Access to Front of Engine

[elad]

Had a mechanic out to look over the Yanmar 6LP-STE in my Albin 28 recently. I am looking to have the valves adjusted and the timing belt inspected. Problem is there is no access to the front of the engine as it is only an inch or so between the enjine and the bulkhead by the fuel tank. The inspection also showed the water pump has been leaking which has corroded the rear starboard area of the block and oil pan. Also have some surface rust on hard to get at areas.

Mechanic has advised pulling the engine. Says I will save money in the end as opposed to trying to make repairs in the cramped engine compartment. Says there is no way to inspect timing belt, period. Has anyone been able to inspect the timing belt with engine in place? Has anyone pulled the engine to facilitate repairs?

Getting at the timing belt is the greatest motivation to pull the engine but I see a lot of other advantages. With engine out I can get all over the it to better iinspect and to make minor repairs to corroded areas and would have a lot better access to clean up and paint the bilge. Anyone else ever considered pulling the engine?

[Tree]

The cambelt is possible to change with the engine in place - it may be a bit awkward but it can be done.

With regards to valves. Previous boats i've had I have always checked the valves every 100 hours - speaking to a yanmar dealer over here his opinion was to leave them alone unless there is a real requirement to adjust them.

From what I understand, they have a huge tolerance on them and rarely need adjusting - I am now on 1580 hours and almost certainly the valves were adjusted 80 hours ago before I bought the boat when the exhaust valve seals were done.

Lee

[carolmarie]

I had the timing belt and valves adjusted last June on my 2001, 28TE; mechanics had no problem with access.
Don.
Carolmarie, 2001, 28TE, 6LP-STE

[jleonard]

It sounds like you have no choice but to pull the engine now that you have ignored the leaking water pump.
That is exactly why many experienced folks refer to the term "marine age" rahter than hours when they talk about engine condition.
Your has a lot of marine age.

I appologize if this sems a little harsh. But this forum is all about learning.
I see many boaing threads where people argue (ok discuss) things like how many hours between oil changes, what specific brand of oil to use, etc.

What most folks often refuse to aknowledge is that a regular GOOD VISUAL INSPECTION is really the most valuable thing an owner can do. You can define regular how you like but I would say at least weekly (if running every day), better if you can do it daily.
Buy a (plastic) mirror and a good flashlight if necessary but look everywhere. Or stick a camera down there and take pictures and review them.
I even watch my bilge water being pumped out to see if there is anything in it. If there is, I inspect.

[Tree]

One thing to check, if you have a had a raw water pump failure make sure the core plug behind the fuel pump doesn't go rusty - I am having the problem of removing it now!

[Paddy]

Had the timing belt replaced and valves adjusted as part of my purchase agreement. The mechanic sent pics as the work was done, I did notice that he removed the engine hatch for better visibility, not sure if that helps you...

[Chris & Dale]

Here's a copy of a small write-up I did last year in response to the same basic question:

Wow, stand on your head? We just had our timing belt changed (and a bunch more stuff), which included removing the water pump to take it back to the shop and rebuild it for leaking seals. No jacking up anything or head standing. If you have leakage, make sure they get into the timing belt area to check for corrosion. Ours was pretty nasty, but they did a great job of cleaning & painting....looks like new! Steel Hers is a 1999 engine box. The only thing we had to do was remove the engine box cover (pain in the butt!). Job was done in the water at our slip. I used the local MackBoring and they were great! I'd get a 2nd opinion if I was you. If you have a MackBoring near you, I'd certainly recommend them. Good Luck!

Once you take the engine cover off it's tight, but it can be done for sure. As to the when, your owners manual will dictate that. For example, the timing belt every 1250 hours (if memory serves me well). Had a retired diesel mechanic who now cruises on a 55' yacht tell me point blank...follow the Yanmar Manual and you can't go wrong!!!

There is a ton of info on this site about this very subject. Good Luck!

