Albin High temp issue

[DAVEWAXX]

I have recently seen a high temp of 205 on the gauge but no other sings of over heat.

I am flushing the heat exchanger fresh, and buying a new sensor as albin said to but does any one have thes simalar problems???

JP

[jcollins]

JP,
I have the Peninsular. My temp is 200 at WOT. Always has been. I just had the impeller changed and check the raw water strainer on a regular basis. Although I have a thoro-flush system, I only flush once a year. I'm in brackish water.

[DAVEWAXX]

THanks for the reply, Here is what I have found to date.

1. My mech says diesels should not run that hot 160 around there is the right temp.

2. Pennisular said on the pre 1997s the anti freeze had a high silica content and you need to flush the fresh heat exchanger with phosporic aCID and agitate while it is in there( in other words remove it and shake it, this will clean allthe old silca off and it should run super cool. i am waiting for the acid as we speak.

3. Faria gauges are supposed to be the worst and they could be off so a laser heat sensor will tell exactly what temp is and if gauge is no good.

4. Temp sensor may be bad so I am replacning it to.

My engine is a 400ta 280 hp with 480 hours I just hope I did not fry the motor.

I will keep you posted. If you know anything more let me know I could use the help.

JP

[jcollins]

Interesting comments from your mechanic.
I have the 300 HP with 904 hours.
My temps are 150-180 up to 3200. Then 200 from 3200-3600. I have not run the boat at WOT since the impeller change (the old one didn't look that bad). I will do so this weekend and let you know if it's any different.
I have heard others talk about the Faria guages. Like I mentioned, mine has always been this way.

How about some other "Beast" owners out there? What are your temperatures?

[DAVEWAXX]

yeah guys lets hear about the temps so i can get a base line:)

JP

[jleonard]

At 205 your engine should be fine.
You should double check your temps a couple times each season with a temp gun. I replace my gages/sender when the temps vary more than about 10 deg F.
Also I have never found gages to read low...in all my experience they read higher than the temp gun.
Hope this helps.

[TD]

I have never heard of any diesel that is supposed to run at 160 degrees F. I have Cunnins 370hp and I run consistently at 185 to 195. When I bought the boat the surveyor noticed the port engine ran at 200-205. I found that the hose from the heat exchanger to where it dumps into exhaust downstream of the turbo was kinked. I replaced the hose and now both engines run consistently. Not sure what engine you have but I would check with the engine dealer and ask the temperature running question.

[Denis]

I have a 1994 Peninsular 300 HP engine. Reading right out of the Peninsular manual that came with my boat, it says the "coolant temperature should be between 170F and 195F. The pressurized cooling system makes up to 210F allowable for brief (less than 10 minutes) periods."
Then under the spare parts list, it says to use a 160F thermostat #23500081. That being said, my engine runs at 160F at idle and about 155F when under way as read from the gauge on the dash. I have never double checked my temp. readings with a heat gun. Denis

[DAVEWAXX]

Just talked with matt at penn motors

205 deg is BAD.

195 is hot and not good

Temp should be around 170-185. The pre 97 coolant he says is the culprate.

So we gots to get them temps down!! thanks for input.

[Denis]

How does the coolant determine the temp the engine runs at? I was under the impression that was determined by the size and efficancy of the heat exchanger and the temp. of the thermostat. To a slight degree, (no pun intended) I notice that the engine temp. changes a little in the mid-summer when the water is a little warmer, then cools off again in the fall.

[TD]

I am by no means a coolant expert, but I always thought the coolant only changed the boiling point of the fluid. Coolants generally raise the boiling point so that the engine can run hot and more efficient. This is not nessarily true with some new alloy engine materials. Since about 1996 many engines have been putting more and more non-steel or steel alloy materials so the coolant requires additives which are not corrosive.

[jcollins]

So...am I understanding this correctly? Change the coolant and replace the thermostat?

[Denis]

I think the listed pressure of the radiator cap and an increase in pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. I don't think either of these change the temp. the engine runs. The type of coolant may allow it to with-stand an increase in engine temp. before it boils, but I don't think it changes the engine operating temp. Im not any type of expert either, JMHO. Other issues to consider are the pulley ratio of the water pump and how quickly or slowly it circulates the water in the block. Does the coolant remain in the heat exchanger long enough to properly cool, or does it linger too long allowing the water in the block to pick up too much heat and raise the temp. Coolant moving too fast or too slow will cause an increase in temp. The newer coolants allow for a better transfer of heat in the engins we run today, they also make the coolant, wetter, which gives a better transfer. Assuming that the engine water pump, pulley size, heat exchanger size, hoses and radiator cap are all properly sized and are operating as should be, the logical areas to assume a problem are, a partially clogged strainer or raw water inlet, remove and check all coolers such as the transmission cooler, remove and check the heat exchanger, check for partially collapsed hoses on the suction side and change the raw water impeller and thermostat and put in new coolant. If that doesn't fix the problem it can get tricky, good luck.

[DAVEWAXX]

Hey Guys to clarify a little more on this subject,

As I was told back around 1994-97 the coolant makers use a product which put a silacate in the fresh side of the heat exchanger when this came to temp it adheared to the cooling tubes of the exchanger which after a while built up and impeded the flow of water which inturn effected the cooling ablity of the heat exchanger.

So you need to flush the old coolant 1st then remove heat exchanger, use Phosporic acid 50/50 ratio and flush and agitate/ shake while in the unit.

Leave it in there and shake for 10 minutes and this should clean most out as I was told.

There you go.

[SpaceCoaster]

My Albin has a different engine, but I also experienced a sharp rise in operating temp at the start of on one of my outings last year. She normally runs around 185 deg F, but this time shot up to around 210 to 220 when I rev'd up the engine. I knew this was abnormal so I took her back down to idle where the temps were reasonable and headed home.

My first thought was a bad impeller, but after troubleshooting, I found the heat exchanger was gunked up. I had the exchanger removed, then the core was removed and cleaned (soaked) in an acid mix. Sorry, but I don't recall the exact formula my mechanic used. New gaskets were purchased, everything was put back together and now she runs like a champ.

My suggestion is to check the engine manual to see what the maintenance period is for your heat exchanger. If the exchanger is due to be cleaned you might want to get it flushed out. I heard a regular automotive radiator shop can clean it for not a lot of dough.

And finally, I agree with those who say 205 is hot for a diesel. I would feel more comfortable at 185 to 190 as a max cruise temp.