Blue Hull Waxing Revisited

[zinbaad]

It's getting close to prep time and I am a bit confused on the best type of wax to apply to the Blue hull. Last eason the yard I had work done at buffed & waxed the hull which seem to stand up the whole season.
Mid summer the stern started looking real cloudy & chalky so I tried a Miquires compound & wax. It seemed to last only 2 months before the cloudyness reappeared.
Collinate?
Rejex?
3m?

[Cape Codder]

zinbaad,
I think we'll hear lots of opinions.
Personally, I have used Collinite products for years on all my Boston Whalers....but they weren't blue.
I think that Fleetwax 885 is fantastic. On my 28 TE I used 3M Scotchguard Boat Wax w/ UV inhibitors in the 2008 season with pretty good results. although the prep before applying was only a B++
Prep for 2009 was a solid A, and I used Collinite 885 that looked awesome until mid-August, then began to fade, and by late October, some definite faded areas and a bit chalky on those areas.

However, here is my 2010 plan.
Highspeed buffing with 3M compound, and quick buff with Finesse-it to give a smooth base. Achieving no fading areas. A+
Then a minimum of 3 coats of 3M Scotchguard Boat Wax with UV inhibitors, with at least a day between coats. This stuff goes on like butter....very easy.
This is for the blue hull , and 2 coats of 3M on all white areas.
I still think it's the sun, sun, sun that is causing the problem. UV inhibitors should do the trick.........they work on my skin!


If I am not thrilled with the 2010 performance......I'm trying rejex in 2011

[Veebyes2]

As can be seen from Cape Codder's methods, there is NO esy one step method. No magic product, despite the claims on the bottles.

As pretty as the dark hulls are, they are a royal PIA to maintain. I don't have a dark hull & I would never own one. I do have a broad teal stripe that fades much faster than the off white of the rest of the boat.

My method is multi stage & labour intensive too. Generally the boat is in good shape for its 14 years so I start with 3M cleaner wax to remove the light oxidation each spring. Within a few days I follow that with Mequires Flagship wax. It stands up pretty good to Bermudas salt & sun for at least 4 months before the teal band starts to go.

[Marcy K]

Hi,

I agree that there are many methods and that a dark hull is probably the toughest to maintain over time. We use the 3 Collinites mixed together - 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 and apply to a clean hull with a buffer and then wipe immediately - I follow Ron with the wiping rags - we do this 2X and the hull on our A27 stayed with that fantastic "wet look" all season. we intend to do the same with our new to us A 34 this spring. Learned this from 2 different really good boatyards - it is the only way they do it. Marcy

[special k]

can rejex be effective if applied over wax??

[Brandy1937]

It's getting close to prep time and I am a bit confused on the best type of wax to apply to the Blue hull. Last eason the yard I had work done at buffed & waxed the hull which seem to stand up the whole season.
Mid summer the stern started looking real cloudy & chalky so I tried a Miquires compound & wax. It seemed to last only 2 months before the cloudyness reappeared.
Collinate?
Rejex?
3m?

Brandy 1937 This is my nickle's worth. Unless you're madly in love with waxing and extra work on a boat and believe me I've had that experience.
Once I sold my boat,an older Fiberform(and ,yes this was years ago)to a boater who told me I wouldn't recognize the boat the next time I see it .
Man, was he ever right. The boat looked like it just came out of the mould. His secret was to remove all the dirt and grime,buff but do not wax.
Then he shot it with clear coat. The boat was absolutely beautiful just like bran new.He said he never waxed the boat again. "How long did it last?'
I don't know, but look around,every car, motor home,and just about everything is clear coated.
I'm not suggesting "you" do it but the next time I have to do this, I'm going clear coat. I have better things to do.
Good luck and happy boating
Larry B

[zinbaad]

I guess my biggest concern is in the the wax or polymer itself & how the salt & sun effects its oxydation in only 2 months. . For the most part port & starboard look good. With the way the wax reacted on the stern I would be better of just washing it and leave it alone .

