• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.

Yanmar - flushing the enigine? mixing elbows?

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

DrNickS
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
Home Port: Rockport, MA
Location: Rockport, MA
Contact:

Post by DrNickS »

Elizabeth Ann wrote:DrNickS,

Are you talking about the RydLyme? Chief has a Yanmar and he's done it, I'm sure he'll chyme back.

For now I was asking about the fresh water flush....I have the hose adapter too. How have you done the fresh water?

I plan to use the RydLyme in the fall (or next spring) since the boat is in the drink all ready.
Regarding the fresh water flush, I have been doing it for the past three years after every use. The hot sea water evaporates after shut down leaving a very concentrated salt solution in the raw water system. I used to open the top of the sea water strainer and put a garden hose into it, shut the seacock and run fresh water for a few minutes with the engine running. Now I have a custom rig on top of my strainer with a quick release hose fitting. I have been cautioned not to leave the garden hose hooked up under pressure after shutting down the engine, so I have a garden hose Y valve to release pressure after stopping the engine and until I can shut off the hose.

The RydLyme flush procedure is different and can be done while the boat is in the water. If Chief has done this I'm sure many would be interested in his experience.


Cheers and thanks for all your responses,
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
RicM
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1209
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
Location: Wickford RI
Contact:

Fitting

Post by RicM »

Nick:

Where did you get the fitting? Could you post a picture? There was a company that made them, but they stopped production for some reason. Here's some links to discussions on this topic on Boatdiesel.com:

http://boatdiesel.com/BDR/Forums/Thread ... 0177&mc=17

http://boatdiesel.com/BDR/Forums/Thread ... 29011&mc=2
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
DrNickS
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
Home Port: Rockport, MA
Location: Rockport, MA
Contact:

Re: Fitting

Post by DrNickS »

RicM wrote:Nick:

Where did you get the fitting? Could you post a picture? There was a company that made them, but they stopped production for some reason. Here's some links to discussions on this topic on Boatdiesel.com:

http://boatdiesel.com/BDR/Forums/Thread ... 0177&mc=17

http://boatdiesel.com/BDR/Forums/Thread ... 29011&mc=2
Hi RicM,
I am not a member of boatdiesel.com so I cannot see the responses to the original questions. I have been thinking of joining and will sign up ASAP.

I will post photos after the weekend. The rig is a gate valve with a garden hose tread. The strainer top is drilled and tapped to accept an elbow so the valve can lie flat and not hit the deck hatch. After the elbow and valve I attach a Y and the garden hose. The drilling and tapping would have to be done at a machine shop if you do not have the tools. A friend of mine in the tugboat business had his shop do it for me.
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
RicM
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1209
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
Location: Wickford RI
Contact:

Boat Diesel

Post by RicM »

www.boatdiesel.com is worth every penny. I am currently investigating the installation of a pyrometer on my Yanmar 6LP. I never heard of a pyrometer before boatdiesel.com. Here's a synopsis from Tony Athens, the guru of boatdiesel on fresh water flushing.

Response #1 from: Tony Athens [email] Forums Moderator Date: September 02, 2007 - 07:56 AM
Roy,

You need to search the archives as the "PRINCIPLE" of how to do it easily and safely are all there.. Stern drive or ?, does not matter--The idea to to "oversupply" what the engine needs at idle and NEVER shut the intake off. Excess goes out to the ocean.

I typed in "fresh water flush" and my name as author and came up with this post and some other threads on the subject.


There are about 8,700 hours in a year and when you consider that most recreational boats may be gone from the dock well less than 10% of that time, it should be pretty obvious where all the corrosion takes place. "It ain't at sea, it's at the dock.." Why leave salt water in the seawater circuit of the engine???

I've summarized a few postings below on this subject that are in the archives and easy to find w/ the search engine (key word "flush") Also, I've attached a couple of pics showing hook-ups (inside the folder)..

The top of a Groco type strainer is always easy for attaching the fresh water flush hose. Normally, I like to put the "T" between the strainer and the engine as this way, it not only feeds the engine, but back-flushes the strainer after the engine has shut off, as all the water is now passing backwards through the strainer through the bottom of the boat. One of the main things that needs to be done is to make it EASY to accomplish this task as most boat owners don't want to drag a hose into their cabin or engine room. We like to put fittings/attachments for the dock hose on the deck or cap rail for easy hook up. Just about all of the rec. repowers that we do end up with fresh water flushes....

Always leave the seacock open and IF the water flow from the dock is greater than the needs of the engine at an idle (usually is if a good valve/water flow/pressure is at the dock, you have a good hose and 5/8" or bigger plumbing all the way to the "T" in your system,) the engine will only have fresh water in it after a couple of minutes of idling.. Shut off the engine first and the fresh water will just go out the bottom of the boat, as the seacock is STILL open. Since fresh water is lighter than seawater, even after months with the seacock left open, you'll find fresh water still in the system..(I'm not keen on shutting seacocks as my memory is used up)......... I like to put the "T" in between the strainer and the engine pump as this way you are also back-flushing the strainer (a lot) when the engine is off..This type of hook-up requires a few extra fittings and is not always as easy to do.......If the owner makes the flush system easy to use (not having to drag a hose into the main salon) then this type of upgrade to a modern diesel will add years to the life of the entire seawater side of the engine (especially zincs, seawater cooled aftercoolers, etc).. One more little trick to basket strainer longevity is to cut up chunks of your old plate zinc and keep one or two of them in the bottom of your S.S. basket.....

