MD17C in A25

[WillieC]

That sounds a lot like how mine started stone cold. And I guess I must say we really hadn't subjected the old MD3B to that much cold weather, being fair weather boaters, so maybe it is not that much different. I did get the 3B figured out as to its starting procedure. It would start in two or three cranks of the engine, during the warm half of the year, even with horrible compression, even on the first start of the day using the cold start procedure. What I really need to do is get this engine in the boat and give it a proper break-in before making too many conclusions. This week I work on modifying the engine mounts and coming up with some kind of mount for an aux water pump. These piggy back pumps are a bit of a pain and expensive when it really dies. The Spare engine, the one I have refreshed, had a funky modified barndoor hinge pump mount that bolted onto the exhaust manifold and also used thermostat housing bolts. Those fine fellows thought that a 5/16" bolt was close enough to an 8mm bolt so they were mixed in with the lot. Kill me now. I will come up with a more usable arrangement. I may even try to match pulleys so as to not eat belts. The aux pump is a nice bronze centrifugal pump that should work perfectly for circulating anti-freeze. No head to lift, circulation only and then go back to the single seawater pump that drives off the camshaft.

So, Steve, when cold say below 60F, you mention you have to crank a lot. Does it also blow black smoke prodigiously when it first starts under those conditions? For me, subsequent starts are easy because these iron VPs hold a lot of heat a long time.

[DesertAlbin736]

So, Steve, when cold say below 60F, you mention you have to crank a lot. Does it also blow black smoke prodigiously when it first starts under those conditions? For me, subsequent starts are easy because these iron VPs hold a lot of heat a long time.

Some black smoke, but not bad & clears right away. Otherwise this engine doesn't smoke at all under normal operating conditions & starting a warm engine. One overnight & stays warm enough to start right away. Two nights on the hook without running the engine takes a few cranks. Our lows lately have been barely below 50. Today's temp range is 68/51. No rain in sight for the foreseeable 10 day forecast. In fact we made it through the winter with no hard freezes here. Now we're into February & for all intents and purposes winter is over for us. Next scheduled outing is this coming weekend for the sailing club "Sweethearts Cruise" & poker run raft up.

[WillieC]

Engine is running about as good as I can get it. Hard starting in this cold(er) weather. Spent a couple days chasing my tail and fouling the engine oil with unburned fuel and soot so it has already had an oil and filter change. I guess I haven't really tried running in 30F weather, except for when we brought it down from Bellingham, and It wasn't that cold. Once it starts, subsequent starts are textbook easy, so that is good. On to engine mounts.

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Because of the longer transmission, the engine needs to move an inch and a half forward. This allows me to keep my existing shaft and all related equipment. Simply extending the mounts allows me to relocate the rubber baby buggy bumper mounts and keep the embedded mount nuts in the support stringers.

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Was going to add a gusset for reinforcement, but decided it should be strong enough as is. We'll see, I know whom to blame if not. Besides, it is already doubled up.

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[WillieC]

I wonder why the boat smells like a boat? Needs a little freshening up.

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And this is AFTER I wiped out the engine pan.

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[DesertAlbin736]

Progress!! You are putting together an album of prints of these photos I trust? Worthy of getting an article about it published in BoatUS Magazine.

[WillieC]

Aw shucks, Steve! I just hope I can remember how it all goes back together. I need to go back and review all you did for bottom paint. I posted on BC Albineers how to get this new, slimmer boat off the trailer. I distinctly remember seeing a picture of an A25 sitting in a driveway on keel blocks and bracing just like what is described in the Per Brohall Handbook. My thinking is that now that the boat is almost half a ton lighter, it might just be easier to slide off the trailer. That still leaves a few tons to deal with. Pfffttt! Gorgeous day here, today. Heard our first robins yesterday. Spring has sprung, sorta.

[DesertAlbin736]

My thinking is that now that the boat is almost half a ton lighter, it might just be easier to slide off the trailer. That still leaves a few tons to deal with. Pfffttt!

The idea is to slide the trailer out from under the boat. Do as much of the paint job as possible while the boat is on the trailer. You'll need to beg, borrow, or steal at least six hull stands, preferably eight. Then something to lift bow and stern off the trailer, possibly by first dropping the tongue jack as low as possible & supporting the stern, then lifting bow just enough to get a few inches clearance to slid the trailer out while setting stands and blocking the keel as you go. Some sort of crane & sling would be needed to lift the bow, but make sure there's something to keep the sling from damaging the toe rail, or lift by the bow eye. I kept that sling in place the whole time as an added measuer to make sure the boat wouldn't tip on the stands. I used cinder blocks and bottle jacks under the keel, but timbers would be better. And we used a fork lift to raise the stern since the bunks on my trailer go all the way aft. I hope not to have to repeat that job for a long time to come since we dry store our boat between outings.

