Removing rear section of deck for access

[Cape Codder]

I just spent several hours removing the drain tubing that leads from the deck hatches to the transom thru-hulls. The check valves were completlely clogged with debris and didn't drain.
This is a real touch job if you only use the rear hatches (whew!)
After cleaning out the hoses, and checkvalves, I found that the starboard side drain hose leaks at the transom.
It is virtually impossibe to see or get to that area thru the hatches.
Plus the diesel fuel fill hose it right in the way. It seems like a lot of work to get this repaired. But if I don't, water from the deck will be leaking into the bilge.
In order to get access, it would require the removal of the rear deck section.

Question: How difficult is it to remove that aft deck?

I looks like 9-10 large SS phillips head screws, and the silicone beading around the section. I would also need to remove the drain tubes in the rear acess hatches.
If its not too difficult to remove, what do you do with the silicone beading?
Remove and replace?
If I do this, it will also give me much better access to the shut-off valve for the raw water thru-hull that is frozen open. I don't like this from a
safety standpoint, it needs to be freed up.
I have taken off the outside clamshell strainer, and sprayed lubricant up the hole to help get things started, but still can't budge the valve handle.
If anyone has removed this rear deck section, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

[Capt Paul]

Cape Codder,

I watched my mechanic do this once on my boat. He removed all the screws and then use a utility knife to score the calking. Go as deep as you can into the calking with the knife. At this point he opened the middle hatch and stood in it with his back to the transom straddling the steering post and put his hands into the other hatch ways grabbing under the hinged end fo the doors and started pulling up. He gave a few jerks and the seam along the transom released and he slowly lifted up. I then helped him pick up the deck and place it on the dock. That was it. I was impressed. I did cringe some when he was pulling up on the deck. He had obviously done this before on a similar deck.

Easier said then done but that was the process. There are some pictures in the pictures section that show the rear deck off. Here is the link.

Good luck!
Paul Zahra

viewtopic.php?t=572

[Capt Paul]

Forgot to mention,

The old silicone beading will need to be cleaned off and replaced. I used acetone to clean it off. Take your time as it will take you a while to clean it all off.

Paul

[Cape Codder]

Paul,
Thanks for the tips!
Looks like I have an unexpected poject.

[elad9000]

I too removed the rear decking on our 28TE. Same procedure - remove screws, cut caulk with utility knife, clean off ALL old caulk, do what needs to be done, rescrew and recaulk.

All went well but now I am seeing some what looks like mold in the new caulk. Also see this on a neighbors brand new boat. Is there such a thing as mold free caulk?

[Yearwood]

I removed the aft deck on our 2001 28' TE two years ago. Easy. Follow the instruction previously given. However, I do not have check valves in he drain lines from the hatch comings. Is the is a (useless) features added in newer models?

[Cape Codder]

Update:
Well, it's good news.
I did NOT need to lift the aft section of the deck after all.
I tried today to get to the drain hose at the transom, and with the right socket wrenches, it was successful. The entire project was done "blind" AND "left handed"!!
In total, 3 hoses had splits and were leaking, and the check valves were blocked with debris. Glad that's done!!