Forward bilge pump on 28TE

[NJRobert]

I am in need of some help, specific to the forward bilge pump. I have a 2007 28TE and the pump sits on a sort of platform ( I wish I knew how to upload pics here), directly forward of the shower pump. I have three bilge switches on my panel, for forward, center, and aft.

When I turn them on, I only hear the morot of the center and aft pumps. The pump appears to be housed in a large red cannister and I'm not sure how to "test" it to see if it actually works. I do not hear any motor when I manually turn it on. I'm also wondering as to why Albin set the pump on this platform?

[Yearwood]

I am in need of some help, specific to the forward bilge pump. I have a 2007 28TE and the pump sits on a sort of platform ( I wish I knew how to upload pics here), directly forward of the shower pump. I have three bilge switches on my panel, for forward, center, and aft.

When I turn them on, I only hear the morot of the center and aft pumps. The pump appears to be housed in a large red cannister and I'm not sure how to "test" it to see if it actually works. I do not hear any motor when I manually turn it on. I'm also wondering as to why Albin set the pump on this platform?

The pump should have a float switch. Try lifting the float switch to see if the motor runs. If it does not I'd suggest removing the pump and perhaps replacing it.

[Mariner]

For instructions on uploading pictures, check out this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=158

There are two different methods described there, either of which would work for this application.

[furball]

Don, my float switch is located on the starboard side of the pump, attached to the base of the pump. The float itself is inside and there is a small plastic piece on the back side that allows you to move the float inside, up and down. Both my front or rear float switches failed to work this spring when I launched. Both pumps still worked when turned on at the helm. Helm switch bypasses the float switch. If you lift the float switch and the pump runs, check the switch and connection at the helm for voltage. If the pump doesn't run when you lift the float, jump the switch and see if the pump runs, if not, replace the pump.
I replaced both my switches with the new Johnson float switches. No moving parts, just two small dots on the front you touch in order to test the switch. Last weekend after Hanna blew thru; I had finished cleaning up and was closing up the cabin when I heard the forward bilge pump running. I had checked the level earlier and it surprised me to hear it, didn't think there was enough water to activate the switch. I opened the bilge, pumps running but not enough water to pickup, just spitting and slurping from the pump. The switch should have shut the pump down at that level. I reached down to touch the new switch and it was very hot, hot enough that when I removed it, the plastic had softened to the point that it had the impression of the circuit board in it. After letting it cool off, the switch would turn on but when it was to shut off, the pump would only slowdown, not stop. The switch was evidently not opening completely and creating a low voltage short. I keep thinking how lucky I was to find it as it was really, very hot. I don't know if the breaker would have eventually tripped or not.
I think I'll replace both again this winter with a different type. Shame, I had high hopes for a switch without moving parts, my floats are always a pain.
Good luck
John

[NJRobert]

On the side of the base of the forward pump, is a small black box affixed to the floor, with two screws. I do not see or feel anything that remotely resembles a float. A loose wire was the problem regarding powering the pump, as it works again with the helm switch. However, I cannot figure out how to activate the float. Anyway, I get water going in below it. Only way to remove it, is to shop-vac it out.

[jcollins]

NJRobert,
A couple of thoughts...

What is the make/model of your pump? Run a search and see if the float is built in.
Am I understanding you correctly? You have always had to manually turn the pump on?

Perhaps there never was an external float installed? You can always add one.

Or, as other have suggested, replace the pump with one that has a built in float. I have tried the floatless pumps over the years. Never did work out well.

Speaking of mounting pumps...has anyone ever tried using 5200 or some like product to "glue" the pump in place? In retrospect it could be a problem replacing it.

[RobS]

Is this what you have:



http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... assNum=213

[Don from Mystic]

I have a sump on my old 27 as well. The pump has automatic/manual capabilities as most bilge pumps do. The perch mentioned allows the pump to be mounted level as well as allow for a low area to act as a catch basin for things which could cause the pumpt to clog. I have had good luck with compact Rule Automatic pumps (the ones with an internal float switch NOT the electronic one that constantly cycles and checks for load).The thing I like best about them is by design they will run a few seconds after the pumped area is dry to eliminate excessive back up of water.

[Don from Mystic]

PS I use 5200 to mount pumps.As long as you stick with one model with a detachable base (like the ones I mentioned) you just release the "motor half" and your good to go with cleaning the strainer or replacement

[Mariner]

Years ago I bought one of those hydrostatic bilge pump switches. the problem with it was that it would continue to let the pump run, even if the switch was just wet, not actually submerged. In a dark, damp bilge, it can stay wet for a long time after the rain has passed. The automatic "cycling" pumps are worthless. Good only for things like jet-skis or small boats where the power supply is turned off when the engine isn't running. Float switchs, as annoying as they may be, are still the way to go. Most these days are encased, to prevent it from getting blocked in the open or closed position by floating debris. Not having a visual, my best guess is that the "black box" next do the pump you describe, is probably your float switch. Is it connected to the pump with wires? If you look carefully, there are probably openings on the bottom and top that allow water and air to go in and out. To test it, you can usually use a screwdriver to lever the switch up. Or, if all else fails, just bring out the freshwater hose. I'm sure your bilge could use a bath anyway, right?

[mhanna]

The automatic "cycling" pumps are worthless. Good only for things like jet-skis or small boats where the power supply is turned off when the engine isn't running.

Even though I put one in, I have to agree with Mariner on this. I put one on another boat and it ran the battery down. It works for me now because it is tied to the shower sump switch and gets more water out than the float ( I put a float in first and it shutoff too soon, leaving too much water) and I only turn that on when taking a shower (few times a year) or wish to empty the bilge.

Matt

[RobS]

when taking a shower (few times a year)
Matt

hmm, you may want to re-phrase that one buddy

[jcollins]

when taking a shower (few times a year)
Matt

hmm, you may want to re-phrase that one buddy

I was thinking the same thing. Those New Yorkers are a tough bunch.

[george_h]

Having the forward bilge pump on that platform means the water can get really high before the auto switch kicks in. I added a pump at the bottom of the bilge to keep the levels as low as possible. For pics follow the link below. If the link doesn't work the article is in the TE 26-35 forum currently dated May 28,2007 and titled A28TE/A30FC Forward Bilge Pump.

[url]http://albinowners.net/aog/viewtopic.php?t=785

[george_h]

Having the forward bilge pump on that platform means the water can get really high before the auto switch kicks in. I added a pump at the bottom of the bilge to keep the levels as low as possible. If the link below doesn't work the article is in the TE 26-35 forum dated may 28,2007 titled A28TE/A30FC Forward Bilge Pump.

http://albinowners.net/aog/viewtopic.php?t=785