rough around the edges Albin 25

[ssrig]

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10152

Well here is a thread on just that.

[kerrye]

We use a 25lb Mantus on our A25.

[DesertAlbin736]

Thanks, Do you find this satisfactory or are you wanting more? 22lb Rocna, stainless swivel, 1/4" chain, all chain, Lewmar V700 windlass over self launching bow roller??? That would be nice but $$.

All chain would of course be nice, but also be mindful of the amount of weight that would add to the bow. An earlier post remarked about the A25 being a 7,000 lb boat. It's more in the range of +/- 5,000 lbs depending on how heavily loaded with gear. We have weighed our boat & trailer on a truck scale before, with a 70 lb dinghy hanging off the back and the trailer disconnected from the truck & it weighed 6,580 lbs. If you're thinking in metric, that's a shade under 3,000 kg. So allowing 1,500 to 1,800 lbs for the trailer puts boat weight at roughly 4,800 to 5,000 lbs.

Certainly a Mantus or Rocna would be nice. I would think a Delta/Plow we do as well, but would probably not go for a CQR with swiveling shank. As a secondary anchor we have an 18 lb Danforth clone with 6 feet of chain & 120 feet of road. We sometimes use that on our lake as a stern anchor to anchor fore & aft pointing north for the prevailing northerly downslope winds that occur like clockwork between 1 or 2 AM & noon. That way we don't swing and snag on the old submerged desert shrubs & trees that are still there from before they built a new dam back in the 1990s & raised the lake level. Unlike the Pacific Northwest, we don't have to worry about 12 foot tides.

[ssrig]

We use a 25lb Mantus on our A25.

How much chain do you use with it if any?

[ssrig]

I have been busy the last few days, I mostly spend time looking at stuff and finding some good and some bad.

I did get going on cutting down the cockpit table, here it is on the operating table, 8" will be removed.

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Cut.

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Re glue trim piece and glue and screw some backing bits and extension bits and also re glue the other side trims.

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I also did some pipe and fuel line re routing, there is a shelf that the muffler sits on. Under that shelf I am assuming the folks who did the engine install ran the fuel line to the Racor underneath that shelf twisting around the water input for the PSS and making a sharp turn up and over the prop shaft! It also had two of the exhaust pipes sitting on it and was chafing. I re routed and moved the muffler to starboard to ease some pressure on the large hoses, they were binding quite a bit in the engine cover. It looks like it was due to some iron pipe fittings on that make the 90' turn have a longer radius and push the hose to port resulting in the binding. So a new 90' elbow will be on the list and next time I'm in there I'll swap it out along with a new fuel line from the tank to the Racor, Racor to the engine is new.

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[ssrig]

I guess this should have been in my first post, Number 2282, I think that a lucky number combo.

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I dug out the spare prop, it is a 17 x 14, while cleaning out the glove compartment I found a plastic sleeve, after looking at it and figuring out what it resembled I slid it into the prop shafts tapered hole?

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Fits like a glove and it was used so ?? I need to remove the prop that is on the boat and I need a puller to get it off but it looks like the spare props hole is a few mm's larger. Not sure if this will work out but there has to be a reason that the spare is not on the boat but a worn out small one is, this would be the reason, my guess. If it does fit it might be a candidate for a re pitch and it might work.

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Vic Props online calculator recommends an 18.6" x 13.4 prop, I will be calling them this week, An 18" prop would fit with around 1/2" -3/4" gap from the rudder support. Does that seem like enough distance?

[ssrig]

It might not look real tidy but it is much better, best of all now I know what hose does what, some were hidden and routed under a larger hose and could not see it only feel it. Tidy not clean! I need to get in there and clean up that bilge.
While I had the muffler and shelf off the PSS was easier to work on so re positioned the collar and refaced the surfaces with 600 grit, the collar was in need of a reset we will see if that helps.
Note the iron pipe top right, must have been recently replaced as it was not corroded.

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The bracket bolts for the fuel filter/fuel primer pump are broken off and I will need to easy out and replace them, my guess is someone priming with a foot and not a hand and pushed too hard, the space next to the pump is tight. I will attack that tomorrow.

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Says its useful life is 10 years or 1000 hours!! Geez I hope it goes longer than that!


Looking at the piece cut from the cockpit table, might re purpose that for a little shelf/drink holder.

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The mast compression pole and table mechanism are removed, that pole is a thick stainless pole, dunno what I'll do with that.

[ssrig]

dunno why the engine pic is sideways

[WillieC]

Welcome to iPhone/AOG interface. Let us know if you figure it out.