[whwells]

WHEN TO CHANGE THE TIMING BELT? The manual as I recall says 1250 hours or 6 years whichever occurs first. Nibbles had only 400 approp. hours this time last year. However, I had both engine timing belts changed as they were beyond the 6 years. The alternative is you might see it break or fail and then the engine will be a basket of parts and thousands of dollars at issue. Not for me.
whwells "Howard"
2006 35te Sportfisher/Flybride Conv.
2004 Osprey Pilothouse 22

[Rybo78]

I pulled mine this year. In my case it was dictated by the need to drop the oil pan... Since it was already I then decided to do the timing belt. The belt took only 45 minutes. The position of the engines in these boats turns an ordinarily arduous job into a straight forward procedure. In addition to the advantage of terrific access and efficient labor for the engine, the decision to pull will also present the opportunity to rework your shaft log, might as well pull the shaft and inspect it, replace your cutlass bearings, rework your rudder (at least for me since we dropped the rudder to pull the shaft although the shaft WILL come out w out this step, clean and paint your bilges, while in the bilge you may start to question various aspects of your fuel tank such as why it fills so slow which leads to pulling up the aft deck for a visual and replacing the fuel fill hose, with all of this up your now exposed to the entire lazzarette you may as well prep and paint back there, add some LED underwater lights first, and before you get it all looking too pretty might as well rebuild your intake strainer and prep and paint all the bronze before reinstalling. With your bilges looking so fresh you undoubtedly realize that your fuel tank MUST match, so prep and paint that as well. If you're ever going to consider adding rod holders to the transom may as well get those in before the deck goes back down. Get the ones with nipples and plumb them into your common drains so that rain water doesn't drain into your bilge.

Wait, you only wanted to change the timing belt right.... Cheaper to do it in the boat.

R

[Tree]

I pulled mine this year. In my case it was dictated by the need to drop the oil pan... Since it was already I then decided to do the timing belt. The belt took only 45 minutes. The position of the engines in these boats turns an ordinarily arduous job into a straight forward procedure. In addition to the advantage of terrific access and efficient labor for the engine, the decision to pull will also present the opportunity to rework your shaft log, might as well pull the shaft and inspect it, replace your cutlass bearings, rework your rudder (at least for me since we dropped the rudder to pull the shaft although the shaft WILL come out w out this step, clean and paint your bilges, while in the bilge you may start to question various aspects of your fuel tank such as why it fills so slow which leads to pulling up the aft deck for a visual and replacing the fuel fill hose, with all of this up your now exposed to the entire lazzarette you may as well prep and paint back there, add some LED underwater lights first, and before you get it all looking too pretty might as well rebuild your intake strainer and prep and paint all the bronze before reinstalling. With your bilges looking so fresh you undoubtedly realize that your fuel tank MUST match, so prep and paint that as well. If you're ever going to consider adding rod holders to the transom may as well get those in before the deck goes back down. Get the ones with nipples and plumb them into your common drains so that rain water doesn't drain into your bilge.

Wait, you only wanted to change the timing belt right.... Cheaper to do it in the boat.

R

That sounds the job I'm doing just to replace the core plug thats failed.

Remove core plug, have three attempts at fitting a new one and give up - pull engine as core plug is behind the fuel pump - remove engine then remove fuel pump - remove failed core plug then drain the engine of all fluids and tip it upside down to drill and tap a 3/4" UNF thread and fit a plug with dowty seal - core plug issue sorted - inspect engine to find that only 2 of the four bolts holding the crankshaft pulley on are any good. Remove broken bolts, pull the crankshaft oil seal and replace. In the mean time the boat is out of the water, notice galvanic corrosion on the propeller and have propeller repaired, replace both cutlass bearings on shaft and rudder which means pulling the entire prop shaft and dropping the rudder. Pressure wash bilge to make it look brand new again and antifoul the hull. Fit new fishfinder.

Fit new battery as the start battery is dead.

Needle gun the engine to remove all traces of corrosion and rust - prime in zinc and fresh coat of paint making it look new - refit fuel pump once back from the test house with the injectors as we had them all recalibrated. Run engine on a test bench to check for leaks - remove coolers and clean then test again.

Refit engine, shaft rudder and propeller - fit new goretex stern gland packing on the rudder and realign.

Reseal the leaking transducer from other fishfinder and fit earth straps to that and the engine to stop galvanic corrosion.

Wash and wax hull and fit new fresh anodes.

Splash?

I'm up to the test engine bit - no doubt there is something i've missed.

Or you could fit the cambelt in the boat