[jcollins]

The first thread of the 2010 season about waxing. It gives me hope that spring is in sight!
I finally had Afterglow wet-sanded last season. I was told to rewax with Collinite every 3-4 months or the oxidation would return. So, I did. In July and September and then shrinkwraped to the water line. I'm happy to report the black hull looks as good now as it did last March. Here is the thread from last year.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2499&hilit=wet+sand

[saltshaker28]

Zinbad if you don't mind the work wetsand the hull with #800 wet sandpaper then use 3m superduty compound with a high speed machine and then apply 3 coats of Collinite she should hold up for at least 4 months and when you haul her she won't look bad at all

[zinbaad]

Wow John after seeing the pics of Afterglow I know there is hope. Collinite Fleet Paste along with a 3 m prep seems like the way to go. And 5 days of massage therapy after its done..
Going to prep for "Propspeed" on the rudders, fittings and maybe the trim tabs before the wax job. Praying for good weather so I can drop in the water 2nd week in April this year. Had the propellers tuned and propscanned just have to get down to pick them up.
Damn, Boatzincs.com is so fast on their deliveries.
Hold on,,,,, I think I see the sun.... sorry that was the snow clouds coming back tonight

[NJRobert]

Wow! All that work Bob does is making me tired I agree with him that the Collinite is the best. In fact I use the paste wax and apply it by hand. Prior to that, I first wash the hull and then apply a coat of 3M cleaner wax, buffed on and then buffed off.

[maineman]

Hi, Zinbaad~
I also have a "Flag Blue" hull on my 28TE. I have tried compounding and waxing with a number of different products, but it always re-oxidizes and looks chalky by the end of the season. Would love to find a "miracle-in-a-bottle", but I think it may be a fool's errand. Two seasons ago, I tried "Poliglow" (www.poliglow-int.com). Applied it after aggressively removing all oxidation and using their prep product. The hull looked terrific - shiny, "wet" - and it was pretty easy to apply. The application was pretty easy and some initial streakiness resolved itself fairly well. The problem I had with it, however, was that the polymer glaze didn't seem able to stand up to any physical wear. Every time my 13' Whaler touched the side of the hull, it left a visible rub mark. Not acceptable. Last year, I tried NewGlass II (www.newglass2.com) - a product similar to PoliGlow, but two other boats in our boatyard had used NewGlass and raved about it. (nothing like a couple of raving boat-owners to inspire confidence!) Like the PoliGlow, it was easy to apply and did a beautiful job of making the hull look shiny and "wet". It was less streaky after application (maybe I've just gotten better at applying this kind of stuff over time) and seemed far less susceptible to rub marks and wear. The boat looked almost as good at the end of the season as it did at launch. Washing with mild soap was all that was required throughout the season and I plan to reapply a coat or two of the NewGlass II again this Spring. I'll let you know if I remain as satisfied at the end of this coming season.

maineman
1996 Albin 28TE "KTQ"

[joe.baar]

Our 1995 28TE has a dark blue hull which was apparently Awlgripped before original delivery. Awlgrip is the final answer for dark hulls or anything else. You could even choose that pumpkin orange I think Geri Garcia did for the Hallowe'en AOG header we see every year. I know it's expensive but all I do each haulout is use a soft brush with soap and fresh water and it looks like new. Maybe I'm just not very picky about the finish, who knows? But, I spend more time scrubbing the damned moss off the rub rail - this is the Great Pacific Northwest after all. Awlgrip is subject to marks from bumping things and those require careful prep and a spray gun to fix, but eventually you get better at manuevering. If you figure the value of your time scrubbing, sanding, waxing and buffing during several seasons you will spend the big bucks for Awlgrip.

I am really impressed with the idea of clear coat. If I thought it would protect against marking I'd be inclined to try it - but I don't think it'll do that.

[Cape Codder]

OK.....the REJEX test is on!
I've had water spots in or on my gelcoat since I bought the boat in 2006, could never get rid of them completely until this year.
Porta-cable random orbit buffer and BUFF MAGIC did the trick. No more oxidation or water spots.
Then I've applied 3 coats of REJEX.
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!

If this lasts through October......I'll never go back to wax.
Keep you all posted.

[Jforesta]

Bob. Did the Rejex hold up?
Joe