Hull oxidation

[JoeH]

I'm considering using "Polyglow" to restore the color (dark blue) on the hull of my 2004 28TE. Without having to use a lot of "elbow grease" and having to wet sand I'm considering the Polyglow product. Has anybody had experience with this product and if so what are the Pros and Cons. I saw it advertised and demonstrated on "Ship Shape TV'. and looke like exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks in advance.

Joe H Scituate, MA

[RWP]

I used this product about 15 years ago on the white hull of an old Marine Trader that I owned...and it worked out very well. My standard tends to be "better than it was," not perfect, so I'm not sure it was as good as a thorough polishing would have been...but it was relatively easy to apply and gave the hull a nice sheen. I think I reapplied it every other year or so. Two caveats: I sold that boat about six years ago, so I don't know how well it held up over time. Also...this boat was used exclusively in fresh water, so I cannot attest to its effectiveness in salt water.

Good luck!

[pcthornton]

Last spring, I used Color Restorer by Armada on my 02 dark green 28 TE. The key is to go from side to side in 2 foot sections spreading it and then buff it off immediately with a power buffer. The hull came out like new. It eliminated 99% of the oxidation with the 1% being a couple of stubborn spots that were still much better than when I started. On top of this process, I then did two applications of Collinite's No. 885 Fleetwax. This has held for most of the season, although the port side of the boat, which faces south in my slip, is now more re-oxidized than the starboard side.

[RicM]

If you search this forum you will find EXTENSIVE discussion on the topic of oxidation and various products to remove it and to keep it at bay. I have had good luck this year with Rejex, another polymer type product that used to be hard to find but is now available in True Value hardware stores. The sad part is that their is NO WAY to remove oxidation without elbow grease unless you hire someone else's elbow. It's one of the things they don't tell you when you buy any boat with a blue hull, it's going to fade. The good thing about Albins is that they usually put the gelcoat on pretty thick, so you have some to give. Check for scratches on your boat and see if any go down to the white and see how thick it is. That's what you have to work with. Each spring I have done an extensive compounding with 3M Heavy cut and each year it has gotten better. Now after 3 seasons it still looks good in September so I guess I finally got ahead of it. This is why you see fewer dark hulled boats in FL and lots of boats that are covered.

[Cape Codder]

Oh...those blue hulls!
Last year, compounded with 3M compound, 3M Finesse-it II, and then 2 coats of 3M's ScotchGuard Boat Wax with UV inhibitors.
That process did a good job for the entire season, but still some oxidation by October.

This year, one change....instead of 3M Boat Wax, I went back to my all-time favorite, Collinite 885 paste. It looked awesome, BUT, it has begun to fade in early September. In my opinion, it DID NOT hold as well as the 3M ScotchGuard for the entire season.

Rejex is certainly intriguing. The Rejex ad claims that even waterline scum wipes off...because nothing sticks. Hmmmmm............. interesting.
I don't have a problem with waterline scum on the Albin, but I sure do with my 13' Boston Whaler.

For 2010, on the Albin, I believe I'll go back to 3M ScotchGuard with the UV screen, and go with Rejex on the outside of the 13' Whaler. If the Whaler look good and holds all season (1987 hull), and the scum really does wipe off....all season....I'm sold. And the following year I would be tempted to go Rejex for everything.
In any event.......there will be lots of buffing come Spring 2010!!

[Yearwood]

Have a 2001 blue hull 28 foot TE which had the usual oxidation/fading. Each year we would compound and wax bringing it back fine. It would last for perhaps two months. One side of the hull (more exposed to the sun) was always worse than the other. Two years ago began to get quotes for recoating the hull, but again were impressed with the initial compounding and waxing. It did not last. This year we tried polyglow. We wet sanded. Our surface preparation was not as good as it should have been in at least one area. We put six coats on the hull and that part took about 10 minutes per coat with the simple applicator. To date the hull has held up remarkably well and the hull looks better than it has looked in years. We certainly intend to use it again next year and will address the area where our surface preparation was lacking. The kit we purchased probably has enough material for next year's application. I see no down side to trying this or similar products. As with any coating the better the surface preparation the better the result.