Because the hose connects below the waterline in most cases and is part of the engines "vital" systems, always use high quality hose and fittings coupled w/ some good planning for the install.

Taking this another step in the direction of letting your engines have some time off, (winter, no fish around, vacation, etc), I'd rather let "my" engines sit unused in a warm/clean engine room with fresh water (or coolant in very cold climates) in the sea water circuit for months at a time before I'd go down and try to do a "dockside warm up." I believe in fresh water flushes, block heaters for all applications, regardless of the outside air temperature (I may use a thermostat, low wattage units, or timer in warmer climates) and I don't believe that letting an engine sit unused in the conditions I like to see an engine room detract from its overall life. For engines that I know or feel have not been run for many months/years, I will typically prelube the main oil gallery using one of various techniques. It's real typical in the commercial business I've been involved in to have boats in a fishery where there are 2 week to 6 week closures after 2 to 3 months of basically non-stop work. During the off time, nothing usually transpires besides boat maintenance and when it's time to go fishing again, all they do is turn the key and BANG. Hope[/size] this he[/size]lps .....................Tony
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
Merry Kate
First Mate
First Mate
Posts: 57
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:04 pm
Location: Mason Neck, VA

Post by Merry Kate »

Ric -

I know of at least one company named "thoroflush" that made the modified lids for most common strainers, but I think they're out of business. There are probably others out there.

One could be made with common plumbing fittings if you have the facility to drill a big enough hole through the bronze of your own lid. Or, do like Tony says and just tee into the raw water hose with a female garden hose fitting and ball valve.

I never fresh water flush - one of the few advantages of running in the murky-but-fresh upper Potomac. But as I say, the rydlyme procedure worked wonders for me.

BTW, a pyrometer and boost pressure gage is indispensable for really knowing what's going on in your engine and easy & (relatively) cheap to install.

Ed
RicM
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1209
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
Location: Wickford RI
Contact:

Special

Post by RicM »

Ahhh, an actual post from the most mysterious of Albineers, Señor Harvie. Thoroughflush is indeed gone, as is the majority of small, independent machine shops that might undertake such an endeavour . There is a machinist in residence at Wickford Shipyard though, a true throw back institution. Perhaps I will try him. I have been mainly involved with my electronic command/control makeover this spring. This sounds like a project for next fall, my elbows will be nearing the end of their suggested life, so replacing them and starting afresh with a new flush system would make sense. I really like the idea of a pyrometer and I am actually considering buying a laser tach with an ir sensor. There is a whole subculture of diesel geeks out there I am learning about. It will only to become more extreme as dino fuel becomes a more exotic commodity. I am looking forward to running on used french fry oil. I just did the math and our trip to the Boston Rendezvous (200 nm round trip) will cost somewhere around $700 for fuel alone! I see a flometer in my future as well!
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
DrNickS
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
Home Port: Rockport, MA
Location: Rockport, MA
Contact:

Re: Flushing Fitting Photo Finally

Post by DrNickS »

RicM wrote:Nick:

Where did you get the fitting? Could you post a picture? There was a company that made them, but they stopped production for some reason.
Here is a photo. I leave the Y valve open to divert the pressure between the time I shut off the engine and until I can shut off the hose pressure. If this image is bad just click it or I will post a new one tomorrow.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
User avatar
Elizabeth Ann
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 423
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 5:17 pm
Location: Babylon, NY / Miami, FL

Post by Elizabeth Ann »

Wow! Thank you Folks; this thread has been very informative to me (and others I hope).

It looks like I may have to print this thread up for a more thorough read ;)
DrNickS
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
Home Port: Rockport, MA
Location: Rockport, MA
Contact:

Post by DrNickS »

Merry Kate wrote:
An acid flush is a (very) periodic maintenance procedure to remove any & everything built up in the raw water side.

http://albinowners.net/aog/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
What fittings did you use to step down the hose diameter to accept the small hoses from the freshwater pump and bucket rig you showed in your photo? I bought the RydLyme and am trying to set up a circulating system for my Yanmar.
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
Merry Kate
First Mate
First Mate
Posts: 57
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:04 pm
Location: Mason Neck, VA

Post by Merry Kate »

Sorry Nick - I have'nt checked in for awhile...

I bought some cheap PVC hose barb-to threaded male plumbing adapters at Lowes. I went into the 1.5" raw water hose and I think a 1.25" threaded male fitting fit pretty well. The seals have to be tight or it will leak & not have good suction - all fittings need to be clamped tightly.

I believe I just took a piece of the right size hose into Lowes and found what fit. Like I say, this was the hardest part of the whole deal.

If your heat-x has some hrs on it, you won't be disappointed with the results. Good luck!

Ed
Post Reply

Return to “Albin Maintenance”