947. Mike. Or call tonight.

[RobS]

Mike, nice offer but why not put your experience and assistance here, so all can share and learn? That's what the technical side of these forums are all about and without that they would be useless...

[socalmike]

Good point. Yes. I pulled the shaft, coupler, dripless and stern bearing housing. All went without fail. My stern bearing housing collar had about 25% left. I added small zincs to the new one which I will change monthly. My marina eats zincs.

One issue I found was that the shaft was riding low in the stern tube. Not hitting the tube but to close for comfort. I raised the front of the motor a bit so the shaft was centered and I could spin the shaft freely by hand.

I spoketo the OP today and went through the process as long as propping for proper rpm.

Mike

[RobS]

Great. So between all the info that has been posted here, my pics and your phone call he's certainly not going into this blind..

[gfuller]

Yes! I think I'm good to go.... Still at the boat yard untouched. I'm pulling it tomorrow or the next day and doing this myself. They said it would be another month before I'm in the water... not acceptable.

[gfuller]

Just got the boat to my buddy's house. I'm.having Atlantis make the shaft and Acme is shipping out a nibral 20x17 4 blade prop with light cup. These guys are awesome. I spoke with Ray from Atlantis and Jim from Acme and feel I'm in the very best hands. I'll be sure to update.

[Jeremyvmd]

Out of curiosity what the prop set you back?

[gfuller]

List price is at $2000, actual estimate is $1500-$1600.

[RobS]

Just be careful with "light cup". The trailing edge of the skeg on the 28TE is not a streamlined design in the way that it was left "squared off". The true downeast built boats have a tapered trailing edge to the keel to clean up the water flow that the prop sees. Cup takes care of turbulence. I tried getting a few "free" rpms from taking my cup from med to light and was not happy with the results. She was not as smooth nor responsive....

[gfuller]

Good point, Rob - thank you for mentioning. I'll bring that up with Acme today.

So I got the shaft out after breaking a couple of gear pullers (forward coupler took all the time). Let me know what you think of the cutlass housing and cutlass condition. I plan on changing out the cutlass just because it will save some time in the long run. The tube on the housing looks to be in pretty good shape with the exception of the end of it deteriorating a bit as pictured.





And this one's for you, Rob - driveshaft in the car

[Jeremyvmd]

The cutless housing looks reusable to me. Not too badly dinged up or eaten away. I would replace the bearing, no reason not to and it will seat to the new shaft better