Maybe it is just me... It looks like your exhaust elbow is on the port side of the boat. It runs back to the muffler via the 90 elbow. Crosses through the muffler, 90s again and goes forward back into the engine compartment? Then what? How does the exhaust get out of the boat? Mine uses the handy dandy hole behind your transducer and heads for the stern.

[ssrig]

Hmm, did I say starboard, the iron pipe is port side, vetus 90 starboard.
This view show the routing, after the exhaust it heads for the riser in the starboard cockpit storage hole.

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This one.

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Then heads aft along the original (I think) route to the transom .

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[DesertAlbin736]

Nice looking engine. The exhaust routing is a bit strange looking. But I guess it would go under the quarterberth floor panel & not interfere the ability for someone to sleep in the bunk. Am constantly amazed at the variations between individual boats, especially those that have been repowered by something other than OEM Volvos.

Here's that same space on our boat. Space is also occupied by two bilge pumps, one an electric belt driven diaphragm pump at upper right, the other a manual Whale pump at lower left. Suction inlet hoses for both pumps are routed to the bottom of the keel sump.

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Overhead view of engine & exhaust hose routing. Since Yanmar 3GM engines have exhaust outlets to starboard & early A25's had exhaust to port, the hose has to cross over starboard to port.

Aqua Drive.jpg

Vernalift muffler, photo facing forward. A little bit of the muffler can be seen at lower right in the top photo. Not visible in these photos, but there is a check/flapper valve under the port side quarterberth between the muffler and the transom outlet as well as a ball shutoff valve.

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[ssrig]

very clean in there, definitely not as many hoses as mine. Are you saying you have a back check valve along your exhaust route? What kind would that be? To prevent exhaust water getting to the engine?

I had two of those belt driven bilge pumps on my last boat, they are good in the way individual components can be exchanged and not the whole unit but the diaphragms are easily clogged or left open by debris. One was for the shower pump and needing cleaning often due to hair keeping the diaphragm ajar.
That is a filter prior to the pump right?

[WillieC]

"Hmm, did I say starboard, the iron pipe is port side"...No, I got it wrong. Still can't tell my port from my starboard.

The original route to the stern is the hole by your transducer. Your situation, like DA's, is the crossover required by the exhaust location on the engine vs. that of the originally installed engine. Crossing over in that small space eats a lot of real estate.

Looking at another boat that is selling cheap, part of the price reflection is just this kind of issue. The new-ish engine has a much larger exhaust hose requirement than the original 1-3/4" (44mm?), which means a bit of body and fender work in fiberglass. Or taking a page from your installation. If I ever get around to reworking my exhaust, top of the list is to figure out how to do it "right". Lots of info and links here at AOG on this very subject. Start with Kerrye's near sinking of his boat at first launch.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9277&p=58931&hilit ... ing#p58931

[DesertAlbin736]

Are you saying you have a back check valve along your exhaust route? What kind would that be? To prevent exhaust water getting to the engine?

Yes, that's correct. I don't have any photos of that, and the shutoff ball valve would be difficult to get to in a pinch since the aft cabin is being used as storage space for luggage & various other items during cruises. I'd have to look at it again to see what brand, but is likely from the same manufacturer as the muffler. All that inherited from two generations back of previous owners when the current engine was installed sometime back around 1990.

I had two of those belt driven bilge pumps on my last boat, they are good in the way individual components can be exchanged and not the whole unit but the diaphragms are easily clogged or left open by debris. One was for the shower pump and needing cleaning often due to hair keeping the diaphragm ajar.
That is a filter prior to the pump right?

Yes, that is also correct. The inlet strainer can be seen at lower right in the top photo of the earlier post. It does tend to get clogged with crud from the bilge, but is easy to clean since the plastic sight glass/cap can be unscrewed to pull the mesh screen & clean it out.

The strainer is one similar to this:

bilge pump strainer.jpg

[ssrig]

Start with Kerrye's near sinking of his boat at first launch.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9277&p=58931&hilit ... ing#p58931


Wow! That was interesting to read. Odd series of events for sure, I did have something similar, not as bad, just similar on the first launch, I had the useable seacocks open to check for leaks and once in the water I checked the PSS area and raw water seacock and those were good, then went down into the front cabin and water was coming in through the sidewall of the seacock for the discharge of the head, I closed the valve and it held but I had the trailer waiting just incase. Haven't inspected that yet to see what has happened but looks like water froze inside the ball valve and pushed the side out where I assume the ball swipes by. Or its corrosion, looks like a brass ball valve.

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Made me make sure I had some bits and pieces for bungs and plugs onboard and bilge pumps working!