Help me spec a new windlass

[Ben423]

I don't drink Kool-aid either. But I can recommend Pina Colada flavored Tang. It goes quite well with any quality rum.

Regarding anchors, I was around long before the great Manson-Rocna war of the early 21st century. A pointless conflict that neither side won. But it was the physics of that type of anchor that seemed to me to be an improvement over the plow shaped Deltas and CQR's. Minney's, our local marine surplus emporium has hundreds of used old-style anchors available for very small money if that's the type you like.

[Nancy]

Getting back on topic here . . . (we can start a new thread on anchors if we want to) . . .

Kevin and Joe, using the Pro-Fish 700 (which has the free-fall capability), do you have to give much thought to powering down the anchor other than simply using the down switch? The manual has a couple of caveats (https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/fi ... %20WEB.pdf):

-------------------------------------------------------
1. Pro-Fish only
Check unit is not in manual mode and
plunger is disengaged/up position.
2. Release any anchor locks.
3. Engage the circuit breaker/isolator.
Pro-Fish only
When releasing the anchor, press DOWN
button for 2 seconds until the anchor is
under freefall. If the clutch was left in
a locked position the anchor will move
almost immediately, if unlocked it could
take several seconds to fully re-engage
the internal clutch.
• NOTE: Pressing the DOWN button for over
5 seconds will result in a longer clutch
re-engagement time during the next UP
command).
If using a rope/chain rode, motor
astern to create the desired scope.
Once scope has been created press the
UP button continuously until freefall
stops. It normally takes several seconds
to fully re-engage the internal clutch
mechanism, locking the windlass.
• NOTE: Failure to lock the windlass clutch
could result in rope/chain creeping out.

[Pitou]

Getting back on topic here . . . (we can start a new thread on anchors if we want to) . . .

Kevin and Joe, using the Pro-Fish 700 (which has the free-fall capability), do you have to give much thought to powering down the anchor other than simply using the down switch?

No more real thought given than normal unless utilizing the freefall feature. The manual / instructions are more complicated than reality.

Non-Freefall Use (manual mode): use like any other windlass :
1). release anchor chain tensioner/lock
2). engage circuit breaker
3). press Down button to pay out rode

Freefall Use:
1). release anchor chain tensioner/lock
2). Press down on locking button / plunger on gypsy break and brass plug will pop out (being in this position will disengage the brake while windlass is paying out / falling
3). press Down button .. in 2 plus seconds the brake will disengage as rode begins to pay out and ancor will go into freefall
4). once in freefall let go of the Down button and anchor will continue to fall and rode will continue to pay out
5). Once rode slows or stops paying out this means that the anchor has hit bottom. Re engage the brake by pressing the up button when you have desired scope or wish to control as in manual mode.

As you can see, you will have to go to the bow to engage the freefall and this may somewhat negate or add time to your intent of using this as an emergency feature.

Pro-Fish.jpg

Pro-Fish overview.jpg

[Nancy]

Thanks, Kevin. This is great info. Love the annotated photo.

[Norseman]

. I have actually never drug anchor.

Ouch: I missed that one:
Obviously a newbie, or a liar: Any boater with a few thousand miles under his (or her) keel has dragged anchor.

[Norseman]

46A8D544-5844-497F-B8A9-28B212BB4F7B.jpeg

Found a better picture of the windlass:

[Nancy]

Found a better picture of the windlass:

Yes, that's a good one. Did you add the cleats alongside the windlass? Do you remember where you bought them? Also did you reverse the anchor chocks? It's amazing how photos I see with them backwards like ours.

[Norseman]

Found a better picture of the windlass:

Yes, that's a good one. Did you add the cleats alongside the windlass? Do you remember where you bought them? Also did you reverse the anchor chocks? It's amazing how photos I see with them backwards like ours.

Cleats, chocks and windlass was already on the boat when I bought it.
I replaced chain and anchor and had to custom make the inverted U above the anchor roller to make room for the Rockna.

[Yearwood]

Lewmar Profish was a direct replacement for the Simpson Lawrence which was an addition we put on post purchase. In the original we did not have to take the pulpit off and in the replacement again we did not have to take anything off and holes lined up well ... power cable slightly off.

[Sisu22]

Nancy, I have the same setup as Norseman and am happy with it. Profish 700 non-free-fall pulling 80 feet of 1/4 chain attached to a 15Kg Rocna on one end and about 200' 3 braid on the other. I don't really anchor in super deep water so have not missed the freefall feature. I believe I have an older model of the windlass that has a removable gypsy if I ever needed to drop in an a hurry without DC power. I could also just pick up the chain from on top of the gypsy and let it go.

I don't have cleats next to the windlass, but would like to.

[Nancy]

Ben, earlier in this thread, you mentioned attaching the anchor rode to a bridle that you rig to the mooring cleats. I'd be interested in learning more about that setup. Care to elaborate?

[Ben423]

Bridle is made of 1/2" nylon 3-strand. it is 25' long with a loop at the midpoint for a chain hook. I tie off each end on the two mooring cleats then hook the anchor chain. I ease more chain out until the load is taken up by the bridle. If I'm on the rope part of my anchor rode, I use a prusik knot on the rope and just string a 25' length of 1/2" nylon 3-strand through it, secured to the same mooring cleats. The prusik is a versatile knot that I use anytime I want to hold a rope without tying a loop in it.

[Nancy]

Bridle is made of 1/2" nylon 3-strand. it is 25' long with a loop at the midpoint for a chain hook. I tie off each end on the two mooring cleats then hook the anchor chain. I ease more chain out until the load is taken up by the bridle. If I'm on the rope part of my anchor rode, I use a prusik knot on the rope and just string a 25' length of 1/2" nylon 3-strand through it, secured to the same mooring cleats. The prusik is a versatile knot that I use anytime I want to hold a rope without tying a loop in it.

I had to google the prusik knot. Great! Now I can go mountain-climbing *and* tie off the anchor rode. Is your prusik also made of 1/2" 3-strand?

[Ben423]

The rope used for the prusik is 5/16" Vectran single braid. The ends are spliced together to make a loop about 12" - 14" diameter. I used Vectran only because I had some laying around from my yacht racing days. You can use any reasonably strong rope and it doesn't have to be spliced, it can be tied. The flexibility of the smaller diameter single braid allows it to easily grab the anchor rode.

[Nancy]

Dag, would you do me a favor and measure one of the cleats next to your windlass? I'm guessing they're smaller than 10". I'd really like to mount 1-2 cleats on the pulpit, not on the deck. The ears on the 10" cleats are nearly 3" long.