She Started

[stxray]

Back in May, I posted that I snagged an A25 Deluxe (viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9192 but was concerned because the PO stated that he and a diesel mechanic friend weren't able to get the engine started when last they tried.

First, there was some confusion over which engine was actually installed. The handbook the PO provided was for an AD21 but, he stated he thought it was an MD17C. Turns out, it's an MD3B. No glow plugs but does have compression release levers.

As a result of that earlier posting and the suggestions I received, I was able to get her running. Here's what I did...

1. I changed the oil and oil filter
2. I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel tank and removed the primary and fine fuel filters with the intention of replacing. However, when I pulled the fuel filters, they looked brand new so I did not replace them. I did remove them and clean any sediment from the bottom of the bowels.
3. Before reconnecting the fuel line and bleeding the system, I hooked up a battery and cranked the engine. First with the compression release levers closed, then open and then closed again to see if there was a difference and there was.
4. I then replaced the fuel filters filling each bowel with Sea Foam.
5. I placed the fuel line into a container of fresh, clean fuel and bled the fuel system using the lift pump and had no trouble bleeding the air from the filters and the injector pump. I found I was unable to use the lift pump to pump-out fuel at the injectors.
6. I placed the cooling water intake into a bucket of water.
7. Cranked the engine for about 30 sec; no start. I waited about a minute and hit the starter for about 10 sec. and whaa hoo, she started!

Once running, I found the exhaust hose at the elbow was split and she was spraying water. I cut it off and re-positioned it as a temporary fix. I let her run for about 20 mins. while checking for leaks. All seems to be in order.

Next up:
Replace the exhaust hose
Clean the fuel tank
Clean the bilge
Clean up the electrical wiring (ignition switch is flunky & would like to add an oil pressure gauge and hour meter)
Replace the floor boards

Loads more to do but that's my immediate to-do list.

[Nancy]

Very impressive! And lucky!

Onward!

[kerrye]

Very cool. If it started that quickly odds are the engine is in good condition. Did you notice the quantity of smoke immediately after starting and once it warmed up. That's another indicator of condition. The fact that you couldn't bleed the injectors with the lift pump is normal. That's the one from the DC craigslist ad?

[stxray]

Nancy: Thank you and yes; very lucky
Kerrye: I did get a little bit of white smoke when she started; nothing excessive. After she warmed up there was hardly any smoke at all. Yes, it's the one from the DC Craig's List. Hey, you just gave me an idea for her name..."DC Madam"

If anyone has advice/suggestions on replacing the exhaust hose and replacing the floor boards, I can use the help.

[kerrye]

My floorboards are just painted plywood. I haven't imagined a better alternative yet. I did paint them with a latex paint recently which was a mistake. It all flaked off within a month. Must have been a really good oil based on them already to cause the latex not to stick. Ipe boards would be maintenance free but pretty heavy and not a solid surface like plywood. But now that I think about the Ipe option I may take that route. You can buy exhaust hose by the foot from most marine suppliers. Defender had hose on sale recently when I bought some raw water inlet hose.

[WillieC]

Stxray, just found this post. All good news! MD3B is exactly what I have. All 5700 hours. Keep us posted. Rick

[stxray]

Kerrye:
Might you (or anyone else) know the outside diameter of the exhaust elbow of the MD3B? I'm thinking that would correlate to the inside diameter of the exhaust hose. I'm not at the boat so I can't measure it and I haven't been able to find the dimensions in any of the documentation I have or online.

Also, does anyone know if there is a replacement fuel filter or am I locked in to OEM?

Thanks in advance.
rs

[kerrye]

I don't know the exhaust hose size. If you go on the Wix filter site they have a crossover program. Put your OEM number in and it will tell you the WIX equivalent. http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/filterlookup.aspx

[RobS]

Good deal. You should change the primary filter regardless of how it looks, I'm sure the water blocking synthetic media breaks down or looses it's full chemical properties over time..

[WillieC]

OEM replacement: Baldwin PF 986 primary fuel filter. MD3B.
Let me check the old exhaust elbow rusting away in the shop. Better yet I have a chunk of exhaust hose in the garage. Closer for this old man.