[WillieC]

That is exactly the type of info I am looking for. I need to think this process through before I get halfway into it and drop the boat on its side. I may just figure out how to do it on the trailer, removing one skid at a time (mine has two on each side) and bracing the gunwale per Per (Brohall). Mainly because I don't have an overhead travel crane sitting in the driveway, though I can see the usefulness of one. We'll call it Yard Art and maybe the Starfleet Commander won't notice.
Steve, please post a link referencing your bottom paint job. I'm asking so it is NOT hijacking. I regard it all related to swapping my engine. Can I hijack my own posts? Maybe I should re name the original post. Something like 'Boat Stuff'. Then again, maybe a separate post could be worthwhile to some poor schmuck wandering in the wilderness, like me. If it gets too involved, like all things Albin, I may just do that.

[Beta Don]

When I bought my A27, it was sitting on six 55 gallon steel drums behind the PO's barn - We loaded in on a home made trailer and brought it from Phoenix to Biloxi where we unloaded it in my yard . . . . all without any lifting means other than a single hydraulic bottle jack. When I got my custom trailer built, we loaded it up again the same way

Getting a 7500 pound boat off a trailer and back on again isn't THAT hard for anyone with average spatial skills - You picture what needs to be moved and where and then you devise a way to do it, preferably while the Starfleet Commander is away shopping

I did the bottom one side at a time, using several 2 x 8's propped under the hull to deck joint on one side so I could remove the props which were under the hull and in the way of my paint rolling. Sanded to bare gelcoat, 4 coats of Interprotect 2000 and 3 coats of bottom paint and then on to the other side - Twice as many coats of each on the keel and rudder

Don

[WillieC]

That is about the conclusion I have come to, Don. One side at a time, should be fine. Hey, I got the engine out by myself! And yes, she will not be watching.

[WillieC]

Two questions:

1. How hard is this unused transducer to be removed? The lump on the outside of the hull is similarly shaped. Is the hole in the hull merely a round hole? The only attachment I see is the nut over the thread on the inside. Any direction would be helpful.

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2. Went to drain the tank today and Clunk! Suspected detached baffle so I removed the fuel gauge sender and that is the case. Do I really need the baffle on a ten gallon tank? I will be opening it up to remove and then finding a welder who can patch it back up. I may just put it back in if it's not that much difference. Yes, there is black crud in there so that will get cleaned out. Anything else i need to consider with the fuel pickups while I am in there? There are two separate pickups, one for the engine and one for the Espar heater. Don, you mentioned 5/8" minimum vent, correct?

Cleaning the bilge out while it is pouring cats and dogs, I noticed water dripping down from the fuel fill hose! But, it is on the outside of the hose, so I will be lifting the fill fitting on the deck when I rebed it like I have seen done elsewhere here, JT I think?

Have been pondering painting (or worse, gelcoating) the engine pan but the most sensible thing I have read was a comment by an even older geezer than myself who said something to the effect that he is the only one who will ever notice it. Mine also has some crazing in the finish which would be hell to prep and would peel off anyway, so done! There are a few dings in it I will repair but the saggy run in the crankcase paint will distract your attention from it. Right, Don?

[Beta Don]

The hole in the hull is round - What you see (above and below) is both halves of a block cut at the angle of the hull so the transducer remains vertical for the best view of the bottom. It's shaped like it is for minimal turbulence and drag. It won't come out easily - You'll need to cut the caulk as best you can, remove the nut on the inside and probably hit it using a block of wood and a 5 pound hammer. Not a big problem *if* you don't mind if the transducer gets destroyed in the process

My A27 came with a $350 bronze Furuno 'tri-ducer' (depth, speed and temp) with similar blocks as yours and rather than toss that expensive piece, I found an old black & while Furuno depth sounder which used the same plug as the one on the cable which displayed all three - Cost me $75. I also installed a transducer for my Garmin 740S so I had a 'back-up' depth sounder - Actually, I used the Garmin 95% of the time and the Furuno was the back-up. The speed function came in handy when figuring how much current we were bucking

My 70 gallon tank came with two baffles, so a I wouldn't think a 10 gallon tank with no baffle would be a big deal. Yes, the 5/8ths vent is the required size to allow air to escape while you're filling the tank - It's a slow, messy process if the vent is plugged . . . . ask me how I know

Yeah, you gotta get that ugly run off the bottom of your oil pan for sure - While the engine is out, gold plate that engine drip pan so that big hunk of iron you're installing will feel the love you have for it!!

Don

[WillieC]

Don, truly I am laughing out loud!
I have wondered if I ought to just live with the transducer. there is plenty of cable attached to it including the five or so pin end on it. How do i know what I have? I think it is also bronze.

[WillieC]

Got one decent day for painting before the monsoons returned. We usually get at least a week of very spring weather up in these here parts in Feb. So far, only a day or two at a time.

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The trained observer will note the unchanged engine pan. Gold plating, per Don's suggestion, is not in the Starfleet Commander's budget. Since it will be covered with The Green Grief, and would take ungodly prep for either re-gelcoating or paint, I have decided to leave bad enough alone. The other areas are exposed to one degree or another from time to time and they looked like hell, so massive cleaning and roughing up and low-tech paint. Zinsser 1-2-3 and Rustoleum Enamel, if I can get the primer to dry.

[Beta Don]

I used Interlux Bilge-Kote which is a medium gray - Hides dirt much better than white and it covers in one coat. I brushed it on every square inch of the engine room while the engine was out

Don