Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

[Nancy]

Can someone tell what the hand pump is for on the Stb. side cockpit?

It's sometimes called the heart attack pump. Because you'll have a heart attack while your boat is sinking, and you'll also have a heart attack if you use that pump!

[Norseman]

My second question would have been make and model, and I see the answer up thread. My first question - about access - is what did you have to take apart to remove the old light, install the new one and get to the wiring. Yes, LED is good. I long ago swapped out most of the bulbs that we use while at anchor.

Not much to take apart:
1:) Remove old light.
2:) Hang on to the 12 Volt wires before they disappear down the hole.
3) Drill holes for new light, screws, connectors and silicone ready.
4) Instal new light.. (I did not use heat shrink connectors, dry location)

[Norseman]

Can someone tell what the hand pump is for on the Stb. side cockpit?

Perhaps wrong thread, but if you are asking about the hand pump on my boat, or any 28TE with a similar configuration:
Manual Bilge pump:
In case everything else fails.
The standard Albin 28TE came with 3 electric/automatic bilge pumps: The manual pump may never be needed, but if the leak, or breach is big enough so that the 3 electric pumps can not keep up, the hand pump of course may save the day. Or maybe not.
Had a similar pump on a previous sailboat,
It was hardly used and as a result the cast aluminum pump was corroded beyond saving as salt water had been sitting for moths after every pump “test”.
Glad to have the manual pump, just in case, but not sure it will save the day unless another crew runs down in the bilge with plugs, wedges, epoxy and blankets to stop the leak while I am pumping,

[Nancy]

Not much to take apart:
1:) Remove old light.
2:) Hang on to the 12 Volt wires before the disappear down the hole.
3) Drill holes for new light, screws, connectors and silicone ready.
4) Instal new light.. (I did not use heat shrink connectors, dry location)

Ah, I see Step 2 is key to not having to dismantle the boat. I'll take a good look at it sometime soon.

[Jforesta]

Very nice job
Where did you get the grommets?

[Norseman]

Very nice job
Where did you get the grommets?

Uh, which grommets and which project or repair are you commenting on?

[Norseman]

Found at least 4 loose bonding wires in the stern under deck.
On the Port side they corroded off the 2 salt water intake seacocks.
Tried to clean the old screws with a wire brush, but they were too far gone, had to drill out both screws, Cut the corroded end of both wires and install new eye-terminals. Tried to heat shrink, but less successful.
Will seal the cable end of the terminal with silicone and the metal end and screw/washer end with Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

Loose bonding wire in the center compartment for the Garboard drain plug.


No idea where the Starboard bonding wire goes to, will crawl around some more and find out, or hire a midget.

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[Tree]

While you’re there - have a look and see if the stanchion posts for the swim platform are wired. I’ve wired up three boats so far since none of them had any sign of being wired up!

[Norseman]

While you’re there - have a look and see if the stanchion posts for the swim platform are wired. I’ve wired up three boats so far since none of them had any sign of being wired up!

Roger, will do, but why is that important?
Does it create corrosion on the SS supports for the swim platform, OR for the bronze thru hull fittings?
Perhaps a small zinc on the stanchions will solve the problem, if there is a problem.?

[Tree]

The stanchions corrode but more importantly the bolts going thru the hull corrode. Found the heads of all my bolts were almost gone! Only spotted it because the stanchions were rusting under the antifoul despite them being stainless steel. They need to be daisy chained together inside the boat then connected to the earth via one of the seacocks.

[Norseman]

The stanchions corrode but more importantly the bolts going thru the hull corrode. Found the heads of all my bolts were almost gone! Only spotted it because the stanchions were rusting under the antifoul despite them being stainless steel. They need to be daisy chained together inside the boat then connected to the earth via one of the seacocks.

Aha, got it now, thx.
Will take a look today, but suspect all is good as this boat have lived a
dry life on a lift for 17 years.
That being said, the bonding wires corroded because they were the wrong kind: In this application tinned Marine grade wire should have been used.

[RobS]

Bonding may help but the real issue is crevice corrosion when it comes to the rust stains and failing bolts at platform stanchions. All due to the properties of the stainless and the environment it's living in (oxygen, temperature, etc). When I purchased T-R I verified her bonding system at all points. The only issue I had with her was corrosion of a couple platform bolts. Luckily access was good for replacement...

[Tree]

Bonding has helped me massively - I replaced all the bolts for A4 80 knowing that will be 316 stainless steel. Now the bolts are in really good order and i no longer get any corrosion issues on the stanchions.

It did surprise me that with the Albin build quality, the stanchions were never bonded in the first place, I could understand one boat but not three.

Now if there is a way i can bond the shafts on the trim tab actuators.....

[Nancy's Promise]

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Some upgrades I made to my Albin 28. New carpet, granite countertop, and added a cushion where people would always sit.

[Bounty Hunter]

that cushion infront of the port seat isnt a bad idea - nice one