1-3/4" hose. Fitting is a touch larger in order to make you sweat.
If your elbow has any little tiny streaks of rust on it, order a replacement. I thought it was just a loose hose clamp. These things destroy themselves from the inside and by the time you see it, game over.
Matt Morehouse of Old Marine Engine fame, and prolly a million other places, built his out of stainless wrinkle tube, which I was not at all familiar with. Just have your welding buddy weld a couple flanges on it, with a tube for injecting water at the south end and you're good to go. Or order from Volvo Penta US and a couple gaskets and it'll be here in a few days. There is a stainless one available from Europe, which i thought was pretty sweet, but still no one and done arrangement.

Hope this helps. Rick (WillieC)

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[DesertAlbin736]

Ray,

That's great news!!! Sounds like your gamble on the engine has paid off! Between you, Kerrye, WillieC, Mike Almvig & us we've got our own little coast to coast Albin 25 subgroup going here!

[stxray]

RobS:
Good point. I will most definitely change out both fuel filters. First, however, I'd like to drain the fuel tank ( it doesn't have that much) and clean the tank. I have no idea how old or what the condition of the fuel is but, why chance it and why gunk up new filters?

Rick: Thanks. I'll order the hose today. I did check the elbow for signs of rust and/or weakness. If I run my finger up inside the elbow it feels rough as a result of what I assume is corrosion. However, it appears to be strong so, I think I'm OK for the time being.

I really like what you did to your electrical setup. If you have anything (parts list, schematic, lessons learned, etc.) you could share, I'd love to try and duplicate what you have done. I'm no master electrician but, I did train and start my career as one. I was all set to start my apprenticeship when the telephone company called and offered me a job. As an electrician I'd be working on 110, 220, 440 volts vs. -48V with the Telco. Being the chicken that I am, I opted for the lower voltages.

Steve: Yep, we sure do. It's kind of amazing how a mutual interest in an "old" boat can garnish some much support. As I said earlier, there's no way I would attempt this project without this board and the help from guys like you.

[kerrye]

I'd pull a sample from the tank and see what it looks like. I added a primer bulb between the tank and the filter so was able to remove the line from filter to engine and pump out a bottle full for examination. Mine had fungi but it was at leas 8 yrs old and could easily have been 10 yrs old. I've got a post on here about how I pumped my tank out with a 12 volt diesel pump.

[WillieC]

Ray
Never, ever reply or quick reply directly. Use your word program on your computer then copy it. I just lost, yet another, massive draft to Stxray. I got distracted looking for a wiring diagram, without saving my draft. Why? Because Bill Gates has taught us that our computers do that automagically! I'll stop now.
Ray, let me summarize.
1. Read and study the link I sent you. This is basically a one-battery system with a truly isolated back-up. Not fancy, but very smart. You will not be stranded with a dead battery using this.
2. I spent most of my working career in COs, replacing/upgrading gensets throughout Oregon.
3. This wiring diagram explains the picture I posted earlier. You can see what I chose to switch and what is live from the two battery buses. The echo charger is a gem. Hopefully it works in the long haul.
4. The exhaust elbow is a pretty rough casting inside. Mine started weeping directly through the side, just little streaks. Keep an eye on it. They don't last long in saltwater.

More to follow, maybe I should start a whole new topic. We shall see.

Boat, electrical diagram (1).pdf

[DesertAlbin736]

Here's a wiring diagram for how I did my re-wire project, converting from a standard 3 post "Battery 1 - Battery 2 - Both" main switch to a Blue Sea Systems 4 post On-Off switch that always keeps house bank separated from start battery and uses a SI-ACR relay to connect both for charging only when the engine is running & senses alternator charging voltage. The switch does have an emergency manual override position that can force both banks to cross connect. I incorporated an on-off switch for the 20 watt solar panel on the roof so I can switch it out of the system when it's not needed. The solar panel controller allocates charging current 60% to house bank & 40% to start battery & maintains a float voltage of 13.4 V for the AGM batteries when they're topped off.

add a battery wiring diagram edit.jpg

I changed out the old analog on board charger to a ProNautic 12-15P charger, with output wired direct to each battery separately, as seen here mounted on the bulkhead below the helm station along with the AC panel & solar panel charge controller.

DSCN3410 (1280x960).jpg

I got the optional digital monitoring meter that goes with the solar controller which monitors the solar panel output plus actual, minimum, and maximum voltage on both banks plus total amp hours

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