Stuffing Gland Nut Spanner Needed

[smacksman]

At last I'm on board 'Free State' in Charleston SC. An Albin27 aft cabin.
I ran the 4D61 Lehman which started the first turn. Smoked a bit then fine when warmed up.
The result was a dripping stern gland. What a pig of a job to get at!
No dedicated spanner on board so any ideas on what to use?
It is about 2.5" over the flats and can only be about 6" long to fit in the gap.
I need to act quickly as the auto bilge pump is coping ok but I don't trust them to work forever.

[JT48348]

Not sure the exact space ur playing in. But here's an idea.

This may ruin your nut but have u considered a long screw driver or even a tire iron or something like that. Use a hammer to drive the screwdriver against the flats thereby causing the nut to turn.
You probably don't need to go very far.

[mkh8911]

Go to your local Ace Hardware and pick up an adjustable wrench for a water heater element. It looks like a small adjustable (crescent) type wrench with two prongs about 3 inches long that is adjustable to fit a packing nut. Ace is where I got mine. I think its called a sink wrench.

[smacksman]

Thanks mkh. If I saw the handle off to 5" it may well do the trick.

I made a sketch of the problem -



which shows the water cooled stuffing gland is about 10" recessed under the fuel tank platform and less than 6" to swing the spanner.
Also not much room for a 6 foot/210lb/70+ man!!....



I thought a clamp might do it but one size was too big ....



and the other too small ...



I was not too sure if the gland nut had a locking nut but this close-up seems to show it is all solid ...



unless another member can tell me otherwise.

A view of the area ...




I'll post my next try and hope the bilge pump keeps working.

[mkh8911]

I doubt you would have to saw it off. Its only about 8 inches long. You can buy one for under $10. It's kind of a junky wrench but on my boat I only use it for one thing and it works for that. I'm sure there is an Ace Hardware near you. Give it a try.....

[mkh8911]

Its not solid. I know it looks solid but its not. The rear nut is the stop nut. loosen the back nut, tighten the front nut, then tighten the stop nut. You might need 2 sink wrenches.

[smacksman]

I went to Ace in Charleston and they had no idea about sink wrench or anything that looked like the wrench above. Must be a local thing.
So went back to Harbor Freight - again - and bought a 14" pipe wrench which opened the jaws enough to handle 2.5"
I tried it but it was too long so cut it to about 5" to the center of the jaws.



I then used the sawn off part of the handle as a hammer and eventually slackened off the aft locking nut.
I was able to tighten the fore nut of the stuffing gland by hand and nipped it up till the dripping just stopped.
Turned the shaft by hand and it was tighter but still turned ok.
Tighten up the locking nut.

Job done!

[Sprig1]

Congratulations know on to the next project. When do you think you will be underway?

[smacksman]

Hi Sprig,

I managed to find Machinist Inc. in Charleston who are prepared to braze the air bleed nipple back on to the oil cooler so if all goes well that should be back on the engine next week.
All the bunk cushions have been laundered and Tricia has sewn new backs to those cushion covers that needed them.
As I found bits of impeller in the oil cooler I need to check the raw water pump impeller.
One of the hinges on the forehatch needs re-fixing.
I want to make bug screens and clear plasic side screens for the cockpit. When it is hot I will be sleeping in the cockpit.
I would like to fit a raw water filter.
My Garmin GPS Map is too old to get charts so I must upgrade.
I have bought four feet of rub rail and insert to fit where missing on the port side.
Fit a mount on the pulpit rail to stow the outboard.
Buy a bicycle and stow by the pulpit.
Make a fender board to lie against piles. Buy more fenders.
Fit two 12v sockets for charging laptop/phones/etc.
Take the batteries off the mains charger and check if they hold a charge. Replace?
Replace fire extinguishers. Replace flares.
Fit eye bolts to transom to attach lifting lines for the inflatable.
Buy a kedge anchor; chain and line. Check bitter end of bow anchor line is attached to boat.
Haul out and clean hull and check prop and cutless bearing and rudder bearing. Check skin fittings.
Bottom paint.
Clean and polish topsides. Continue cleaning the boat.
Plus a few others items I can't remember just at the mo.
I plan to be away before the end of April if all goes well.

[Nancy]

That is a long list, Smacks. You're going to be a busy boy. But hey, it's not like you have anything else to do, right?

[Sprig1]

That is a good list. Sounds like you have my boat. Only thing I don't see mentioned is fuel. But you do have it started. You will be working full time so the list should go quick. Good luck

[smacksman]

I know it sounds mad, Nancy, but I actually enjoy boat fitting out!
@sprig1 - 'Free State' has been fitted with a 20 gal day tank with a fuel transfer system from the main 70 gal (nominal) tank. There is no filter between main and day tanks but a filter is fitted between day tank and engine.
This should cover a 10 hour sailing day and then do the fuel transfer at anchor after all the crud in the main tank has settled. Filter glass is clear and clean.
I'll see how this theory works in practice but I really want to avoid running out of day tank fuel as 'sods law' it will happen as I'm coming into a slip with gin palaces to leeward.

[don123]

'Free State' has been fitted with a 20 gal day tank with a fuel transfer system from the main 70 gal (nominal) tank. There is no filter between main and day tanks but a filter is fitted between day tank and engine.

I'd thought about doing the same thing - In fact, I actually have an 11 gallon tank fitted, but I'm using it for my little diesel gen-set

There's not much advantage to using a day tank when all it contains is unfiltered fuel

If I had a day tank for the main engine, I would use a little 5 gph electric fuel pump and continuously pump from the main tank through a Racor 500 filter fitted with a 10 micron element whenever the engine is running. Let the day tank overflow return fuel to the main tank. This would (eventually) clean everything out of the main tank, as all the 'crud' would be in suspension with the fuel sloshing around while underway

My tank was removed and professionally cleaned - I'm going to be very careful what I put in it, mostly filling it from 5 gallon cans dinked from shore. I have a little 5 gph pump which empties the cans through a filter into the main tank. I do have a Racor 500 with a 10 micron element (and plenty of spares) between the main tank and the engine

We'll see how it goes . . . .

Don

[smacksman]

That sounds like an ideal setup Don. The advantage of my day tank is that is easy to check and east to remove and clean. It is in the starboard deck locker. I brought a little Hong Kong fuel pump with me from the UK in case of trouble.
Roger

[Sprig1]

Glad you are getting things done. What do you think about hoses for your motor iam not having much luck finding them. I think iam going to use a variation of your of day tank thanks for the idea. If you get to the northern chesapeake bay give a shout.