A27- Head modification

[sail149]

JT
Re the hull to deck
It's approx the 'd' but with the worst possible option for strength.
I sketched this out a while ago and included the stress cracks it creates
The small toerail is not filled in so this area acts as a hinge and flex point and weakness
It allows the 'sealed' hull to deck lips to leak and whole structure to move.
Where possible I have started filling the toerail from the underside with hard filler......
Maybe they improved the design on Later boats or just the ones not molded on a Friday/ Monday.....
Warren

[JT48348]

Ladies and Gentlemen: Gaze with envy at my new shower pan liner. It just arrived today! Oh yes, its 20.5" x 36". That's right, thirty-six inches of pure shower heaven on an Albin 27 FC. I had to purchase it and have it on hand to begin the floor work and bulkhead patterning that will begin once the snow melts.

I can only imagine the orgy of spaciousness and convenience that awaits in my oasis of a head. The dream is alive!

[don123]

Beautiful!!

Don

[JT48348]

Let me get your opinions on this:

I think my next big step is I need to build up the floor of the head, where I cut away the liner cabinets, etc. I am thinking of a grid system. I'm thinking the best way to do this is some supports and cross members, to get from the bilge/hull up to floor level. Something like a grid, under the existing floor liner, across the opening that was cut away. Once the grid is in place, I will be able to put in decking, or whatever, and patch the floor, at least to the edge of the hull curve, where new cabinets will go.

This is a poor example, but I couldn't find a very good pictures from the internet



I would tab the grid system into the bilge with fiberglass fillets or glass tabbing. Its not far, maybe 5" max in height, probably spans 3ft. Porbably start with some type of springers, that fit together. Dry fit the pieces, then mix up a batch of thinkened resin mush, place them. Then tab them in with fabric. They would basically support the floor for the hole and the surrounding area. I was originally thinking of using G-10 resin board, or even divincyl or airex foam but its expensive. So I'm considering using some scrap marine plywood, encapsulating in fiberglass resin, and using that instead. Thoughts? Should I just eat the cost? Open to suggestions on what should I use and how would I construct this.

[don123]

I've done what you're suggesting a couple of times before - Using marine ply soaked in epoxy. No problem. Cut the ply carefully to fit and then soak it in epoxy on all sides with a double dose on the raw edges. Let it set up and double check the fit it to the hull. Mark both sides of the hull with a felt tip pen so you can get it back in the correct place when you make the final assembly. Glue it to the hull using a mixture of epoxy and filler (collodial silica or microballons) to a creamy paste about the thickness of mayonnaise and fit it to the hull between your lines. Smear the excess filler on both sides with your finger into a fillet and let it set up. Then go back with a 3 inch fiberglass tape and tab it to the hull on both sides

Don

[JT48348]

Don: right this sounds like what i'm thinking. I will take some pictures as I dry fit the pieces and let you know
Thanks

[JT48348]

UPDATE:
Slow crawl waiting for the coosa board to arrive for the cabin/port refit. Then will start on the bathroom floor and bulkheads.

Have been redoing all the interior woodwork.

[JT48348]

Little side project. Replacing the moldy cane inserts to the cabinet hatches for the galley and anchor locker. I've got a French theme going on, mixed with an industrial work boat look. (Close your eyes and imagine it )

I decided to replace the inserts with a faux metal look. This is a pvc product made by Fasade. Comes in a variety of styles and finishes. I like the brushed nickel. But the aluminum, brushed alum, and galvanized looks are also very real looking. I used this once before as a kitchen backsplash in my houseboat and always got compliments. I plan to use it again in the kitchen, and maybe the entire head for that USS Destroyer look.

[don123]

If you were closer, I'd be dropping a BUNCH of pieces by your house for you to rework for my boat!

Don

[JT48348]

With the portholes done, its finally time for some Head Action.

Step one: patch the hole in the floor from where I cut the fwd cabin bench out of the pan liner, and brace the floor with some modified stringers. Spent the day butting patterns and coosa board. I think the floor will firm up nicely. Didn't get to installing the pieces yet, so no photos yet.

Then moved on to a New Improved Mockup to see what the head and bulkheads might look like. I brought the new shower pan to the boat as well as an old marine head I had just to see what things will look like. I'm looking into a sink that will fit along the wall or int he corner. Haven't exactly decides where it will go. Still moving things around, but you can see where this is going.

After I get the floor pieces in, I will be working on the bulkhead mockup, and then some cabinet/shelf/counter ideas. I need to get some pink insulation to use as templates/patterns.

[JT48348]

Ideas for the head laypout: version 3

Sink: 3.5" deep, 15 x 15" acrylic, fiberglass reinforced


The question is conceptually- how to tie the sink counter, which is below the curve of the cabin top where the portholes are, to the pan liner which supports the shower pan. I messed around with quasi-cabinets, open shelving, and ended up selttling on what I call the "Shaving Step." The Shaving Step is the step where one can sit to shave their legs and still be in the boat shower.

One thing I learned, not first hand of course, from living on a boat four years is its PITA to shave your legs in a tiny euro-boat-shower. I've been informed I'm pretty clever if I can build a stand alone shower in a head on a 27' boat, but I'd be a genius if I can figure out a way to make it comfortable for one to shave their legs in said shower.

This may be an absolutely retarded idea. But its the best I've got right now.

[Jay Knoll]

Looking at your drawing, I'm wondering, is the shower pan below the waterline? If it is, then that thru hull is going to give you some interesting times!

[JT48348]

I'm wondering, is the shower pan below the waterline? If it is, then that thru hull is going to give you some interesting times!

Negative. The drawing is not to scale and maybe a little confusing sorry. There is no thru hull below waterline I'm using same thru hulls as were originally installed. Which means it's an above waterline one. The shower drain gets plumbed to a shower sump pump then to thru hull for over board discharge. Pump is activated by switch.

The beauty of this system is you pump the shower drain dry after each use reducing any standing water etc

[JT48348]

Stringers glued in place. I will tab the coosa board with fiberglass and I have a piece to cover the whole in the floor.

[JT48348]

Building bulkhead patterns for the head takes a little bit of time. Most patterns took two tries. The first go around is rough pattern usually derived from an old bulkhead. It doesn't matter if it fits very well. I used cardboard scraps taped to the rough pattern to get more details in corners and along curves.

I made my patterns out of 1/2" thick pink foam insulation which runs about $12/sheet. It took about 6 sheets to do all the op attend with plenty left over.

The first pattern is then transferred to a 2nd template. The second template should fit as flush as possible against all curves etc. The second pattern can also be adjusted and will be transferred to the coosa board.

The new head feels cavernous. Because the toilet faces the shower, there's no more claustrophobia being wedged between the sink and bulkhead in a corner.

There's room for a 15" square sink, centered on the counter.

The big challenge was configuring the door. I originally planned for a pocket door. But my initial mock up had the door opening at just 17" wide. I opted to push back the forward bulkhead and gained a door opening of 20". By having the door swing open against the shower, no more need for a pocket door.